How long does the bleeding carry on for from a hematoma on the knee

I am a retired mechanic. The hose is at the bottom corner of the radiator but before you carry out this task you should get more information. There is a correct way to fill and bleed the cooling system and if you don’t do it right your engine could overheat. Buy or borrow an owner’s manual or use google. Trapped air is released via bleed points.

A pastry specialist blister is a swelling in the space behind the knee. It is otherwise called popliteal growth. It causes solidness and knee torment. Dough puncher Cyst is normal these days and can be brought about by for all intents and purposes any reason for joint swelling. The torment brought about by popliteal sore is more exacerbates if the patients completely flex or broaden the knee or move around. The overabundance joint liquid (synovial liquid) lumps to back of the knee to shape the bread cook blister. Osteoarthritis is the most well-known kind of joint inflammation related to Baker's Cyst. What's more, Juvenile joint inflammation is one of another reason for bread cook growth in kids. Pastry specialist Cysts is increasingly regular in females of 40 or more age or above. Cook blisters additionally can result from ligament tears which incorporate torn meniscus, rheumatoid joint inflammation, and other knee issues.



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go google and type in ---potassium and fluid retention---
the first site up states ---it may also benefit heart health (9)
potassium appears to help reduce water retention in two ways, by decreasing sodium levels and increasing u*ine production (10)
bananas , avocados, and tomatoes are examples of foods high in potassium
there are numerous sites that deal with water retention and the affects of potassium
as for your husbands condition, it would be far better to discuss the ongoing swollen knee and ankle and to ask if the potassium would help reduce the condition or would other procedures such as icing the knee when it is hot help reduce the swelling
I mention this because following a knee replacement, there is a lot of swelling in the knee and the specialist demanded an ice pack be used to reduce the heat ( the area around the knee gets hot during the healing process) and reduce the swelling

research this on the net and consult your orthopaedic specialist. It will depend on your bone structure (porous or not), age, your willingness to participate in rehabilitation exercises and your general health, Basically if you have a good surgeon ( check references ), are reasonable healthy (non-smoker, non -diabetic) and are not excessively over weight then most replacements have a success rate of around 85%. There is a process available where a lubricant is injected into the joint that is pretty good for a few months while you wait for the surgery. Again this is not the place to get information on such a serious subject so consult specialist surgeons( 3-4 second opinions) and be guided by them

well you should make sure the brake fluid is coming out freely by loosening the lines and let the fluid run free if it dont come out free you may have to change the flex line thats at the front and if the rear carry a flex line and it dont come out free change them as well, now you should always start from the wheel nearest to the master cylinder and make sure all bubbles or foams come out clear,another thing when bleeding your brake you should place something under the pedal so it wont go strait to the floor and you should have breaks,and if your car carry abs make sure its not leaking anywere,check around the pump

Hi Monique, As you have replaced the master cylinder, what is the condition of the slave cylinder? I wonder how you are bleeding the system. The procedure is as follows. Fill the reservoir and have a friend keep it full as the bleeding procedure is carried out. Pump the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and then release it to the upper end of its travel. do this until you feel pressure in the pedal and with the pedal pressed all the way to the floor have a friend open and then after two seconds close the bleeding nipple while you hold the pedal down. Once the nipple is closed repeat the action and the bleeding procedure. The nipple must only be opened and then closed while you hold the pedal to the floor. Repeat the procedure until the clutch action returns to normal. Regards John

You will need a vacuum clutch bleeding tool, they are made my a company called "MITYVAC", inquire at your local NAPA or Carquest auto parts store, Autozone may carry them as well. Without a bleed due to the design of the clutch hydraulic circuit it is nearly impossible to get all the air out.

the correct way to bleed brakes requires 2 people. you start from the wheel farthest from the master cylinder which would be the passenger rear, pump the brakes 5 times an hold it down on the 5th time open the bleeder screw an close it, then have your helper pump the brake pedal 5 times and hold it down on the 5th time open the bleeder screw then close it, repeat this until you have a solid stream of brake fluid coming out with no air pockets. then carry these steps over onto the driver side rear, passenger side front, and then finally the driver side front. make sure to fill your master cylinder with brake fluid in between each wheel, this is very important because if you dont you will get air pockets in your lines an have to do it all over again

First of all determine where the leak originates. At the outset make a mental note that the brake fluid will need bleeding at some point since if the fluid can leak out it is likely that air can bleed in. Air in the brake fluid is to be avoided as it impairs good brake function. First of all get the whole area clean. Use a small wire brush to remove all loose corrosion. Now check that there is plenty of brake fluid on the reservoir container above the brake under the hood, top it up as needed. 1) Bleed screw : Have a friend apply pressure on the brake pedal and undo (yes undo) the bleed screw just a quarter turn. Release about a quarter of a cup of fluid and then re-tighten the nipple before (this is important) the pressure is taken off the pedal. Clean everything with a cloth and tighten the bleed screw no ore than an extra quarter turn if this was the source of the leak. Check by standing on the brake pedal. 2) Caliper union : The flexible hose screws directly into the caliper and if it is leaking at the caliper just give it an extra tighten and then carry out (1) above. 3) Pipe Union : the other end of the flexible hose goes through a bracket and connects with the metal brake line. If tightening here, hold the metal junction of the flexible pipe steady and then tighten the brake line union nut. Do not be tempted to just tighten the nut on its own as the junction is liable to rotate within the bracket. 4) Brake pipe : Most brake pipes are made of steel (??!!) which as we know eventually corrodes. Most corrosion of brake pipes occurs either at unions or at brackets where water and salt can get to work. The only recourse is to change the brake pipe for a new length. 5) Caliper body : the seal between the piston and the caliper cylinder can sometimes be compromised by corrosion. You will need to remove the caliper/slave cylinder from the car to carry out a thorough inspection.

check all the connectors on the drivers side of the jeep those are the important ones look up under the knee bolster thats where you might find you forgot to reconnect one