Engine cranks but will not start

Did you test circuits for the sensor ,or just replace it ?
Circuit Description
The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor is a sensor designed to detect changes in a magnetic field. The control module supplies the CKP sensor a signal and ground circuits. Ignition voltage is supplied to the sensor by an independent circuit. The CKP sensor produces a magnetic field whenever the ignition is ON. The CKP sensor is mounted near a reluctor wheel that is attached to the crankshaft. When the crankshaft rotates, when the engine is cranking or running, the toothed reluctor wheel changes the magnetic field. The CKP sensor converts each change in the magnetic field into a PULSE. The number of teeth on the reluctor wheel determines how many pulses the CKP sensor detects per crankshaft rotation. The CKP sensor signal is used in order to determine the engine speed, the crankshaft position, and to detect misfire.
If the VCM does not detect a CKP signal during engine cranking for a predetermined amount of time, this DTC will be set.

Video's on youtube for testing crank sensor

Yes, it is an interference engine. Serious damage has occurred.. sorry!.

No, to the second question- sensor won't make it crank any different. Faster than normal cranking often means a broken timing belt -less friction with the valve train not moving, so engine spins faster. But you have a timing chain, right? Any engine noise when it quit at 60mph? You could watch some valve action through the oil filler cap while the engine is being cranked, to make sure the timing chain is still intact.
If all is good, check for spark and gas to the engine. If stopped while running, it could be a failed fuel pump or a problem in the ignition system- cam or crank sensor, ignition coil, ignition control module, some of the things to check if no spark.

Yes, it will. The crank sensor sends pulses to the vehicle computer, which uses them to synchronize the firing of the injectors with the rotation of the engine. If there is no input from the crank sensor, there will be no injector pulse and no spark pulse.

Hi, First replace your plugs. Second check ignition coil(s) one maybe bad. replace with new. If all else is good, have your mechanic check the computer codes. (code scanner) Many of todays cars and trucks have computers to run and control the engine. (management system). Good luck

thinc u gut some kinda internal engine issue--send it to magicmechanic online--hes an 8 time master on any engine--say 'help' on the subject--visit his tech library or listen to his radio show replay too

Have you checked the fuel pressure ?
Is the check engine light on ?

You need to narrow down the issue. Start with spark meaning does it have any. Then move to fuel delivery and pressure. Without those it doesn't matter what you do it wont start. Fuel is easy to verify just pour a bit into the intake and crank the engine. If it starts you know you have a fuel delivery problem. If it doesn't have spark then you have a coil, ignition module, crank sensor, cam sensor, or knock sensor issue.

One thing you need to be very sure of is if the when replacing the timing belt that both timing marks (camshaft and crankshaft) are where they are suppose to be. Remember the crank turns twice for every one cam rotation. So is it 180 degrees out?

Does the engine rotate at all when trying to start, or won't rotate at all? Clicking sound?
Blown fuse somewhere?
hope this works or clarify some more.

Engine Cranks But Will Not Start

For an engine to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine. Compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.
Basic Checks:

A. Test Fuses. Test both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This is done with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced.
B. Testing Fuel Pressure Test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. and most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If no or little fuel pressure is observed and there is 12 volt power present the fuel pump, the fuel pump needs replacing.
C. Checking Timing Belt Test for compression by removing a spark plug and insert a compression gauge. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds the gauge should read between 125 psi and 165 psi, if no compression is observed remove front engine cover to inspect timing belt or chain. Crank engine to observe cam rotation, if the cam does not rotate the timing belt or chain has failed. (note: if the timing belt drives the water pump it is best to replace the water pump at this time)
D. Test for Injector Pulse Remove injector connector to insert injector test light (node) or volt meter. Observe light flash or gauge pulse while cranking. If light/voltmeter doesn't respond, an ignition distributor/crank angle sensor (CKS) or an ignition module is most likely your problem.
E. Test for Ignition Spark Remove spark plug wire, insert an extra spark plug into end of wire, rest spark plug next to a ground source then crank engine. You should observe a blue spark between the spark plug gap and ground source. If no spark is observed, an ignition coil, ignition rotor or spark plug wires might have failed. (always keep hands away from engine when cranking)