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1989 e-350 ford van. Just recharged the A/C

1989 e-350 ford van. Just recharged the A/C system and now the compressor stays on continuously in both the "A/C" and "Max" settings- will not cycle. Does anybody know if that is a bad sensor, switch, etc.

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  • tom_porter Aug 01, 2009

    It is the 7.5 gas engine with only front A/C. We switched the fittings from the R-12 system, evacuated, and refilled with approx 3.5lbs of R-134A.
    It cycled during the first lb. but then just stayed on. The scale was malfuctioning a bit, so it may be overcharged. The pressure readings were 350lbs on the hi side and 40 on the low.

    thanks for your help!

  • tom_porter Aug 01, 2009

    7.5l gas engine, front A/C only. We did a retro-fit, evacuated the system, and installed 3.4 lbs of R134. The low pressure switch is not bypassed. After we put in approx. 1lb of R134 the compressor was cycling, but now is just on all the time. The pressure reading is 325-350psi on the hi side and 60 on the low side. It may have been overcharged because the scale were using gave some odd readings early in the installation of the R134.

  • Roger Foster May 11, 2010

    Hello tom_porter: MY name is Roger and I will help you. First need to know a few things.What size motor? Does this van have front and rear A/C? What kind of freon did you use? If the system was over charged. The A/C will not cycle. Has any one by-passed the low pressure switch. If you converted the R 12 system to R134A you will need to reset the low pressure switch also. I will help further after you reply to questions. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger



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This is Common. The Compressor will run even on Heat settings. It is simply Priming for actions that the Owner could Initiate. Not a big Problem.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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SOURCE: A/C compressor cycles on/off

You could have a slow leak and the system is low on R134 and soon will stop running. The other thing to look for is the relay to the A/C compressor and switch it with an other relay or just replace it since there not that expensive. The pressure switch is an easy replacement to do, you just have to be quick so you don't lose all the R134 out of the system. Recap, recharge the system and get a proper reading on your high and low side A/C lines. To much R134 will also give you the same problem. Good luck and hope this helps.

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

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SOURCE: AC Compresser turns off and on every 5 to 10 sec.

A ac compressor will cycle like that if you are low on r134

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

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SOURCE: 1998 Ford Explorer a/c not working properly

HI. Here is a complete check list that will help you trouble shot this issue. You will find the problem in one or more of these areas stated below.

1. Check Drive Belts - The air conditioner utilizes a drive belt that supplies power to rotate the compressor, which is basically a refrigerant pump. If the belt fails the compressor has nothing to drive it, inspect and replace as needed to restore operation. If belt is intact proceed to the next step.

2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the system is low on refrigerant it could cycle on and off, making a ticking noise. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.

3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks - If the system has a large leak and no refrigerant remains it will not activate. First test system for a static pressure charge, with the engine off attach an ac gauge to the low side pressure port and check the state of charge. Depending on outside temperature there should be between 50 psi and 80 psi. (Cool and warm). A refrigerant leak detector is needed to inspect for leak, but if you do not have a leak detector there is an alternative method. The air conditioner system is designed to run with oil suspended in the refrigerant to lubricate the system. Check for oily residue outside the system by inspecting all hoses, compressor, condenser, evaporator or receiver drier and replace any component that has failed.

4. Inspect Fuses - Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center. Replace failed fuses as needed, recheck system. If the new fuse fails when reinstalled a short circuit is present and requires diagnosing with a wiring schematic, follow circuits to locate short, repair as needed and recheck system.

5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the temperature blend door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, insect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor.

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SOURCE: 99 plymouth grnd vygr van- installed new ac still don't cool

Your problem could be the blower fan relay or control modual that is bad have both checked iut.

Posted on Sep 16, 2009

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