Its possible it could be other things causing the problem, but seeing as you've checked most of the likely causes, it is most likely your Torque-Converter. The lockup clutch in your Stator-Fan located inside the Torque-Converter could be siezed, causing the car to stall.
Remove the gearshift lever assembly from the control housing.
Cover the opening in the control housing with a cloth to prevent dirt from falling into the unit.
Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
On 2WD vehicles, matchmark the driveshaft to the rear axle flange. Position a drain pan under the tailend of the transmission. Remove the driveshaft-to-rear axle flange fasteners and pull the driveshaft rearward to disconnect it from the transmission.
Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line a the clutch housing. Plug the lines.
Disconnect the speedometer from the transfer case/extension housing.
Disconnect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch harness connector.
Place a wood block on a service jack and position the jack under the engine oil pan.
On 4WD vehicles, remove the transfer case from the vehicle.
Remove the starter motor.
Position a transmission jack, under the transmission.
Remove the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers.
Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the transmission mount and damper to the crossmember.
Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the crossmember to the frame side rails and remove the crossmember.
Lower the engine jack slightly to angle the transmission assembly. Work the clutch housing off the locating dowels and slide the clutch housing and the transmission rearward until the input shaft clears the clutch disc.
Lower the transmission jack and remove the transmission from the vehicle.
Check that the mating surfaces of the clutch housing, engine rear and dowel holes are free of burrs, dirt and paint.
Place the transmission on the transmission jack. Position the transmission under the vehicle, then raise it into position. Align the input shaft splines with the clutch disc splines and work the transmission forward into the locating dowels.
Install the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers. Tighten the retaining bolts to specifications. Remove the transmission jack.
Install the starter motor. Tighten the attaching nuts.
Raise the engine and install the rear crossmember, insulator and damper and attaching nuts and bolts. Tighten and torque the bolts to specification.
On 4WD vehicles, install the transfer case.
On 2WD vehicles, insert the driveshaft into the transmission extension housing and install the center bearing attaching nuts, washers and lockwashers. Connect the driveshaft to the rear axle drive flange.
Connect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch connectors.
Connect the hydraulic clutch line and bleed the system.
Install the speedometer cable.
Check and adjust the fluid level.
Lower the vehicle.
Install the gearshift lever assembly. Install the boot cover and bolts.
Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Check for proper shifting and operation of the transmission.
It's probably a bad torque converter---that's what allows the engine to idle when transmission is still in gear. It locks when the car is moving, but if it doesnt unlock then the engine will stall out.
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One of the most common failures that can cause this problem that I have seen before is the Torque converter solenoid (TCC solenoid). This solenoid can stay stuck on and cause the torque converter to stay locked up, this will cause the vehicle to stall whenever it is put into gear. The vehicle will start and run fine in park or neutral but will stall out as soon as it is put into gear. This is the most common failure that can cause this.
Also a malfunctioning idle air control valve can cause this, if the valve isn't moving or responding to bump up the idle when put in gear it may cause the vehicle to stall out, the computer commands this valve to allow more air in to bump up the idle to compensate the load on theenginewhen put in gear, if it isn't moving or isnt moving fast enough the idle may be too low and could cause the engine to stall out.Have also seen bad crankshaft position sensor cause this ,as well as mass airflow sensor's ,TPS - throttle position sensor's . Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair an have it diagnosed . No guess work .
I don't have the solution, but I have the same exact problem on my 1991 Escort 1.9L with auto with 120K miles. I replaced the IAC with no difference. In fact I unplugged it, and still had the random stalling. Also disconnected the EGR vacuum line...still stalled randomly. After it stalls it always starts right back up again. Sometimes it will act as if it's going to stall, but comes back to normal idle. Park or Drive makes no difference. Acceleration and all normal driving is fine. The next thing I was going to try is hooking up a timing light and watch to see if the timing light stops flashing as it's stalling, and/or hooking up a fuel pressure gauge somehow, to the fuel rail, to see if the pressure drops when stalling....to figure out if its ignition or fuel related.
you have a restriction in your exhaust system. It might be the catylitic converter plugged or the muffler plugged. If not this check the tailpipe for pluggage.
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