I have a 2011 RZ5424 Zero Turn, I have replaced the left Transaxle but the left wheel has very little to no forward power at times. Both my old and new transaxles performed the same.

It is inside the transmission , side cover . Need to take driver side wheel off an maybe the inner fender well to see it .

Removal Procedure
Remove the case side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement .
Disconnect the transaxle wiring harness.


Alot of steps involved to replace it .

Removal Procedure
Remove the throttle body air inlet duct. Refer to Air Cleaner Element Replacement .
Remove the engine mount struts. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Replacement - Left Side and Engine Mount Strut Replacement - Right Side .
Remove the wiper module cover.
Disconnect the 20-way electrical connector at the transaxle.
Remove the shift cable bracket from the transaxle. Refer to Range Selector Lever Cable Bracket Replacement .
Install the engine support fixture and support the engine/transaxle assembly. Refer to Engine Support Fixture .
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
Remove the left front tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .
Disconnect the left wheel speed sensor harness connector (1).
Remove the left engine splash shield. Refer to Engine Splash Shield Replacement .
Remove both stabilizer shaft links from the lower control arms. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement .
Remove the wheel speed sensor harness from the control arm (1).
Remove the left lower ball joint from the left steering knuckle. Refer to Steering Knuckle Replacement .
Remove the left drive axle from the transaxle. Refer to Front Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement .
Reposition and secure the drive axle.
Remove the heat shield bolts from the frame. Refer to Steering Gear Heat Shield Replacement .
Remove the steering gear-to-frame bolts and secure the steering gear.
Support the left side of the frame with a utility stand.
Remove the transaxle mount lower nuts only. Refer to Transmission Mount Replacement .
Loosen the engine mount lower nuts. Refer to Engine Mount Replacement - Right Side .
Remove the air deflector. Refer to Radiator Air Baffle Assemblies and Deflectors .
Remove only the left side frame bolts. DO NOT LOOSEN the right side frame-to-body bolts. Refer to Front Frame Replacement .
Use the utility stand in order to lower the left side of the frame.
Position a drain pan under the transaxle.
Remove the utility stand and lower the vehicle.
Loosen the right engine support bolts. Refer to Engine Mount Replacement - Right Side .
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the transaxle mount bracket. Refer to Transmission Mount Bracket Replacement .
Remove the transaxle wiring harness connectors.


This is not a job for a amateur.

If you want to solve your problem, click on the link I attach

How are the tires? New? Old? Rotate them and see if noise goes away. Possibly front wheel bearing in the front drive axle where it goes thru the hub and rotor.......goes the noise get worse if you turn right or left slightly when driving it? If it gets worse on one side that is the side with the bad bearing.....replace as needed.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_2496c4f07ad24453

It sounds like the pump is stalling under load, most likely because the belt is old. Get it replaced, and if the power steering fluid hasn't been changed in 3 years or more, have the system flushed and filled too. Power steering oil is hygroscopic, just like brake fluid. Not to the same extent (it's not as aggressive in absorbing moisture), but over time it does take in water, which then corrodes the insides of your power steering system.

I don't think you can assess the condition of the transaxle by spinning the wheels.
The differential in the transaxle converts power from the transmission to the wheels by a set of gears. It would almost impossible for one side to turn at a different speed than the other.
You may have more drag on the brakes on one wheel, or the fluid in the transaxle could cause one side to go slower with the van off the ground.

Probably a bad CV joint on one of your drive axles to the front wheels. You have two drive axles coming out of the transaxle, one to each front wheel, and both have an inner CV joint where they enter the transaxle, and an outer CV joint where the axles fit into the wheel hub. (A CV joint is really like the old U-joints, serving the same purpose.) A clicking noise on turning is usually a badly worn outer CV joint. The cheapest fix is to buy a remanufactured half-shaft for your car. That is the axle shaft with both CV joints at each end inspected and reconditioned with new grease and CV boots installed. You need to know which side is bad before buying. The half-shaft is sold ready to install. Someone with good mechanical skills will need to remove the old one and replace it with the new reconditioned axle shaft, or half shaft as they are also called. The last time I bought one (about two years ago) the cost was reasonable- about $65.00. That is less than the cost of one new CV joint.
Hope this helps you out.

Turn the steering wheel hard left and try turning key. If it doesn't move, try the right side. If that fails, try pushing the gear Hirt lever forward -it should be in PARK. If it is in PARK, push forward on shifter and turn key. Last option, pry the small (1/2" x 1/2") access panel off the frame around the gear shift. There should be a button under it. Push the button and turn the key. Good luck

no, this is one of those situations where you either have the parts to splice it back together or you need to replace the whole line. . Its a dealer part unless you can remove it and go to a autoparts house and match it up.

Does sound stop when you turn LEFT?

Turning RIGHT puts the heavy load on the LEFT front wheel.
That initially STOPPED the noise, correct? So why did you change L?

Turning LEFT puts the load on the RIGHT. Did you change the RIGHT?

Let's say this:
If turning RIGHT stops the noise, it's the RIGHT one that's likely bad.
If turning LEFT stops the noise, it's the LEFT one that's more likely bad.

Make sense? Turning RIGHT loads the LEFT wheel; and vice-versa as the WEIGHT SHIFTS AWAY FROM THE TURN.

More than likely it is what some folks call a CV joint problem, not wheel bearings. Try backing up and then going forward to see if "clunking sound" or a sharp "bang" is heard. Wheel bearings and CV joints only work if smooth. Sometimes a BEARING RACE is bad. Also, a bad spindle / part of the CV joint / transaxle assembly worn or badly machined. If in a WET ENVIRONMENT especially, u may want to try marine grade grease or teflon-added grease.




Does sound come from POWER STEERING PUMP area?

the C V JOINTS have hadit.that is the constant velocity jointsare badly worn and need replacing youdoit