Torque specs for 6 bolts on intake plenum on 2012 buick lacrosse 3.6L

The 2014 Chevy Spark intake manifold torque sequence and torque specs depend on the engine type. Here are the torque specs and sequence for each engine type:
1.0L Engine:

• Step 1: Tighten the bolts to 44 inch-pounds (5 Nm).
• Step 2: Tighten the bolts to 89 inch-pounds (10 Nm).
• Step 3: Tighten the bolts to 18 lb-ft (25 Nm).

Torque sequence: 8 4 1 5 9 7 3 2 6 10
1.2L Engine:

• Step 1: Tighten the bolts to 44 inch-pounds (5 Nm).
• Step 2: Tighten the bolts to 89 inch-pounds (10 Nm).
• Step 3: Tighten the bolts to 18 lb-ft (25 Nm).

Torque sequence: 8 4 1 5 9 7 3 2 6 10
It's important to follow the torque sequence and torque specs carefully to ensure that the intake manifold is properly secured and sealed. Over-tightening or under-tightening the bolts can cause leaks or damage to the engine.

already answered here, 26 or 29 :>D

What are the torque specs for crankshaft main and rod - Fixya

https://www.fixya.com > ... > Buick > LeSabre
Sept 21, 2012 - The connecting rods torque to 29 foot pounds. ... Where is the eng control module in a 2005 Buick Rendezvous ultra 3.6 eng.
SOLVED: I need torque specs. for rod bearings and main - Fixya
Jun 2, 2011
Torque specs for intake on 2005 buick rendezsous - Fixya
Sept 7, 2019
Torque spec for1997 3.8 buick rod and mains - Fixya
May 22, 2012
What is the torque specks for a 3.8 lt v 6 rear main cap 1987 buick ...
Nov 14, 2019
More results from www.fixya.com

More here

https://www.google.com/search?q=05+Buick+Rendezvous+Ultra+3.6+piston+rod+torque
..

My database showed this for upper intake manifold. 3.6L engine. Hope you can read it, text is a little small. 17 ft lbs, tighten in a circular motion, outward, starting in the middle.

Front is simple. Remove the spark plug cover. Remove the 10 bolts that hold it in, carefully pry it up. Remove and clean the cover put in the new gasket but put a bead of RTV in the channel for the gasket first let it set then put the gasket in and torque it down to specs. There is a sequence, you wnana move fromt he center outwards.

The rear is much more complicated, you need to remove the upper intake plenum, TB, associated coolant lines, vacuum lines etc. It can take upwards of 5-6 hours if you arent familar with that type of stuff.

You will have to remove the intake manifold (this is the solid large plastic cover that covers the top of the engine when you remove the engine cover). There are many wires and small vacuum hoses to disconnect. Plus.., when re-installing, it is a common problem the manifold cracks if excessive torque is applied to the fastening bolts. And you probably should relpace the intake manifold gasket.You can then remove the thermostat assembly by disconnecting the hoses and loosening the mounting screw.

----------

The procedure as per service manual is as follows:----

Following the Service Manual instructions, drain the coolant circuit, then remove the return pipe and the short rubber hose connected to the engine main coolant rail (1 clip at the bottom + 1 clip at the top). You remove also the outlet hose (1 clip at the engine outlet spout + 1 clip at the bottom pipe, you need to loosen the pipe mount to remove the hose). Once removed the return pipe you can undo the coolant rail: 2 (tight) bolts below the rail and the oil dipstick bolt holding the thermostat housing. Doing this without the manifold in place is simple, but its not that easy with the manifold on.... once loosened the coolant rail you can remove the thermostat housing. You open it (3 bolts) and replace the old thermostat with new. All 3 gaskets should be replaced, to minimize the risk of leaks. Apply silicone lubricant on the O-rings, then fit housing + coolant rail back in.

----------

This will help you.Thanks.Helpmech.

The forward plugs are no problem as there easy to access. To get top the rear bank of plugs you'll need to disconnect the cable from the throttle body, remove any associated wiring, spark plug cables (remember what goes where) and hoses and remove the plenum (the large aluminum item on top of the engine which air travels to the intake. If my memory serves there are @ (8) No. 12 socket nuts/bolts that are used to hold the plenum in place. Also the plenum is supported by a bracket ot two located near the fire wall. If you take your time, mark all of your connections and be patient you can do this in an afternoon. Be certain to pick up an new gasket that runs between the plenum and intake. Also you'll be working with aluminum... go easy and take care not to over torque any nuts/bolts. For safety always start by removing the battery's ground cable.
I hope this may have helped,
Tom

3.8L Engine

NOTE The 3.8L (VIN K) non-supercharged engine uses a two-piece intake manifold consisting of an upper air plenum which mounts the throttle body and a lower intake manifold assembly which houses the fuel injectors. The 3.8L (VIN 1) supercharged engine uses a similar lower intake manifold. The supercharger serves as the upper manifold.
Lower Manifold

NOTE Two bolts which fasten the lower intake manifold to the cylinder head are accessible only after the upper intake manifold is removed. These bolts are located in the right front and left rear corners of the lower intake manifold. Remove the upper intake manifold to service the lower intake.
The 3.8L (VIN 1) supercharged engine uses a manifold similar to the 3.8L (VIN K), but the supercharger serves as the upper manifold.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. On 3.8L (VIN 1) engines, remove the supercharger assembly. Please see the procedure in this section.
3. Remove the upper intake manifold using the procedure above.
4. Remove the EGR outlet pipe from the intake manifold.
5. Detach the engine coolant temperature sensor wiring harness from the sensor.
6. Remove the lower intake manifold bolts and carefully lift off the manifold.

To install:


Fig. Lower intake manifold bolt torque sequence-3.8L (VIN K) engine

1. Clean all parts well with degreaser, especially the gasket seal surfaces on the upper and lower manifold pieces and between the lower manifold and the cylinder heads..
2. Install new gaskets to the cylinder heads and new seals to the engine block. Carefully lower the manifold into place. Apply thread-locking compound to the bolt threads. Make sure to install the two hidden bolts in the lower intake manifold. Hand start all bolts, then torque evenly to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm). Follow the toque sequence, starting in the center, then working outwards in a circle.
3. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of the removal process.

Upper Intake Manifold (Plenum)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. On 3.8L (VIN 1) engines, remove the supercharger assembly. Please see the procedure in this section.
3. Tag for identification, then remove the right side spark plug wires.
4. Disconnect the ignition wires from the fuel rail.
5. Remove the fuel rail. Please see Section 5.
6. Remove the cable bracket from the intake manifold.
7. Remove the throttle body.

NOTE Two bolts which fasten the lower intake manifold to the cylinder head are accessible are accessible only after the upper intake manifold is removed. These bolts are located in the right front and left rear corners of the lower intake manifold.

1. Remove the upper intake manifold bolts and carefully lift the upper intake manifold from the engine.

Fig. Upper intake manifold and bolt torque sequence-3.8L (VIN K) engine
To install:

1. Clean all parts well with degreaser, especially the gasket seal surfaces on the upper and lower manifold pieces.
2. Install new gaskets to the cylinder heads and new seals to the engine block. Carefully lower the manifold into place. Make sure to install the two hidden bolts in the lower intake manifold. Hand start all bolts, then torque evenly to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Follow the torque sequence, starting in the center, then working outwards in a circle.
3. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of the removal process.

My 2002 Land Rover Freelander V6 thermostat crapped out as well and I decided to replace it myself.

The plenum is deceptive, but after 3 hours of looking and trying I finally got it off. Of course there are many hoses and electrical connections that need to be removed, but that's the easy part because you can see them all. The bolts that hold on the plenum are what your worried about and I will now tell you where they are. Read this and you should take about 30min to remove the plenum.

There are a total of 6 bolts to be removed that secure the intake plenum to the intake manifolds.

First remove the 4, 10mm large and obvious bolts at the top of the plenum. Now here is the tricky part, there are 2 bolts that are at the back of the plenum near the fire wall. As you are looking at the intake plenum from the front of the car, they are on the back side of the plenum near the fire wall on the passenger and driver side of the intake plenum.

Both bolts your looking for are 8mm bolts. If you remove a 10mm bolt, your removing the bolts that secure the rear spark plug coils.

The driver side rear intake plenum 8mm bolt is secured to the plenum itself. Fell with your hand about the back of the plenum on the right side for a lone bolt that is in the plenum with a metal tab that goes down to the back of the rear cylinder head. Remove the bolt that is attached to the intake plenum, not on the rear cylinder head

The passenger side one is a bit different. Feel on the back of the intake plenum about the passenger side for a metal support tab that comes down from the intake plenum and secures to the rear cylinder head. Where the support tab attaches to the head is a 8mm bolt that you remove.

Now here come the leap of faith. If you have the 4, 10mm obvious bolts removed and the 2, 8mm from the rear of the plenum removed, and if you can rock the plenum up and down about 2-3 inches,but it still feels like its attached to the intake manifolds in the middle of the engine, then you have removed all the bolts that secure the intake plenum to the engine. This is good.

The intake plenum is now being held on by the rear intake manifold by 3 O-ring gaskets. Push onto the back of the intake plenum near the firewall to expose a gap at the front of the intake plenum at the front intake manifold. Put 2-3 long flat screwdrivers into the gap or a small pry bar, and ever so gently but forcefully, apply prying force as to not damage the mating surface of the aluminum intake manifold, until the intake plenum pops off. It will just POP off.

Now that the intake plenum is popped off, take careful note of all the electrical plugs and hoses as to where they attach. You will not need any tools to disconnect the electrical plugs or hoses. To remove the hoses, push down the red ring with you fingers that the hose goes into and pull on the hose, it should come out very easily. The electrical connectors, push on the metal clip down and pull the connector loose. The electrical connectors only plug into their own plug, so you cant mess them up.

Tools you will need to replace the thermostat;

1. 8mm combo wrench. Make sure its not too long, shorter is better.
2. 10mm socket, shallow. 10mm combo wrench
3. 2-3 flat screwdrivers, for prying off the intake plenum
4. Ratchet wrench
5. 1 foot long worth of socket extensions. 2 6inch extensions will work as well
6. Universal socket joint
7. Angled needle nose pliers make it easier for hose clap removal, but straight needle nose pliers will work
8. Diagonal cutters to cut securing zip ties for the wiring harness

Take you time, once the plenum is off it goes pretty smooth after that. We removed just the forward intake manifold and that was more than enough clearance to remove the thermostat. You do not need to remove the fuel rail or spark plug coils from the manifold but you will need to disconnect the electrical connections to move the intake manifold out of the way.


Take pictures, there's a lot of hoses that go all over the place. The electrical connectors are only long enough to go where their supposed to go.

Then take that UK piece of **** to the dealer and trade it in for anything made in the USA or Japan. Changing a thermostat in any of those will only take 10 min and require 1 tool.

Repair provided by KPCYCLES.com of Honolulu, HI

Depends on how MECHANICALLY INCLINED you are. Have you done any repair work on vehicle engines before? It's not that difficult to do if you know how to turn a wrench/ratchet and THINK about what you are doing and what you are dealing with... .attention to details. Ya think? On the 04 2.7 lit V6 Sonata, there are two nuts and 5 bolts (two long and three short) which hold the plenum to the RISER manifold. There are an additional 3 to 4 bolts at the rear (firewall side) which support the plenum (they're all 12mm bolts). You'll need to remove the intake air hose to lift the plenum out of the way to access the 3 plugs on the RH side (rear) of the engine. You'll want to replace the plenum gasket when you do this. When you reinstall the plenum, the tightening torque is 11-14 lb.ft. Do not tighten the REAR support bolts until after you torque the surge tank bolts to the intake (riser) manifold.

Head Torque sequence Step 1: torque to 50 Ft/Lbs Step 2: torque to 105 Ft/Lbs recheck final torque in sequence.

Torque intake manifold: Step 1: 12 inch/Lbs, (hand tight) Step 2: 72 inch/Lbs, (6) Ft/Lbs Step 3: 12 Ft/Lbs
torque intake plenum: Step 1: 24 inch/lb (hand tight) Step 2: 48 inch/lb (4) Ft/Lbs Step 3: 84 inch/lb (7) Ft/Lbs (To torque bolts, start in center using crisscross pattern)