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Loud hum coming from engine that stops when you give it gas. I was told it could be the idle speed control switch what other symptoms will I get from this problem?

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Yes check the idle speed sensor also the map sensor

Posted on Jul 31, 2009

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Engine idle very lumpy and wanting to stall on gear down shift. Sometimes poor on starting until fuel gets through then car runs well but very smelly.


SYMPTOM 1: ROUGH IDLE IN THE COLD

The engine will not idle smoothly, or it stalls during idle when the engine is cold. When the engine is cold and you take your foot off the gas pedal, the engine runs very rough and may even stall. When you run the engine at higher speeds, it seems to run fine, or at least it runs more smoothly.
Possible causes:
  1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
    The Fix: Replace accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
  2. There may be a vacuum leak.
    The Fix: Check and replace the vacuum lines as required.
  3. There may be some type of ignition problem.
    The Fix: Check and replace the distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires, and spark plugs.
  4. The ignition timing may be set wrong.
    The Fix: Adjust the ignition timing.
  5. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
    The Fix: Check engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace components as required.
  1. The EGR valve may be bad.
    The Fix: Replace the EGR valve.
  2. The engine may have mechanical problems.
    The Fix: Check the compression to determine the engine's condition.
  3. Idle speed is set incorrectly.
    The Fix: Set idle speed to the car's original settings.
  4. The fuel injectors may be dirty.
    The Fix: Clean or replace the fuel injectors.

SYMPTOM 2: ROUGH IDLE WITH WARM ENGINE

The engine will not idle smoothly, or it stalls during idle when the engine is warm. When the engine is warm or hot and you take your foot off the gas pedal, the engine runs very rough and may even stall. When you run the engine at higher speeds, it seems to run fine.
Possible causes:
  1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
    The Fix: Replace accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
  2. There may be a vacuum leak.
    The Fix: Check and replace vacuum lines as required.
  3. The fuel pressure regulator may be operating at too low a pressure.
    The Fix: Check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Replace fuel pressure regulator. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
  4. Idle speed set incorrectly.
    The Fix: Set idle speed to specs.
  5. There may be some type of ignition problem.
    The Fix: Check and replace distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs.
  6. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
    The Fix: Check engine control systems with a scan tool. Test circuits and repair or replace components as required. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
  7. The EGR valve may be bad.
    The Fix: Replace EGR valve.
  1. The engine may have mechanical problems.
    The Fix: Check compression to determine engine condition.
  2. The fuel injectors may be dirty.
    The Fix: Clean or replace fuel injectors.

SYMPTOM 3: FAST IDLING

The engine idles too fast. After the engine has run long enough to become warm, the idle speed does not come down to normal. You really notice it when you come to a stop and must have to push ******* the brake pedal to keep the car from moving.
Possible causes:
  1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
    The Fix: Replace the accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
  2. The engine may be overheating.
    The Fix: Check and repair the cooling system.
  3. The fuel pressure regulator may be operating at too low a pressure.
    The Fix: Check fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Replace fuel pressure regulator. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
  1. The ignition timing may be set wrong.
    The Fix: Adjust the ignition timing.
  2. There may be some type of ignition problem.
    The Fix: Check and replace the distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs.
  3. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
    The Fix: Check the engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace the components as required.
  4. There may be a vacuum leak.
    The Fix: Check and replace vacuum lines as required.
  5. You have a bad idle speed control unit.
    The Fix: Replace the idle speed control unit.
  6. The alternator may not be working properly.
    The Fix: Replace the alternator.

SYMPTOM 4: STALLING UPON STOPPING

Car stalls when stopped quickly. You are driving along and everything is just fine ... until you let off the gas pedal and apply the brakes. The engine starts shaking and may even stall. Not a good thing to happen because you lose power steering when the engine dies and could risk an accident.
Possible causes:
  1. There may be a serious vacuum leak.
    The Fix: Check and replace the vacuum lines as required.
  2. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
    The Fix: Check the engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace the components as required. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
  3. Broken linkage.
    The Fix: Repair or replace the linkage as required.
Idling issues can be very frustrating, but with some patient troubleshooting, you'll have a real chance at figuring it out. Remember to always check your engine idle with the air conditioning and defroster turned off, as both of these systems are designed to change the idle when they are on due to the air conditioning system's demands on the engine.

Aug 25, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1986 isuzu pickup it is a 2.3L 4cyl 5 speed 4x4, whenever it is given higher gas it tends to knock quite loudly, timing belt is fine and all fluids seem to be up where they should be.


the knock is most likely detonation or spontaneous combustion
it comes from incorrect air / fuel ratio, incorrect ignition timing,
incorrect rpm for the throttle setting
It is detrimental to the engine as the increased combustion temperatures will melt piston tops if allowed to persist unfixed
start by running the fault codes to find the problem area
( most likely a heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) in the exhaust manifold not reporting correctly to the ECM which controls the injector settings

Sep 28, 2016 | 1986 Isuzu Pickup

1 Answer

98 dodge ram 1500 the truck idles funny and spits and spudders and misses when you give it gas. if you put it in drive and give it gas it does not go anywhere it backfires out the exhaust and intake. But...


Code 1683 is for a problem with the EGR solenoid which controls the EGR valve, and code 597 is for the IAC valve not being able to keep idle speed at the correct setting.
A leaking EGR valve could cause the symptoms you describe.
I assume you looked at the cap and rotor and they are ok.

Jan 15, 2013 | 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD

1 Answer

My 1995 geo prism stalls when turning left


100 % left or partial , not right?
on a hot or cold engine block.? or both.
no other symptoms, no engine power loss. up tall hills.
no loss of idle speed, 800 normal, 400 rpm not.
many suzukis have a P/S limit switch that sends a command to
the ECU (EFI) to raise idle due to driver overloading (dont) the P/S
by slamming it into the stops.
in very extreme temperatures (air) the idle can be too low.
like in Nunavut , Canada? and this switch can come in handy.
when RPMs are hard to control on a cold engine.'
no location stated.

Dec 11, 2012 | 1995 Geo Prizm

1 Answer

Symptoms 2000 kia sportage Symptoms 2000 kia sportage does not do all the time. Starts runs well but driving road 50mph almost as if ignition shut off split 2nd. Stop car and while running in drive s


Some makers used Vacuum releases for their emergency brakes which had a Vacuum switch connected to the shift assembly. This would account for a stumble if Vacuum vented out through this switch.

More common for shifting stumble to occur from Park to Drive, engaging a load on the engine, not to stumble to a freewheeling Park position. Sounds like idle speed control is sluggish to stabilize the motor.

You also have idle speed control problem with A/C, kind of shows that A/C was what kept the engine running because when you turned the A/C off, the car died.

I am going to give you some Websites for wiring diagrams. Alldatadiy.com amd Autozone.com with free wiring info upon registering your vehicle.

It seems that the base Idle speed control is not working and the A/C idle speed control is.

Also check for Vacuum leaks on the intake manifold by spraying water from a pumpbottle on the seams of the gaskets.

Check ignition Relay or ignition switch for random cutouts. The fusebox layout is on the Autozone site.

I hope my solution helps.

Sep 09, 2012 | 2000 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

Saab 900 engine running erratically & smell off petrol


The idle speed in this car is controlled automatically by the computer (ECM), the problem is that the valve that the computer operates gets dirty from gas fumes and cylinder backwash and this causes the symptoms you have, it is a common problem and the reason that all manufacturers have gone to automatic throttle control and eliminated the Idle speed control valve, it is fly by wire system. Do the following and it should clear the problem up, if not you may need to see the dealer for further testing.

To correct this problem Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (it is made by CRC) from the local auto parts store, NEVER USE CARB CLEANING SPRAY, IT DESTROYS THE ANTI-STICK TEFLON COATING, spray it into the air intake through the throttle body of the engine until you have used about half the can, you will need to hold the idle up while you do this, it will try to stall, after this shut the engine down and disconnect the Negative (-) battery cable for 5 minutes. The intake is now clean, if you continue to have the idle speed control problems you may need to seek the help of a professional.

Dec 29, 2011 | Saab 900 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have mercury villager 1999 ,when started in morning idler ok , after run for 20 mnts engine stall in idler turn off ,end stared back up ok give gas go normal , and star again idler low like lose power...


Read the following and follow the instructions for this problem.

Here are the most common causes of idle surge, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake

Sep 28, 2017 | 1999 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

93 Merc Cougar: When driving, wont slow down and motor make loud humming. Check engine light comes on. High rpms.


Hello, This does not sound very safe to drive. Open the hood and you will find an accelerator cable attached to a lever. Keep the car in Park. Disconnect the cable from the lever and then start the car. If it idles slower now, you have a jammed accelerator cable. Replace the cable with a new one.

If the motor continues to race, spray a water mist from an old cleanser bottle and spray around the seams of the Intake and Airhorn gaskets. If the RPM changes, you likely need a new gasket in the area where you sprayed.

A part that might help is a TPS switch. Usually this will make a "check light" come on, but the part controls the throttle and that is where you are having problems.

Stuck idle control solenoid (motor). This part lets extra air into the intake manifold. Having extra air is the same thing as pushing down on the Accelerator.

Humming. The traction control can activate a baffle in the Air scoop. The idea is to choke the air from the engine to bring down the engine speed. Turn off your traction control.

This is about all I have for you. Autozone, Advance, and Oreillys will give a free scan on your car. I hope you find my solution very helpful.

Jun 28, 2011 | 1993 Mercury Cougar

1 Answer

My 96 toyota celica 2.2 Liter will (5SFE0) will not idle down to where its supposed to be whenever i come to a stop. It stays at about 1700 rpm. I have to step on the gas to make come down to 750 rpm where...


Probably the "idle speed controller",(the ecu is programmed with target idling speeds values to respond to different engine conditions, coolant temp, a/c on/off etc,sensors transmit signals to the ecu which controls the flow of air through the bypass of the throttle valve and adjust idle speed top target value)
however this what the manual says,
check for defective throttle linkage or cable
check idle up-up vacum switching valve
check coolant temp sensor
check throttle position sensor.
Usually if its major, then the check engine light comes on,

Jul 09, 2009 | 1996 Toyota Celica

1 Answer

1985 S10 Blazer; Choke light comes on, overcharge indicated


As for your choke problem--- Check for blown fuse under dash labeled as choke. If ok then check for faulty fuseable link at starter.

Mar 31, 2009 | 1985 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer

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