Oil pan leaking;front on drivers side, removed & replaced twice..
Removed front end, diff, gaskets, the whole ball of wax. Cleaned, replaced seal, ran a bead as instructed by manufacture installation instructions. The pan still leaking from the front, on the drivers side near the front corner curve of the pan. It is leaking at aprox 1 drip per second when doing a leak inspection. A new seal was placed on both trys and all instructions for placing have been followed.It's Nuts! Thanks for your help...
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Re: Oil pan leaking;front on drivers side, removed &...
Take a very close look check for a crack on the pan.Or the pan is bent.Remove the pan Rub silicone all around it,place the pan down flat on a peice of cardboard.Then lift the pan and check on the cardboard that all the surface has marked it.Good luck
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Do that one or get that done on a lift. If not.... drain the oil & filter, every drop. In a gentle sequence loosen remove every other oil pan bolt . Next loosen, don't remove, the rest of the & slowly take out 1 fm the ft 1 fm the rear, 1 fm the side & keep going until they are all loosen enough to totally remove. The pan may fall by its own weight, if not, a few taps with no bolts will cause it to drop. Work it off around the oil pump & float, remove the gasket when the pan is down clean the engine block of gasket & oil & reinstall the new gasket. I'm not saying your gasket isn't leaking, but I've had many requests to replace pan gaskets & the front or rear seal is leaking. Besides the fact without a lift, power tools & an oil drain, this one is a rough one. Have it Done! Good luck
I just changed my oil pan gasket on my 2001 GMC Yukon Denali. Once all bolts are off the oil pan, the pan and off the block it has no clearance because the differential is in the way. I removed half the diffential since the housing is split in the center. You will see bolts on the differential housing, remove those. But before the diff can come out to make room for the pan to drop you have to remove the axel attached to the diff on the passenger side. Once the axel is off the diff you have room to remove half the diff. Make sure to drain the gear oil first. It take a bit off pulling and wiggling but it will come off. Once that's clear the oil pan is completely free to come out. Hope this helps.
you must unbolt the oil pump pick up in order to remove pan. are you just replacing a gasket due to a leak?? I usually end up dropping the pan at the point where you have it and plutting in the gasket there. Pain in the but but easier than taking the pan down. Make sure you use a rubber gaske t(not cork) and apply a dab of silicone in the corners by the front and rear seals when putting back together.
timing cover is leaking oil betwwen cover and block
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the drive belt(s), fan and fan shroud. If equipped, remove the accessory drive belt pulley.
Remove the vibration damper retaining bolt and washer. Remove the vibration damper using a suitable puller.
Remove the accessory drive brackets attached to the timing cover.
Remove the A/C compressor, if equipped, and alternator bracket from the cylinder head and move to one side.
Remove the oil pan-to-timing case cover bolts and the cover-to-cylinder block bolts.
Remove the timing case cover front seal and gasket from the engine.
Cut off the oil pan side gasket end tabs and oil pan front seal
tabs flush with the front face of the cylinder block. Remove the gasket
Clean the timing case cover, oil pan and cylinder block gasket surfaces.
Remove the crankshaft seal oil seal from the cover by prying it out with a suitable tool.
Install a new seal in the timing cover using a suitable seal installation tool.
Apply sealer to both sides of the replacement cover gasket and
position the gasket on the cylinder block. Cut the end tabs off the
replacement oil pan gasket corresponding to those cut off the original
gasket. Attach the end tabs to the oil pan with sealer.
Coat the front cover seal end tab recesses generously with sealer and position the seal on the timing cover.
Apply engine oil to the seal-oil pan contact surface, then position the cover on the cylinder block.
Insert timing case cover alignment tool J22248 or equivalent, in
the crankshaft opening. Install the cover-to-cylinder block bolts and
tighten them to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Install and tighten the oil
pan-to-cover bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
Remove the cover alignment tool and position a replacement oil
seal on the tool with the seal lip facing outward. Apply a light coat of
sealer to the seal and a light coat of oil to the crankshaft. Install
the seal on the timing cover.
Apply a light film of oil to the vibration damper hub seal
contact surface. Install the vibration damper using a suitable
Do not hammer the damper into place as damage may result to the damper or engine.
Install and tighten the crankshaft vibration damper bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
If equipped, install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
Install the accessory brackets.
Install the fan and fan shroud.
Install the drive belt(s) and adjust to the proper tension.
Unfortunately, the problem isn't as easy to solve as icantry is describing...only because there IS a lot of "frame junk in the way" lol. Removal of the oil pan on this vehicle requires that the front axle assembly be removed from the vehicle, and the engine lifted about 3-4 inches. With the exception of pulling the entire engine out the top (which might be easier), there is no other way to remove the oil pan. Also, the oil pan gasket also serves as a windage tray and must be bolted to the underside of the crank bearing caps before bolting the new pan on. So proper steps:
-remove both front wheel assemblies
-disconnect the lower ball joint and the sway bar link bolts.
-pull C/V shaft assemblies from axle
-remove lower control arm to frame mounting bolts
-disconnect front drive shaft from front diff
-remove left side front
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may
cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make
every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective
gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any
other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used
engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used. (except 2.5 Premier engine)
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the lubrication system for all 2.2L and 2.5L except Premier engines
Fig. Fig. 7: Apply sealant to the ends of the new oil pan end
seals at the junction of the cylinder block pan rail gasket-1988-95 2.2L
and 2.5L except Premier engines
Fig. 8: Clean the gasket mating surface of the oil pan of all old gasket material, dirt, grease or other grime-2.6L engine
Apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, then raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
Drain the engine oil. This would also be a good time to change the oil filter.
Remove the engine-to-transaxle struts, if so equipped. These struts prohibit access to the oil pan mounting bolts.
Remove the torque converter or clutch inspection cover.
Support the oil pan and remove the mounting bolts.
Lower the pan and remove the old gasket, if so equipped.
Clean all gasket surfaces thoroughly.
For 2.6L engines, position a new gasket on the oil pan using a sealer to hold it in place.
1981-87 2.2 and 2.5 Liter engine uses a liquid form-in-place type
gasket. Chrysler Part Number 4205918, or equivalent RTV gasket material
must be used.
For 1981-87 2.2 and 2.5L engines, install new end
seals and apply the form-in-place gasket sealant. The RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead approximately
in. (3mm) in diameter. All mounting holes must be
circled. Uncured RTV may be removed with a rag. The oil pan should be
tightened in place while the RTV is still wet to the touch (within 10
minutes). The usage of a locating dowel is recommended during assembly
to prevent smearing of the material off location. Make sure to apply
sealer where the end seals meet the block.
1988-95 2.2L and 2.5L engines utilize end seals and side gaskets, not liquid gasket as with 1981-87 models.
On 1988-95 2.2L and 2.5L engines, install new end seals and side
gaskets. Apply RTV sealant to the parting lines between the end and side
seals on these engines. If necessary, use a little grease or RTV
sealant to hold the side seals in place.
Tighten the pan bolts in a crisscross fashion, starting from the
center of the oil pan and working toward the ends, to the following
torque values: 2.6L engine-53-61 inch lbs. (5.9-6.8 Nm)
1981-87 2.2L and 2.5L engines-16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm)
1988-95 2.2L and 2.5L engines-M8 bolts, 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm); M6 bolt, 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm)
Allow the oil pan to sit for 15 minutes to ensure that the RTV sealant has completely set.
Install the oil drain plug and a new oil filter, if equipped, then lower the vehicle.
More than likely it would be the front seals, oil pump front shaft seal and gasket ( "o" ring), Cam seal, crank seal one of those. Have to remove timing belt in order to change these seals. I would change out all the seals and put a new timing belt on it. Depending on how many miles you have on your car I would consider a water pump as well because the timing belt also needs to be removed to replace this part. In other words... Costly repair, but instead of replacing the seals and solving the leak and then 2 weeks later the timing belt snaps, then you just paid twice for the labor. Check oil pan gasket first b4 you spend money on seals.
You don't have to remove the whole diff to change the seals, but you will have to seperate it where the shaft meets the carrier housing. There is a clip holding the passenger axle shaft in place that you have to remove to change the seal. The drivers side axle stub can be removed with a little force as there is a spring clip holding that side in.