Check the battery and is ok. changed hose and thermostat replaced. when i try to start vehicle the sounds like the car is flooding or out of gas. when car is started and gets hot the motor cuts off and will not restart.
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sounds to me like your starting motor has gone bad or is going bad. If you can locate the starting motor, give it a few taps with a hammer (not too heavy), which should loosen up the brushes inside. Try starting the car after that. Hopefully you can get it started. If not, you may have to replace the starting motor altogether.
the only way you should have to replace a heater core is if it leaks or gets plugged up. When motor is hot feel the two hoses that go to the heater core. one should be fairly hot and the other should be the same but if one is just warm then follow hose and locate a flow valve and check for operation. OPening and closing with control hot /cold knob. Check coolant level in radiator while cold as well as fill reservoir to full when cold. Also remove radiator cap when cold and warm truck and check for flow of coolant. if lower radiator hose is hot hot hot and upper hose is cool then thermostat may not be opening properly, or thermostat is stuck open not building heat. You didnt mention if truck was overheating?? If its not i'd check for the flow valve operation, if it is i'd make sure coolant levels are full and waterpump is working.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Coolant until level is below thermostat
Support bracket located near rear of alternator (A/C Vehicles)
Alternator drive belt by attaching a wrench to the pulley mounting bolt of the automatic tensioner, rotating the tensioner clockwise to release belt tension, and removing the belt:
Alternator mounting bolts, but do not remove any wiring at alternator
4WD indicator lamp wiring harness (4WD vehicles)
Alternator and position aside
WARNING When servicing constant tension hose clamps, use only tools designed for servicing this type of clamp, such as special clamp tool (number 6094). Always wear safety glasses when servicing constant tension clamps. Always replace constant tension clamps with the same numbered clamp.
Radiator hose clamp and upper radiator hose at thermostat housing and position wiring harness aside to gain access to thermostat
Thermostat housing mounting bolts, thermostat housing, gasket and thermostat
Clean intake manifold and thermostat housing mating surfaces.
Install or connect the following:
Thermostat (spring side down) into recessed machined groove on intake manifold
Gasket on intake manifold and over thermostat
Thermostat housing to intake manifold
NOTE: The word FRONT is stamped on housing and must be placed towards front of vehicle.
Housing-to-intake manifold bolts.
Torque to: 200 inch lbs. (23 Nm)
Upper radiator hose to thermostat housing
Alternator (A/C Vehicles)
Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
Torque to: 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)
Drive belt over all pulleys except idler pulley
Socket/wrench to pulley mounting bolt of automatic tensioner and rotate clockwise
Belt over idler pulley, let tensioner rotate back into place and remove wrench
I'll be honest, it sounds like the transmitter in the key isnt reading. A key remake without the factory transmitter will start the car, but only keep it running for a few seconds before cutting power to the motor. your electronics will still run....This may be too obvious, but honestly, thats what it sounds like.
The thermostat is mounted under the thermostat housing, which is what the upper radiator hose attaches to on the engine.
Drain your coolant, make sure the vehicle is cold.
Un fasten the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing, then unbolt the 2 bolts holding the housing down. carefully tap on it to pop it free. clean all surfaces to prepare for reinstallation. Remove the old thermostat, install the new one, and replace the gasket too. Refill with coolant after you secure thermostat housing and reattach the radiator hose. start the engine, warm up vehicle and check for leaks. Re check the level of coolant after the engine is cool again.
Several things can cause this overheating. Have you recently done a: 1. Check Hoses for Leaks 2. Check Radiator for Leaks --- Also, Change Radiator Cap ( can loose pressure there if cap is bad) 3. Check Water Pump for Leaks. If Water Pump is bad, you will hear a loud noise from it 4 Complete Tune Up? Should be done at least 1x a Yr. Depending on how much you drive the Vehicle. Includes: Plugs, Plug Wires, Gas Filter, Air Breather Filter, PCV Valve, Adjust Timing, Check Belts -- see if worn 5. Changed your Thermostat & Gasket and have the correct degree Thermostat in the Vehicle? 6.. Had your Radiator Rod and Cleaned out? 7. Temperture Sending Unit (located near Thermostat) could be bad 8. 02-Sensor(Generally located in the Exhaust Manifold - needs a socket with a space in it to allow the Socket to fit over this top wire of the 0-2 Sensor ) 9. Change oil and oil Filter. 10. Change Gas Tank Cap ---
Do all this yearly ( except the Radiator Rod & Clean ( do every 2-3 yrs), and you should not have any over-heating nor stalling out, etc. and should pass emissions as well.