Question about 1998 Jeep Cherokee

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1st-dash instrumentation goes out,speedomter, temp, oil press.....UNTIL you whack the dash a few times. Connection? Next, U_Joint replacement...Front left, axle....ideas. Gotta do in 1 day. Cant leave wife ''Jeepless''. My ****. Thanx

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There is a short somewhere

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

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2 Answers

What relay affects the instrument cluster? My instrument cluster intermittently cuts out for a period of time and then sometimes its back on. More often then not it is not working.


I think I would be investing time in looking for a bad earth(ground) wire for the instrument cluster or dash harness as what you describe is vindictive of a bad connection

Sep 23, 2015 | 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan

1 Answer

Ford 2002 f150 no display odometer


This may sound unprofessional but whack the dash a few times with your fist right above the instrument panel and the odo will appear. This is not a permanent fix but it will stay for a little bit. Otherwise you must replace tge whole cluster

Mar 03, 2014 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Instrument cluster


Under the dash (I'm asuming you have s digital dash), if you look under there close to where the console ends, you will see a kind of goldish colored box about 4 inch or so square (I think it's square,
I haven't worked on one in a long time with that problem) There should be another box to the left of that, I am only giving you a reference point so you know you are in the correct area. Anyway, the smaller box is the power supply to the digitsl dash. If that goes bad, the dash won't light up. The symptoms typically are that part of the dash may work for a little while and then the whole thing goes out. All you can do is replace it. They are hard to find in a salvage yard and then you are takeing a chance.I hope I have answered your question. I'm sure I have solvdd some problems out there for a few people.

Oct 27, 2012 | 1985 Nissan 300ZX

1 Answer

The panel stopped working full time about two months ago. Now it comes on every now and again, but mostly not.


I'm guessing you mean the instrument panel? if so, here's the fix...
remove the dash cluster, first undo the 3 torx bolts under the steering coulmn, then pop the cover off, it's attatched to the bottom cover of the dash cluster, this will just pull off. next, remove the 4 screws holding the instrument cluster in place (careful not to drop any as they are hard to retrieve). Pull the cluster out of the dash and carefully pull the plugs out of the back. Disassemble the cluster until you are left with just the PCB(best to do this on a well lit table). On the back of the PCB you will see 3 processors. the one at the top is the one causing the problem, years of heat and vibration have caused a dry - joint in the solder on one of the legs of that chip. With a fine soldering iron and a magnifying glass, melt the solder on the legs down one side of the chip now take the PCB to the car, without re-assembling the cluster, carefully plug the cables - in and start the car to see if it has worked. repeat this process until you find the side of the chip that's causing the problem (usually only 1 or 2 legs but it's best to do the whole side). When finished, re-assemble the dash cluster - make sure all the springs locate correctly in the facia as they are the connection for the speedo/rev counter/fuel/temp. plug it in and test it again before fully re-installing it.
Good luck...
more info... martinrpeachey@live.co.uk

Dec 16, 2010 | 2003 Volvo V70

1 Answer

Have 99 Dodge Caravan The Cluster is not working ( speed milage, shift pattern speed ometer, temp and fuel gauge. Is there a fuse for all or what do I look for the problem? The fuses all look...


with they key on whack the top of dash with the palm of your hand. Do this several times. If the instrument cluster come alive than you have bad solder joints at the main connector for the instrument cluster. The cluster will need to be removed from the dash and then disassembled. The broken solder joint(s) will be visible and can be re-flowed with a soldering iron.

Here are some pictures of the last one I fixed. You can see the ring around this joint this one happens to be the main ground for the instrument cluster.
9196395.jpg9a0f722.jpg

Oct 17, 2010 | 1999 Dodge Caravan

4 Answers

Instrument panel went dead


Checked Every fuse in the fuse box (no small task).This includes #4 - Power point Instrument Panel, #14 - Day time running lamps (auto lamps doesn't work nor does auto lock), #27 - ignition switch run feed, #35 - Instrument Cluster, #41 - Instrument Cluster, #42 - Delayed Accessory, #45 - Ignition switch run/start feed, #102 - Door locks body security module, #103 - Ignition switch, #110 - Ignition switch, & #116 - Ignition switch. But I also check all other ones as well, they all register OK. AC panel & radio work. Turn signals work. Mileage does not work, trip computer does. So, basically, everything works except auto head-lights, auto locks, and the dash cluster (no MPH, RPM, mileage display, Fuel, Temp, Tran Temp, and Oil Pressure).

Aug 19, 2009 | 2003 Ford Excursion

1 Answer

2002 chevy cavalier drive axle


You may have to have half inch air impact gun to remove the spindle nut (in the center of the rotor). I'd make that the first task to undertake because your next task will be to remove lower ball joint. After you get that spindle nut loose, take a hammer, 32 oz. preferrably and whack area directly behind lower ball joint to coerce it in to loosening up. Then take a decent pry bar and lift up on the whole spindle assembly and if it don't release, go whack the front side in front of lower ball joint. After you get it to come free from lower A arm, take a pry bar and insert it in between the CV joint and transmission housing. Do not put a lot of pressure that will over stress the transmission case, just vigorously enough to get the CV joint to pop out of the circlips that holds it into transmission. Make sure when you put new one in that CV joint reseats all the way and reverse procedure is the same.

May 11, 2009 | 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier Coupe

1 Answer

I need to replace my front wheel bearings on my Acura 3.2 TL.


You need to take them the knuckle. This is what the brake calliper, the wheel studs, the upper and lower ball joints, and the axle half shaft all connect to. Start with the axle nut. It's pretty big and might have a cotter pin through it. I say that because it's the tightest bolt and you can use the brakes to hold it from just spinning the wheel. There is one castle nut per ball joint, should have a cotter pin through them, take them off and beat the ball joint out with a hammer, don't hit the stud or you'll never get the nut back on. Two bolts on the brake calliper. once you have all that off give the end of the axle a few whacks until it's free. Don't go pulling on it or you'll separate the CV joint in the half shaft.

Mar 23, 2009 | 2000 Acura TL

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