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Re: Model T clutch adjustment
Check to see that when you pull the lever back, that the parking brakes aren't grabbing. Approximately straight up, and down with the lever, is the neutral position, then pulling it back slightly towards the seat will set the parking brake.
Also, push the low pedal in very slowly, until you feel when you hit the low speed cam. You'll feel it. There will suddenly be more resistance at this point. That's where neutral is. The pedal should move down about 1 and 1/2 inches. The manual states halfway, this may be incorrect.
Jack up the car, (Use chock blocks under the tires, and work on a hard, level flat surface), check that the parking brakes are not setting when the lever is in the neutral position.
And yes, your deduction is correct about when the clutch oil is cold. The clutch used is a 'Wet Clutch'.
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I familiar with this setup, but the car should start with the parking brake on. I could see it warning you if you try to move it with brake set, or maybe even shutting off engine then, but I would never think it would prevent engine from starting. Is this a stick shift or automatic. Make sure transmission is in neutral or park, clutch depressed.
if rear drums then you need to remove the drums ,clean the lip on the outside of the drum the adjust the brakes up manually and they will fit snug with the lip removed ,use a small radial disk cutter for this ,then the handbrake will be right and the footbrake will be hard as well ,just adjusting the cable will result in the vehicle failing the inspection due the handbrake lever inside the drum being over the 180? position ,us old fleet diesel fitters never die we answer questions on here
The Kia Carnival has drum brakes on the rear and they are self adjusting. They can however be adjusted by working the handbrake lever up and down a few times, if it has not been previously adjusted by using the cable adjustment, then this will probably not work, and it is something I come across quite a lot. if all this fails, then it is a matter of taking the wheels off and removing the drum. firstly check the position of the handbrake actuating lever (its connected to the cable) with the handbrake off (wheels chocked of course) the lever should be as far back as possible to the brake shoe, if it isn't check that you have a little bit of slack on the cable and it is not seized if not adjust the cable off a little so the levers return fully. if you look you will see the self adjuster you can turn the notched wheel a few clicks and then put the drum back on. make sure it is not binding when you turn it (a slight rub is ok) tap the drum (top, bottom, left, right) to centre the shoes (this is important because it will give false adjustment if you don't). once you have done this to both sides, double check both wheels are still running free. replace wheels a try handbrake, it should be ok now. Check how many clicks you need to pull the lever to apply brake and adjust the cable just enough to remove any slack in it, NO MORE. Warning! DO NOT HIT THE DRUM HARD AS IT WILL CAUSE FRACTURES. I hope that has been of some help to you.
General advice:All handbrakes rise adjust from under the car,very rare behind the handle lever.Worning:Handbrake adjustment need to balance so u need to know if each back wheel brakes even,in order to see that u may have to jack the car and count the rising clicks on handbrake lever to see at what point the wheel stops (u must rotate the wheel by hand (and maybe ask for a friend to brake),with quite some force.Inspect also the interior component (in the back drum if apply,if on disc there is no need)Empiric :by driving at low speed on even road and handbrake hard,the marks of each wheel on the road must start +/- at the same point.Warning:This is dangerous manouver,the car may drift,do not steer while braking,if not shure,better take it to a dino test.Tip:if u tune eack whell at the max brake open position,the handbrake balance,and from there u can adjust the hight of the lever rise by loosing or tighten the cable.Hope u deal it.Cheers.
Remove the center console covering the parking brake lever. Locate the parking brake lever between the drivers seat and the front passenger seat. Put the parking brake lever in the lowest position.
Turn the cable adjuster locknut to make the nut loose. Find the nut at the base of the parking brake lever.
Raise your GT rear wheels using a jack and support the rear wheels using jack stands. Remove both rear wheels using a tire iron to loosen and take off the lug nuts. Take off the tire from the rods by hand.
Get underneath the car and remove the rubber hole plugs from the brake rotors. Locate the rotors on the underneath inside of the wheel wells.
Take off the brake calipers with a screwdriver, but do not disconnect the brake fluid lines.
Use a pry bar to push up on the parking brake self adjuster wheel. Locate this next to the brake caliper and it looks like a star wheel. Rotate this wheel until the rotors will not turn.
Turn the adjuster wheel five notches in the opposite direction. Reinstall the calipers and wheels. Lower your GT using the jack and remove the jack stands from the rear wheels.
Hello, My usual Brands are Ford products, but Foreign cars usually use simple, less expensive ways to do things. Assuming the brake pads are good, there should be a cable connected to the handbrake. You would usually pull the handbrake up to engage about 1/4 the way to engagement and lock it there.
Then you would go underneath the car and find the cable that stretches from the handbrake lever to a juction with a second cable. There should be an adjusting thread somewhere at this intersection.
With the rear wheels off the ground, you would tighten the nut on the threads of the handbrake cable until you hear rubbing in the rear brakes. Then get inside the car and pull back on the handbrake lever and you should not be able to move the rear wheels with the handbrake set. You then release the handbrake 100% and the rear wheels should turn mostly without noise.
Now if you can not find an adjustment nut under the car, it is possible the handbrake adjustment nut is under the handbrake cover/boot inside the car. Still use the same process of setting the lever 1/4 engaged and tightening the threaded cable until the rear wheels start dragging.
On the inboard side of the rear wheel hubs, you will find an oval rubber plug, pry this plug out, to gain access to the brake adjuster. Pull the handbrake up two clicks. Jack and support. Remove the rear wheel, and adjust the brake using a screw driver levered through the slot to turn the notched wheel of the adjuster, until the hub starts to drag when rotated by hand. Repeat for the other side. Note the ratchet mechanism on the adjuster will only let it turn one way.
On the inboard side of the rear wheel hubs, you will find an oval rubber
plug, pry this plug out, to gain access to the brake adjuster. Pull
the handbrake up two clicks. Jack and support. Remove the rear wheel,
and adjust the brake using a screw driver levered through the slot to
turn the notched wheel of the adjuster, until the hub starts to drag
when rotated by hand. Repeat for the other side. Note the ratchet
mechanism on the adjuster will only let it turn one way.
The switch that detects when the handbrake is pulled is either loose and jiggling around or the handbrake cable is loose and allowing it to move enough to hit that switch. That's not safe, you need to have it looked at.