Question about 2003 Ford Expedition

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97 expedition A/C will not hold a charge, despite stop leak, and loses it's charge in 12-24 hours. All blowers and controls function (compressor turns on, no vis. oil etc... ) Hissing and condensation noted on tubing on component in rear of vehicle, behind panel. Took to a shop, couldn't be given any diagnosis, but they want to charge 700 to change out the system. Help, please.

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I'm surprised that the shop will even work on it...stop leak does not work but it can and will damage the expensive machines used at shops.(it isn't really very good for your system either)
If the leak is in a component you believe that you can change yourself, It may be worth doing it, then having a shop purge and charge the system...However if you don't manage to get it right, there is no guarantee on the work.
It will then cost you more.
It's just my opinion, but if you do lots of your own work, this is one area that should be left to the pros...you have saved money overall. Even knowing what I know, I hesitate to do that work unless I have the proper equipment available.

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

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I had the same issue with my '97. Seemed like my freon would leak out within a few days. Took it to the shop. They couldn't find the leak after 3 hours. After getting it home, I heard the loud hissing from the rear air when I had it on. I replaced the Themostatic Expansion Valve (TXV) after researching similar symptons on the net. That seams to have fixed it for me. No more hissing and I'm at week 4 with ice cold air. If you do happen to have any freon left, you should have it recovered before replacing the part. It's the silver square with 4 hose connections attached behind the panel at the back on the drivers side. It was about $60 at my local parts store.

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

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How to change the AC compressor on a 2001 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer?


Remove dash inside to access as compressor. Discharge compressor then unbolt and replace. Use ac die to check for leaks then charge. reinstall dash after no leaks. This repair I do not recommend for the novice or semi novice mechanic as you can do more damage trying to replace a compressor then the high cost of the compressor. My new VW beetle's (just) Compressor runs about $1,200 dollars but at mechanic's price for part is half and rest is just mark-up! Remember that there is your price charged for a part and the mechanic's discounted price for that same part!

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I will try to answer and offer you a couple of choices based on 2 different potential problems.

The blower motor resistor is the control for both the heater fan blower and the A/C since they are the same blower motor. It is the boost that you need to feel either heat or A/C through the vents. The part can be traced from the heater blower wires under the hood to a control about the middle of the Firewall. 2 bolts hold it in place with 1 connector wire. But a heater line will likely block access to switching the part. It is often a part that tapping will start it working again.

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If the system was workin enough for you to add freon and stop leak you may have overcharged the system and blew out the location of the leak to make it lose enough charge that it shut down from being low on charge. There is a low pressure switch that will stop the clutch on the compressor from engaging when low on charge. The hose connections have O-rings and the system needs to be discharged and the Freon captured to replace the O-rings. ALL O-rings should be replaced at once if that is the case. Look to see where the red dye showed up if you put in the stop leak. Normally the seal in the compressor is what starts leaking first. It sounds like your leak is bad enough that stop leak will not be the answer so you may have to break down and take it to a shop to check the system.

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1997 expedition 5.4L a/c not cooling despite full a/c charge


tht is because you have a leak somewhere in your system and before you go and recharge with freon again make sure to find the leak and fix it and then have the system vacuumed out and recharged.

Jul 25, 2009 | 2001 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

1995 Chevy Suburban blows cold once charged then hours later hot


Its a leak ...probably concealed like in an evap housing or rear air unit and lines (if it has that). Prob at this juncture I would remove all the freon and bring system into a vaccuum with a pump and see if it will hold vaccum for an extended period of time. A bad leak will not hold srong vacuum very long and much cheaper than wasting expensive and enviromental un0friendly refrigerants.

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3 Answers

Air Condition acting wierd - 1997 Ford Explorer


Below, I've pasted instructions for the Control Cable adjustment.

Function Selector And Temperature Selector Control Cable To check the temperature cable adjustment, move the temperature control lever all the way to the left, then move it all the way to the right. At the extreme ends of lever travel, the door should be heard to firmly seat, indicated by a loud thumping sound, allowing either maximum or no air flow through the heater core. To check the function cable adjustment, see that the function lever will reach the detents at the far left and right of its travel. In addition, check that the air flow is correct when the function lever is moved through each detent provided in the control assembly. If cable adjustment is needed, proceed as follows:
  1. Disengage the glove compartment door by squeezing its sides together. Allow the door to hang free.
  2. Working through the glove compartment opening, remove the cable jacket from the metal attaching clip on the top of the plenum by depressing the clip tab and pulling the cable out of the clip.
The adjustable end should remain attached to the door cams.
  1. To adjust the temperature control cable, set the temperature lever at COOL and hold. With the cable end attached to the temperature door cam, push gently on the cable jacket to seat the blend door. Push until resistance is felt. Reinstall the cable to the clip by pushing the cable jacket into the clip from the top until it snaps in.
  2. To adjust the function control cable, set the function selector lever in the DEFROST detent and hold. With the cable end attached to the function cam, pull on the cam jacket until cam travel stops. Reinstall the cable to the clip by pushing the cable jacket into the clip from the top until it snaps in place.
  3. Install the glove compartment.
  4. Run the system blower on HIGH and actuate the levers, checking for proper adjustment.
Should the Control Cable turn out fine, then it's most likely to be the Blower Motor Resistor. It's a common Ford issue where some fan speeds fail in Ford's climate control but others work. In your case, it appears the lower speed is failing.
An illustration of the Blower Motor Resistor is linked to below.
Removal & Installation
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Disconnect the wire connector from the resistor assembly.
  3. Remove the 2 screws attaching the resistor assembly to the blower or evaporator case and remove the resistor.
  4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Check the blower motor for proper operation in all blower speeds.
Best of luck with your problem!
Greg

http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/8555/images/85556005.pdf

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1 Answer

Ac controle blows out hot air, seems heater is on all the time


HI. Here is a complete check list that will help you trouble shot this issue. You will find the problem in one or more of these areas stated below.

1. Check Drive Belts - The air conditioner utilizes a drive belt that supplies power to rotate the compressor, which is basically a refrigerant pump. If the belt fails the compressor has nothing to drive it, inspect and replace as needed to restore operation. If belt is intact proceed to the next step.

2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the system is low on refrigerant it could cycle on and off, making a ticking noise. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.

3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks - If the system has a large leak and no refrigerant remains it will not activate. First test system for a static pressure charge, with the engine off attach an ac gauge to the low side pressure port and check the state of charge. Depending on outside temperature there should be between 50 psi and 80 psi. (Cool and warm). A refrigerant leak detector is needed to inspect for leak, but if you do not have a leak detector there is an alternative method. The air conditioner system is designed to run with oil suspended in the refrigerant to lubricate the system. Check for oily residue outside the system by inspecting all hoses, compressor, condenser, evaporator or receiver drier and replace any component that has failed.

4. Inspect Fuses - Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center. Replace failed fuses as needed, recheck system. If the new fuse fails when reinstalled a short circuit is present and requires diagnosing with a wiring schematic, follow circuits to locate short, repair as needed and recheck system.

5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the temperature blend door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, insect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor.

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