Can't get a full charge on my aire 11 - Cars & Trucks

If you hear a noise near the rear left tire and removing the fuse makes the noise stop, then check the SERVICE PARTS IDENTIFICATION Sticker in the glovebox for code "G67." G67 = Air Level Control suspension, a.k.a. Air Ride Suspension, or Smooth Ride (or Luxury Ride) Suspension. You hear the air compressor turning on/off that inflates the rear air bags; the vehicle does a check when it's started, and will add air when you add weight to the cargo area or add a full load of passengers.

Does the vehicle start after sitting over night or do you need to jump start it . Is the charge light on ( batt. symbol ) at any time ? Serpentine belt good , tensioner good ? Battery cable connections good an tight and no corrosion ? Battery also good ? That is normal for battery voltage to jump up to 14 volts after starting , alternator is replenishing the battery after starting ,that draws down the battery . Going down to 11 or 12 volts when stopping and almost stalling isn't a charging system problem . You have a idle problem , IAC - idle air control valve or dirty air passage , a vacuum leak . Giving it gas and it going up to 13+ the alternator is working . Your best bet take it to a qualified repair shop and have it check .

Item Part Number Description 1 18A318 Vacuum Control Motor-, Panel/Defrost Door 2 18A478 Panel/Defrost Door (Full Vacuum Position) 3 - Defrost Air Flow 4 - Side Window Demister Air Flow 5 18B545 Temperature Blend Door (Full Heat Position) 6 19860 A/C Evaporator Core 7 19A813 Air Inlet Duct Door (Full Vacuum Position) 8 - Outside Air Inlet 9 18A318 Vacuum Control Motor-, Air Inlet Duct Door 10 - Recirculated Air Inlet 11 18527 Blower Motor 12 19A566 A/C Vacuum Reservoir Tank and Bracket 13 - Vacuum from the Engine Intake Manifold 14 19B888 A/C-Heater Function Selector Switch 15 - Vacuum to the 4x4 Hub Solenoids 16 18495 Water Diverter Valve (Full Vacuum Position) 17 18476 Heater Core 18 18A559 Floor/Panel Door (Full Vacuum Position) 19 - Floor Air Flow 20 18A318 Vacuum Control Motor-, Floor/Panel Door 21 - Panel Vent Air Flow

1 - Radiator
2 - Thermostat housing
3 - Radiator bottom hose
4 - Viscous fan
5 - Water pump
6 - Radiator top hose
7 - Heater return hose
8 - Coolant supply hose
9 - By-pass hose
10 - Radiator bleed (purge) hose
11 - Bleed (purge) hose, thermostat housing
12 - 'Y' piece ejector
13 - Expansion tank
14 - Heater rail
15 - Heater unit
16 - Heater feed hose
17 - Intercooler
18 - Air cleaner
19 - Air feed hose
20 - Turbocharger
21 - Charge air supply hose
22 - Cooled charge air supply hose
23 - Exhaust manifold
24 - Engine oil cooler
25 - Feed pipe, engine oil cooler
26 - Return pipe, engine oil cooler
27 - Oil filter

Just some suggestions.
Clean the end of your key and get an earbud and metho/alchol and clean the keyhole sensor.
Change the battery in your key.
Check the charge level on the battery. Recharge.
Check alternator charging.
climatecontrol diagnostic menu

To enter mode press "REST" for more than 5 seconds. Use the left & right Auto buttons to scroll.
standing
value code description
15 1 Inside Temperature
11 2 Outside Temperature
11 3 Left Heater Core Temperature
10 4 Right Heater Core Temperature
10 5 Evaporator Temperature
11 6 Engine Coolant Temperature
3 7 Refrigerant Pressure: displayed as 1.xx bar where xx is in the display
10 8 Refrigerant Temperature
0 9 Not Used
1.2 10 Blower Control Voltage: 6.0V
11 Emission Sensor: 2.4V
12 Sun Sensor: 4.1V
0 20 Control Current for Auxiliary Fan: 3.2mA (Is this value too low?)
0 21 Engine RPM: 44 => 4,400rpm
0 22 Vehicle Speed
0 23 Terminal 58d: 32 or 32% of Full Battery Charge
12.0 24 Battery Voltage: 13.3V
8 40 Software Status: 164
5 41 Hardware Status: 85
216 42 Variant Code 1st numerical value
14 43 Variant Code 2nd numerical value

50 Not assigned
51 Not assigned
52 Not assignd
60 Roof OPE/CLO
61 Left side air outlet, knurled wheel potentiometer Volts
62 Vacuum actuator 46, feedback potentiometer Volts
63 Center outlet, knurled wheel potentiometer Volts
64 Vacuum actuator 47, feedback potentiometer Volts
65 Right side air outlet, knurled wheel potentiometer Volts
66 Vacuum actuator 48, feedback potentiometer Volts

Item 63 is the input signal from the thumbwheel controlfor the center vent, and 64 is the feedback signal to the controller giving it the position of the vent flap. As you move the thumbwheel these values should continously vary from a minimum of roughly .7 to 4.5.

I think you are looking at the voltmeter, not the ammeter.

11 volts means the alternator is not charging if the engine is running. There are some conditions that exist in normal operation where the voltmeter can register 11 volts and it not be an issue, but if you are driving down the road, and only have 11 volts- the vehicle is running off the battery to keep the engine functioning for only a few miles more.

An ammeter in a car or truck has to be able to handle the full output of the alternator- which can range from 35 amps for some, up to 165 amps for others and higher. It is this reason ammeters in motor vehicles rarely have any numbers on them, just plus or minus sign, or the words charge discharge.

Hi,
With engine running, A/C on max and blower on full speed.
Allow 5 minutes running time like this for system to fully circulate.
Attatch guage to low pressure port.
At 80 degrees outside temperature, you should get between 45-50PSI reading on guage for a full charge. If you have a good reading like that and your A/C is not blowing around 36-40 degree air, most likely you have air in the system. Then a complete discharge of refrigerant in the system and full re-charge is indicated.
Mike

Most likely your problem is the same as mine, which means you have a crack in your air compressor therefore no matter how full you fill the freon it will always drain (or blow) right out. Solution - get a new air compressor. Try to find one in a chop shop junk yard type place if you can do it yourself.

Alternate problem - freon can lose its charge. You can take it to just about any auto store and get the freon charged up for about $70. If that doesn't fix the problem it is likely the compressor.

problem with blend door either stuck or linkage problem

Safing Sensor Diagnostic Circuit Open Or Low Resistance In A Primary Crash Sensor.

Each primary crash sensor has an internal resistor. The diagnostic monitor uses the resistor in the primary crash sensors in combination with the two resistors inside the diagnostic monitor to create a tightly controlled diagnostic voltage at Pin 11 (Circuit 614, GY/O). The primary crash sensors are tied together inside the diagnostic monitor at Pins 17 (Circuit 617, PK/O), 18 (Circuit 619, PK/W) and 19 (Circuit 621, W/Y). Therefore, the resistors in the sensors are connected in parallel. The parallel combination of all three sensor resistors should be equal to 393 ohms. The resistance of each sensor should be 1180 (± 20 ohms) ohms. The resistors inside the diagnostic monitor are connected to Pins 11 (Circuit 614, GY/O) and 12 (Circuit 623, P/W) and are equal in value. Note that Circuits 614 and 623 are tied together inside the safing sensor. Therefore, the two resistors inside the diagnostic monitor are connected in parallel and will function the same as one resistor of half the original value. Current flows from Pins 1 and 6 through the resistors, out to Circuits 614 (GY/O) and 623 (P/W) on Pins 11 and 12, through the LH B-pillar safing sensor and out to the driver side air bag. Current flows through the driver side air bag and into Pin 10 (Circuit 615, GY/W). Current then flows from Pin 10 through the diode inside the diagnostic monitor and out to the primary crash sensors through Pins 17, 18 and 19. The current flows through each primary crash sensor resistor and ends at the case ground of each sensor. Pin 11 is the midpoint of the resistor network and voltage at Pin 11 will change with vehicle charging system voltage. The expected voltage at Pin 11 is shown in the table below. The diagnostic monitor measures the vehicle charging system voltage at Pin 13 (battery input). By measuring the voltage at Pin 13, the diagnostic monitor can accurately predict what the voltage at Pin 11 should be in a normal functioning system. If the connection between Circuits 614 (GY/O) and 623 (P/W) inside the safing sensor is broken, then the resistor on Pin 12 is no longer in the diagnostic circuit. Both resistors are needed to pull up the diagnostic voltage to the correct value. In this situation, the resistor on Pin 11 is the only resistor inside the diagnostic monitor pulling up the voltage. Therefore, the voltage on Pin 11 will be half of the normal expected voltage and the voltage on Pin 12 will be about equal to the vehicle charging system voltage. The diagnostic monitor does not measure the voltage on Pin 12, so the monitor bases its decision strictly on the voltage at Pin 11. If the voltage at Pin 11 is lower than it should be, the monitor will flash Diagnostic Trouble Code 24. Another situation that can cause low voltage at Pin 11 is a drop in primary crash sensor resistance (resistance is too low). If this occurs, the voltage at Pin 11 will be pulled down to a lower than normal value because the parallel combination resistance of the primary crash sensors will be less than 393 ohms. In this situation, the voltage at Pins 11 and 12 will be identical, but the monitor does not measure the voltage at Pin 12. Therefore, a primary crash sensor with low resistance may cause low voltage at Pin 11 and the monitor will flash Diagnostic Trouble Code 24 on the air bag indicator.
Here is a wiring schematic of this.
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh43/chuck943/93mustangairbag.gif