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place a pan under the steering box. using the proper tools remove the hose by undoing the fittings at both ends of the hose on the car. some have a bracket to keep the hose from rubbing through that you will have to undo. install new hose in reverse order and then fill system and run engine turning the wheel from lock to lock position until air is bled out of system. keep the system full. if you get foam shut engine off and let sit then repeat until foam is gone.
Check the little hydrulic hoses that connect the brake cylinders to the steel lines. Those hoses can collapse on the inside and hold pressure to the brakes all the time. Replace those hoses.
is cooling system full of anifreeze..if not it has an air lock in it that clunks like a steam radiator in an old building...need to check level and maybe replace thermostat..
the lower radiator hose is a return hose and there are no vapor lock issues. If your coolant level is full when you start your vehicle and when it heats up and the system pressurizes your coolant expands with heat and then that excess pressure will go through the overflow outlet to the reservoir and the reservoir has a relief opening near the top to relieve pressure or for excess fluid to come out. If the lower hose is just warm then your water pump may not be circulating properly (be sure to check belt for tension no more than 1/2 inch of play should be present). One messy way to test water pump would be to first drain coolant if it is good to reuse it, then remove the lower hose, open the radiator cap and put a water hose in it and turn on half way. Look at the volume of water coming out and have someone start the vehicle and idle at about 2000 rpm if that volume has not doubled your pump is bad
when locked try to relieve the brake line pressure by opening the bleeder on the wheel that is locked. if that unlocks the wheel then replace the hose for that wheel. if all wheels are locked then relieve the pressure at the master cylinder if that unlocked the wheels then you will need the flush out all the brake fluid with new clean Dot 4 fluid. and replace all the rubber in the brake system. the fluid was contaminated and caused the rubber parts the the brake system to swell. this would include the master cylinder, rubber hoses, wheel cylinder kits, calipers kits, ABS pump module.any part that has brake fluid in it. if you know that the wrong fluid has be put into the brake fluid .you may want to check with your car insurancecompany it may be covered .
Many reasons could cause this condition. Clogged Heater Core, Inoperable, Damaged or Defective Damper doors within the Heater A/C Plenum. Also a possible Air Lock in the Heater Core and it's hoses. Having a 15 year old vehicle I would suspect the Air Lock which is easily rectified by loosening the return hose at the firewall enough to allow Air and some liquid to escape under low pressure. This is best accomplished by renting or buying an inexpensive pump for pressure testing cooling systems at a local Auto Parts Store. These pumps temporarily replace the Radiator Pressure Cap. With a COLD engine top off the Coolant to make sure that the Radiator is nearly completely full, DO NOT START the ENGINE! Install the Pump, pressurize the system to somewhere around 5-10 PSI, loosen the Return Hose (the hose that typically connects directly to the Radiator) at the Heater and bleed the Air out at the highest point. If there is NO AIR then the Heater Core is probably Clogged solid and requires replacement or one of the Damper Doors in the Plenum is inoperable or jammed..
Remove the Pressure tester, re-install the Pressure Cap and Start the Engine. Allow it to come up to Normal Operating Temperature, feel the hoses going to the Heater core and if both are warm then the problem is related to the Damper Doors located inside the Heater/ A/C Plenum. If this is the case a Dealer or other ASE Certified service shop specializing in Radiator and Heater service is your best bet.
It sounds to me that you may have 2 problems. 1). Air Lock in the Heater Core. 2). Inactive Heat Damper in the Plenum.
But since you state that the Heater Hoses do not get warm that is indicative of an Air Lock in the Heater Core. This is a relatively simple fix. It is best performed COLD but requires a method of pressurizing the Cooling System. All reputable Auto Parts stores Sell and/or Rent Pumps that temporarily replace the Radiator Pressure Cap for Leak tests and curing Air Lock. The Collant Level must be filled FULL then pressurized and then loosening the Highest Heater Hose at the Firewall so that Air and a Small Amount of Coolant escapes. Once all the Air has escaped tighten the Heater Hose Clamp, remove the Pressure Pump, Restore the Collant Level to FULL, re-install the Pressure Cap and Start the Engine. As it Warms up you should be able to feel coolant running through the Heater Hoses and they should become warm.
This normally indicates that one of the pressure hoses has either popped off, or has a leak..the hoses run from the vac pump to the doors, with several T connections in between..Start at the pump and trace from there..Check for popped hoses at the T connections, the pump, and at each door lock actuator (inside each door)..Listen for hissing sounds when the pump is running, this indicates a leak.
Are u getting power assist at all--if not u could need a pressure valve--it is at the back of the pump where the pressure hose attaches--if there is air in the system the fluid will foam--only thing u can do is turn lock to lock like ur doing and turn off the vehicle-wait a few minutes and do it again. Make sure the hose to the pump isn't cracked and all hose connections are tight
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