I removed my fuel line that supplies the fuel injectors, fuel pump quit working when reassembled.

SOURCE: 2001 GMC Yukon SLT

Sorry this one is beyeond my field of experience.

SOURCE: 2001 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3L V8 - whirring sound after engine is off

that is most likely your abs control module locate your 60 amp abs fuse under the hood and remove it if the noise stops you need to replace your control module

SOURCE: 2002 gmc yukon, rich fuel code, low fuel pressure @40

you may have two oxugen sensors on your yukon. if so the oxygen sensor that controls that bank may be bad. from what you mentioned in your complaint, it sounds like it is the oxygen sensor.

Harvey N Tawatao

• 3854 Answers
• Posted on Sep 04, 2009

SOURCE: 2003 GMC Yukon - fuel pump

Check your ECM fuse. There should be 2 fuses for your ECM. It's the ECM that controls the function of the fuel pump. Good luck friend and it's also common for the wire harness from the frame to the fuel pump to go bad due to corrosion from the bad weather we get in the winter and rainy spring and fall. 

Jeffrey Turcotte

• 8991 Answers
• Posted on Nov 20, 2010

SOURCE: Hi I have a 98 gmc sierra 1500 with 5.7 vortec,

It's hard to find these small leaks. If you have a vacuum pump, there are a few tests you can run on the components of the system. See below.

TESTING

Vapor Canister
See Figure 1

1. Apply a length of hose to the lower tube of the purge valve assembly and attempt to blow air through it. There should be little or no air should passing into the canister.

1. Using a hand-held vacuum pump, apply a vacuum of 15 in. Hg (51 kPa) to the control vacuum (upper) tube. If the vacuum does not hold for at least 20 seconds, the diaphragm is leaking. Replace the canister.
2. If the diaphragm holds vacuum, attempt to blow air through the hose connected to the PCV tube while vacuum is still being applied. An increase of air should be observed. If no increase is noted, the canister must be replaced.

Fig. Fig. 1: Cross-section of the vapor canister


Fuel Tank Pressure Control Valve

1. Attach a length of hose to the tank side of the valve assembly and try to blow air through it. Little or no air should pass into the canister.
2. Using a hand-held vacuum pump, apply vacuum equivalent to 15 in. Hg (51 kPa) to the control vacuum tube. If the diaphragm does not hold vacuum, the diaphragm is leaking. Replace the valve.
3. If the diaphragm holds vacuum, attempt to blow air through the hose connected to the valve while vacuum is still being applied. Air should pass. If no air is noted, the valve must be replaced.

1. With engine temperature below 100°F (38°C), apply vacuum to the manifold side of the switch. The switch should hold vacuum.
2. Start and continue to run the engine until the engine temperature increases above 122°F (50°C). The vacuum should drop off.
3. Replace the switch if it fails either test.