Question about Jeep Wrangler

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Its a 2001 wrangler sport the problem is whenever i drive until it gets hot i cannot shift anymore the clutch iwll not fully disengage i put multiple new master and slave cylinders in and bought a factory set up that comes bench bled and i changed the fluid but still doesnt work when the truck is cold it shifts fine but when it gets hot i cant get it in or out of a gear if i shut it off it goes right in

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  • rokabily2001 Aug 03, 2009

    the cluth master cylinder rod should not be effected by heat so trying to lenghthining would not solve and the firewall is renforced steel so warping is not a option

  • rokabily2001 Aug 03, 2009

    since the problem only happens after its hot or long driving times how will i be able to tell what the problem is when i take out the tranny .is there anything specific i should look for cause it works perfect for the first half hour or so of driving

  • rokabily2001 Aug 03, 2009

    i appriciate the prompt response and the knowledgable answer

  • rokabily2001 Aug 03, 2009

    i appriciate the prompt response and the knowledgable answer

  • rokabily2001 Aug 03, 2009

    i appriciate the prompt response and the knowledgable answer

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2 Answers

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  • Jeep Master
  • 6,982 Answers

First, check that the clutch pedal is intact and that it is mechanically sound and able to fully operate the master (I've seen a few that have broken welds on the ear that attaches to the master actuator rod) If the clutch is not disengaging, either the bell spring inside the clutch cover is not functioning properly and isn't lifting the pressure plate off the disc when the pedal is depressed, or the transmission input shaft is still turning because though the disc is running free, it may be binding in the pilot bearing in the rear of the crankshaft. and not slowing down as disc is released. it's a shame that everyone now uses a full bellhousing..In the "olden days", you could remove the lower part of it and actually look at what was going on in there. Unfortunately, even if I was there, I'd need to remove the transmission to offer anything but an educated guess.
If you have done everything you said, and there is no air in the system, then the next step is trans removal and good visual inspection.
Good luck...any specific questions about whatever you find, just ask and I'll answer!

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

  • Richard Scordino Aug 03, 2009

    Two reasons for what I said. first, if the linkage has changed geometry (broken weld etc) it may be "off" just enough to operate the clutch when it's cold. As the clutch is being used it gets hot and swells a bit and at that point it may not fully release. From the inside out, if the bell spring is not allowing the pressure plate to disengage from the disc fully the same condition will exist. (best example is the multiple clutches in a fuel dragster...If you have ever been in the pit area you will see dragsters and funny cars up on jack stands running...this is because you can't get the adjustment right till the clutches are hot. If you don't, after the burnout, the clutch will fail to release (sound familiar?)
    Second...If the pilot bearing is failing, at low temps, the clearance is looser than while hot. As the bearing and input shaft swell, they will act as one piece and turn the input at crank speed instead of allowing it to slow down when the pressure plate opens and releases the disc. As I mentioned You will need to examine everything carefully including items I did not mention...it all works together. I'd need to do exactly as I outlined if I were there. by everything, I mean everything, including comparing the depth of the receiver in the back of the master, to ensure that there is nothing different from what you had to what you have now.


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  • Jeep Master
  • 1,000 Answers

If this is the original clutch, the spring arms could be fatigued and warping after the clutch is hot.
First thing to check is the clutch master cylinder push rod from the pedal to the master cylinder. If it is worn, it will not allow enough travel of the master cylinder to disengage the clutch. Also, the rod may be adjustable so you can lengthen the rod and get the proper stroke.
Second: Check the firewall area were the clutch master cylinder is mounted. Use a straight edge to see if the firewall mounting area is flat. They tend to bow into the engine compartment, causing the clutch disengage issue.
Check the rod first, if there is an adjustment you can solve the problem quickly.
Good luck.
Regards,

Posted on Jul 31, 2009

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