Question about 1990 Chevrolet S 10 4WD

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I replaced a section of brake line on my 1990 chevy s10 i bled the brake on the front but im not getting any fluid comeing thru on the rear bleeders

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  • Chevrolet Master
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First, remove the bleeder and make sure that it is not obstructed with road dirt or rust. (usually can be cleared with a small drill bit) If the master ran dry at any point, begin by bleeding at the master...some have bleed screws...ones that don't can be done by just breaking the line fitting and pressing down on brake gently, closing the line or bleeder while still depressed. Finally, really stubborn ones sometimes can be bled by attaching a small plastic hose to the bleeder, placing the free end into a small jar with some fluid in it. Keep the hose end submerged and lightly pump the brake. I use fish tank hose and warm it up so it can be fitted to bleeder end. Last option is to use a hand held vacuum pump to draw the fluid back to the brake.

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

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  • Expert
  • 186 Answers

Was the line going to the rear? if so on the front of thepropotional valve is a pin onder the rubber cover it should be in, if not you will have to remove the, one wire, sensor and look inside. there should be a little knoch in the center if not it will be to the front, use a small pick to slide it to the center replace the sensor and try to re-bleed.

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

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1 Answer

Got an '03 Chevy Cav Sdn, new front pad,changed hydraulic line. Now brakes stay engaged! Can bleed off pressure thru bleeder, will not return fluid to master cylinder.Bled green fluid!Help!


It certainly sounds like the brake hoses are kinked or collapsed internally. Did you replace the flexible hoses or the steel hydraulic line? When you removed the calipers to change the pads did you let the calipers hang by the hoses or did you support them? When reinstalling the calipers did you make sure the hose wasn't twisted or kinked? The fluid certainly shouldn't be green, are you sure you're bleeding the correct thing?

Nov 21, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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90's Honda civic no pressure in the brakes replaced the master cylinder bled the lines still no pressure. What am I missing? Please


AFTER BLEEDING THE MASTER CYLINDER ON THE BENCH, DID YOU BLEED IT IN THE CAR, IF NOT, OPEN THE LINE AT THE MASTER 3/4 TURN OFF, HAVE SOMEONE STEM ON THE BRAKES, DO IT SEVERAL TIMES UNTIL YOU SEE FLUID ON BOTH LINE NO AIR COMES OUT, THEN WITH THE KEY ON START FROM THE RIGHT REAR WHEEL , SOMEONE PUMPS AND HOLDS THE BRAKES AND YOU OPEN THE BLEEDER 3/4 TURN, THEN LEFT REAR , THEN RIGHT FRONT AND LAST LEFT FRONT, IF NO PRESSURE AFTER OPENING 4 OR 5 TIMES, OPEN THE SYSTEM BY THE BRAKE HOSE, BEFORE THE CALIPER, IF PRESURE THERE REPLACE THE HOSES. 14 YR OLD HOSES MAY BE INTERNALLY CRACKED. NOT ALLOWING FLUID TO GO THRU.

May 28, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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No brake pressure


When you bled the system was fluid coming out the bleeder valves?
Where the bleeder valves closed off with the brake pedal fully depressed?
Is the fluid reservoir cap ok?
Is the master cylinder ok?

Jan 05, 2014 | 1995 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

How do I bleed brakes on a dodge stratus 1998


  • PRESSURE BLEEDING
  • MANUAL BLEEDING
  • Print
    For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
    The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

    WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.


    MASTER CYLINDER

    See Figure 1
    If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

    1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
    2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
    3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
    4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.



    0900c15280089cdc.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

    1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
    2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
    3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
    4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
    5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
    6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

    If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.


    PRESSURE BLEEDING

    When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

    1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
    2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
    4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
    5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
    6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.


    MANUAL BLEEDING

    See Figure 2
    Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel


    0900c15280089cdd.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

    1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
    4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
    5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
    6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

    May 31, 2012 | 1998 Dodge Stratus

    1 Answer

    1990 Reatta. Replaced all calipers and hoses. Cannot get fluid to rear brakes. Porportioning valve is OK. No fluid coming to it. Is there a way to cycle the master cylinder valves to cycle fluid...


    I would try replaceing the master clylender and rebleed the brakes start at the right rear have some one help you press the brake paddle down and hold it open bleeder its where the brake line connects to the brakes looks like a greese fitting open the bleeder then close it let brake paddle back up repeat until you have fluid comeing out of bleeder go to the left rear do the same then right front to left front

    Aug 23, 2011 | 1990 Buick Reatta

    1 Answer

    Replaced master cylinder in a bronco II bench bled put on truck no air in front brakes but back will not come solid fluid there a squishing noise in master cylinder


    Very common. Fords can be very frustrating this way. Here is how I have gotten them to work. You need to radically bleed your brakes.
    The front brakes must be bled at the calipers. Start with the right front. Open the bleeder and pump the pedal 4 or 5 times (slowly) with the bleeder open. just leave it open - (I know, you have probably been told not to leave it open, but trust me, this is the easiest way to handle this.) then let it gravity bleed for a minute or so before closing the bleeder. Refill your master cylinder and repeat this process for the left front.

    Check your fluid level again and repeat the same steps again (yes, leaving the bleeder open) first with the right rear, then with the left rear. You should pump the pedal 7 or 8 times for the rear. Let these also gravity bleed for a minute or two after the pumping has been done.

    The idea is to force the air to travel all the way down the line and out the bleeders. Bleeding the "normal" way (pump it up and hold down, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, then pump again) only causes the air bubles to move down the line an inch or two, then when you close the bleeder and let up on the pedal, the bubble moves right back to where is was. I have seen people work for HOURS trying to get these things bled the "normal" way.

    After closing all the bleeders, (you should only be opening one at a time) then pump up the pedal and perform a "normal" Bleed, starting with the right rear then the left rear then the right front and finally, the left front. This should fix it.

    Jan 05, 2011 | 1988 Ford Bronco II

    1 Answer

    Replaced front brake lines and now I have to bleed the brakes on my 1999 dakota truck


    go in this order-
    -make sure the fluid resivoir is full and the cap on
    -crack both front bleeders loose and allow them to "gravity bleed"
    -once you see fluid constantly dripping out of the bleeder close them
    -do the same with the rear
    -after you have gravity bled the brakes grab a partner and have them pump the brake 4 to 5 times holding the pedal down on the fifth time
    have them say "holding" while you crack the right rear bleeder-once the pedal hits the floor they should say "floor" and hold it there while you tighten the bleeder. repeat until you see nothing but fluid squirt out.
    repeat this whole process in this order
    right rear
    left rear
    right front
    left front
    make sure to continually check the brake fluid level so it doesnt get too low
    this should work unless the master cylinder leaked dry from replacing the lines-if this happened you will most likely have to bleed or even replace the master cylinder

    Aug 12, 2010 | 1999 Dodge Dakota

    1 Answer

    We have replaced the master cylinder and a square


    When bleeding brakes you start with the wheel farther away from the master cylinder, this pushes air and fluid to the master cylinder. then the same with the next farther. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder.

    Jan 23, 2010 | 1998 Oldsmobile Achieva

    2 Answers

    1989 Ford F350 2 wheel drive dually 460 ci gas motor


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    Nov 24, 2008 | 1989 Ford F 350

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