Question about 1992 Chevrolet K1500

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Clutch won't disengage

I was on my way home from work and lost all pressure from clutch pedal was able to grind my way home but now i can't get to the shop(too many stoplights to grind through) I can work on engines all day but know nothing of transmissions and clutch assemblies would it be the clutch or master/slave cylinder 1991 chevy k1500 everything was working great 2 minutes later no cluch thanks

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  • 37 Answers

Master/slave cylinder

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

  • bkramberg Dec 11, 2010

    I just rebuilt my engine for my 91 k1500. I lost all pressure also. What I did was replaced the Slave and Master cylinder (Slaved needed replacing anyway and replaced the master just for the hell of it). I bled the lines and it started to work fine. Hope this helps

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The Clutch disc and Release Bearing for the TD4-Freelander, were replaced recently. The Pressure Plate was still in a good condition.Gears difficult to engage.Please advise.Tks.John.


Most likely still has air in hydraulic clutch slave system. Many transmisions will have dificulty shifting if clutch doesn't full disengage. If air is in system it won't allow full disengage thus difficulty in shifting even possible grinding gears

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the gear grinding noise is because the clutch plate is not fully disengaging and the input shaft is still driving. If you did not use the same length of push rod then the slave cylinder is not moving enough to disengage the clutch. Check it out that with the pedal on the floor the piston in the slave cylinder should be almost to the edge of the slave cylinder . That is where It should be to be working properly

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I was driving my manual 91 dodge stealth home when i went to shift into 4th gear the clutch pedal went all the way to the floor and stuck and now it doesnt like to go into gear with the clutch in but it...


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Feb 05, 2013 | 1995 GMC Sonoma

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I have a case 580 backhoe and when you push the clutch down and try to put it in forward or reverse it grinds and wont go in gear


Just a guess from an old shadetree mechanic: pedal pressure is wrong-too weak, or the clutch pressure plate bolted to the flywheel is bad. They will wear on the fingers and the plate's springs can wear. There should be a Case repair facility at a dealership, anywhere close? A mechanic familiar with your case 580, they often don't mind talking a bit over the phone about a mechanical problem. I meant by pedal pressure-I don't know if the rig is hydraulic clutch or mechanical linkage or cable operated, but check if the clutch pedal can be adjusted. On a hydraulic clutch with a clutch master cylinder and an associated slave cylinder, there is no adjustment. You just have to keep the reservoir full of dot-3, or dot-4 brake fluid. So that's my guess, something wrong with the pedal, or worse, something wrong with the pressure plate. You definitely need a second opinion. Good luck.

Jan 25, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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2005 Ford Ranger clutch has no pressure


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Oct 01, 2012 | 2005 Ford Ranger

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Clutch problems


Hi bosslady15,

First of all I think I should say that clutches do not make grinding noises - but transmission gears do.
However, a clutch that is not disengaging properly can make the gears grind when trying to shift from one gear to the next. Also a common source of noise is the clutch throwout bearing. This will make a "grinding" or "growling" noise any time the clutch pedal is depressed. In either of these cases, the only solution is to replace the clutch, throwout bearing, pressure plate and pilot bushing. These all usually come in a clutch kit. If you have an hydraulic clutch with an internal slave cylinder it is recommended to replace the slave cylinder as well and also the flywheel on on vehicles. I'm sorry I cannot be more specific because you did not mention what type of vehicle we are talking about here.

Nov 07, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

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Manual Transmition, While driving the clutch pedal went right to the floo and stayed down. I lifted the pedal with my foot and with a light touch i pushed down on the pedal and it it began a grinding sound...


the slave cylinder on the trans works just like a brake cylinder, when fluid pressure is applied it flows into the cylinder and pushes against a clutch fork which engages a throw out bearing against the clutch pressure plate fingers. a couple things could have happened. I think your trans is fine but im sure the clutch fork or the pressure plate broke. I'm sorry but the trans is gonna have to be pulled. best wishes

Feb 03, 2011 | 2000 Isuzu Trooper

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Info on do it tyour self clutch removal on 2001 mustang 3.8


REMOVAL:
  1. Lift clutch pedal to uppermost position to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
  2. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and unhook clutch release lever cable from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
  3. Raise and support vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch release lever dust shield.
  5. Disconnect clutch release lever cable from clutch release shaft.
  6. Remove retaining clip, then clutch release lever cable from flywheel housing.
  7. Remove starter motor from flywheel housing, then engine rear plate to front lower flywheel housing bolts.
  8. Remove transmission.
  9. Remove flywheel housing back just far enough to clear clutch pressure plate, then remove housing.
  10. Remove clutch release shaft from flywheel housing by pulling it through window in flywheel housing until retainer spring disengages from pivot.
  11. Remove clutch release hub and bearing from clutch release shaft.
  12. Loosen six clutch pressure plate bolts evenly to release spring tension gradually and avoid distorting clutch pressure plate. If same clutch pressure plate is to be installed, mark plate and flywheel so pressure plate can be installed in its original position.
  13. Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch disc from flywheel.
INSTALLATION:
  1. Position clutch disc and pressure plate assembly on flywheel, noting following:
    1. Three flywheel housing to block dowels on flywheel must be properly aligned with clutch pressure plate.
    2. Bent, damaged or missing flywheel housing to block dowels must be replaced.
    3. tart clutch pressure plate bolts but do not tighten.
    4. Avoid touching clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.
    5. Align clutch disc using suitable alignment tool inserted in pilot bearing.
    6. To avoid clutch pressure plate distortion, alternately tighten bolts a few turns at a time, until they are all tight, then tighten to specifications.

  2. Install transmission to flywheel housing.
  3. Install engine rear plate to flywheel front lower housing bolts, then connect clutch release cable to flywheel housing and connect retaining clip.
  4. Connect clutch release lever cable to clutch release shaft, then install clutch release lever dust shield.
  5. Install starter motor.
  6. Lower vehicle, then install clutch release lever cable as follows:
    1. Lift clutch pedal to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
    2. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and hook end of clutch release lever cable over rear of clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.

  7. Cycle clutch pedal several times to adjust clutch release lever cable

Aug 08, 2009 | 2001 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

Getting harder and harder to place into gear. Also, when the clutch is disengaged (pedal down), I will hear a louder noise, sounds like something is rubbing on something


It seems like the clutch pressure plate has gone, not releasing the clutch plate once the pedal is operated.
The noise you hear, is it a screeching one or is it like the gears rubbing eachother.
If its a screeching noise thn its the release bearing and if its a heavier grinding noise thn its the gears.
Guess you will have to replace the clutch pressure plate, its highly recomended though to replace the pro-kit,i.e the clutch plate, pressure plate and the release bearing.
Good luck.

Jul 08, 2009 | 1991 Isuzu Rodeo

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