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Re: If my rear line coolant leaked, but my radiator
If you're rear line is leaking your radiator can't be full. Not sure what you mean blow but yes will cause it to overheat. The rear line comes from the same radiator and you should be low. Are you looking in your overflow bottle where you add your coolant and seeing fluid in there is that why you think it is full?
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I would say it is possible an overheated engine which is not coolling the transmission can trigger a lot of lights. Many transmissons are heated and coolled by a line which goes to the radiator of the engine cooling system.
Probably not the water pump. The most common cause is rusted out/leaking underbody heater rear heater lines. The steel portions of the lines rust and leak coolant. The low coolant level will cause the engine to overheat. If overheated repeatedly these engines will usually warp the cylinder heads. This will cause severe overheating and may damage the radiator and other components due to combustion gasses entering the cooling system. A cooling system pressure test should be done to check for external leaks, and a block test can be done to check for the presence of combustion gasses entering the cooling system.Make sure to check coolant level in the radiator when cold, NOT in the reservoir on the inner fender. This could also be caused by something as simple as a thermostat or radiator fans that aren't working.
a leak in coolant system will cause air pocket in the coolant system around the engine coolant temperature sensor.coolant sensor is a thermistor in which when hot cool cause it resistance decrease which affect the voltage from sensor to pcm which will cause engine coolant to turn on.if coolant level okay,check coolant fan fuse and relay, if all is good,engine coolant temperature sensor could be bad or have vechicle code scan for pcm problems it control the coolant fan.fill coolant system to correct level make sure engine coolat reservoir is at full cold mark and not empty.fill coolant system check for leaks,refill coolant overflow jug back to full cold mark dont over fill, if coolant overflow stay empty you have leak either its leaking or you have radiator hoses or radiator leaking coolant.when coolant overflow jug run dry it cause air get in coolant system causing overheating problems.
CAR OVERHEATING FIRST CHECK FOR LOW COOLANT IN THE RADIATOR COOLANT OVERFLOW JUG.IF COOLANT LEVEL IN OVERFLOW JUG LOW REFILL ADD COOLANT BACK TO THE FULL COLD MARK.PUT RADAITOR CAP ON COOLANT OVERFLOW JUG START ENGINE LET IT IDLE UNTIL IT OPERATING TEMPERATURE.MAKE SURE TOP RADIATOR HOSE GETTING HOT WHILE ENGINE WARM UP.IF TOP RADIATOR HOSE DONT GET HOT WHILE ENGINE IDLING YOUR THERMOSTAT COULD BE STUCK CLOSE CAUSING CAR TO OVERHEAT.IF TOP HOSE IS GETTING HOT.CHECK FOR COOLANT LEAKS CHECK TOP RADIATOR HOSE AND BOTTOM RADIATOR HOSE FOR LEAKS.CHECK FOR LEAKS AT THE RADIATOR CORES AND PLASTIC SIDE CONTAINERS.IF ALL IS GOOD ENGINE OVERHEATING WHILE IN A LONG TRAFFIC LINE, COOLANT FANS NOT COMING ON.COULD HAVE FAULTY ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR OR BLOWN COOLING FAN FUSE OR RELAY.COULD HAVE PCM FAULT.MAKE COOLING FAN ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS AND WIRING NOT DAMAGE OR BROKEN.
DID YOU BLEED AIR OUT THE COOLANT SYSTEM.TO BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM, FILL THE COOLANT SYSTEM THROUGH THE RESERVOIR TANK OR THE RADIATOR UNTIL THE FULL COLD MARK IS REACHED.BESURE TO USE 50/50 HALF WATER AND ANTIFREEZE.YOU CAN BUY ANTIFREEZE THAT IS ALREADY PREMIX 50/50.AFTER ADDING ANTIFREEZE TO RESERVOIR OR RADIATOR FILL RADIATOR TO FULL MARK OR IF YOU DONT HAVE RADIATOR CAP ON RADIATOR POUR ANTIFREEZE IN THE OVERFLOW JUG UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL STAY THE FULL COLD MARK.WAIT AWHILE UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL STOP DROPPING.NOW INSTALL THE RADIATOR OR OVER FLOW JUG CAP.START THE ENGINE AND ALLOW IT TO RUN UNTIL NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE IS REACHED AND THE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE BECOME HOT.STOP THE ENGINE AND OBSERVE THE COOLANT LEVEL IN THE OVERFLOW JUG. THE COOLANT LEVEL SHOULD BE AT THE FULL HOT LINE.ALLOW THE ENGINE TO COOL UNTIL THE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE IS REACHED THEN CHECK THE COOLANT LEVEL IT SHOULD BE AT OR ABOVE THE FULL COLD LINE.ADD MORE COOLANT IF NECESSARY. WARNING BECAREFUL WHEN OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP OR JUG OVER FLOW CAP.USE A LARGE RAG OVER THE RADIATOR CAP TO KEEP FROM GETTING SCALDED.OPEN RADIATOR CAP A LITTLE AT A TIME TO KEEP FROM GETTING SCALDED.WAIT UNTIL ENGINE COOL DOWN BEFORE OPENING RADIATOR CAP OR OVERFLOW JUG CAP.WEAR SAFETY GLASSES.
Check the coolant reservoir and the radiator for proper coolant level. If low you probably have a leaking intake gasket or possibly a head gasket leak. The intake leak will be visible on either end of the intake manifold, located at the very top portion of the engine. The head gasket usually shows up at the rear head, nearest the belt. You could have a water pump leaking and this would show coolant on the ground under the right front of the engine, more so when the engine is running. They are very common for all 3 problems.
I don't have a Mazda, but could suggest a couple of ideas. Leaks can be a pain to locate, especially in the cramped engine compartment of a mini van.These were designed to be assembled by the factory, not to be easily worked on later. Are the heater hose lines from your engine to the heater core at the rear of the engine to the fire wall OK? Run you hands along them and see if you get your fingers wet. You could have a leak there. Is the freeze plug on the engine block OK and not leaking? My Plymouth van had a freeze plug on the block that leaked and I had to replace one. (Real pain) I also had a water pump fail. My water pump was operated by the cam belt. When the bearing fails, the first indication is a small leak. On my vehicle, there was a small passage that would allow fluid to leak near the rear of side of the engine on the passenger side next to the crankshaft pulley. This was designed to keep the fluid off the timing belt. Mine dripped along the casting and dripped on the ground which made it appear to be coming from someplace else.You will have to get under the vehicle with a light to do a more detailed inspection to get an idea of where the leak is coming from. Depending on your mechanical experience, you might want to have a trusted service station take a look. Just remember, you don't have to have the work done if you don't want to, but they may require an inspection fee.Ask up front. As far as the overheating you might be low on fluid.Make sure you stay on top of the leak by filling up the radiator over flow bottle and the radiator itself.Do not check the radiator when hot.When the engine is cool, you can remove the radiator cap and fill the radiator directly up with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water if needed.Some coolant is also offered already premixed 50/50 at an auto part store.After filling, with the cap still off, start the engine and turn on your heater to full hot.The pump will lower the coolant level in the radiator as it pushes it through your heater core and engine.Add more fluid until full.When the engine worms up, the fluid will start to expand and start to overflow.Quickly reinstall the cap.Doing this should remove most of the air from your system and take care of your overheating.(I am assuming your pump is working, radiator fan is working, thermostat is opening, and your radiator is not clogged).When your radiator is full of coolant, you can then keep up with the leak demand if it is not excessive by filling up your overflow as needed until your leak is fixed. Again, leaks can be a pain to find. I would look for:
·Leaky heater hoses
·Replace radiator cap if over 7 year old
·Overflow bottle has a leak??
·Water pump on engine has a worn bearing and the weep hole is allowing fluid out to indicate a worn out bearing. Overheat problem:(check in order)
·Leak has caused a large volume of air to enter engine coolant system and it needs to be filled back up.
·Cooling fan on radiator not working.
·Engine thermostat not operating.
I hope these suggestions help you find your leak and deal with your overheating problem.
This could have several causes. Is the coolant tank full? Is the coolant relatively fresh and a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze? Does the heat gauge jump up to hot and then fall back rapidly at some point or just rise and keep climbing? If so, it is the thermostat. Is there a leak evident under the car? If so, it could be a bad water pump. The water pump has a small weep hole and if there is water at that point the pump needs to be replaced. If none of this is the cause, then it could be a plugged radiator or a faulty cap located on the radiator or the coolant overflow tank.