I have a problem my battery keeps getting drained I traced it down to the 60 amp fuse outside under the hood of my 93 ford Taurus n when I pull the fuse out it stops draining my battery what could the problem be.

SOURCE: truck will not close and battery keeps draining

Ok, you have an auto trunk opener/pulldown. The battery is dead and you opened the trunk with key. SO, now here is what happened. The trunk pulldown motor and latch did not go up as it normally does, in order to catch the the trunk lid as you close it. Connect a battery charger to the battery or put jumper cables on with another car. It should raise. If not flip the little lever on the BLACK switch near pull down latch.

SOURCE: 2003 BMW X5 fan runs after engine is off, drains battery

if you mean the interior fan
replace fan control resistor driver side footwell in climate housing

SOURCE: which fuse operates the ac & heater blower.

There is a fuse box inside the car to the left of the steering column. fuse 228 10 amp and fuse 208 40 amp. Check power to the blower motor connector. Check for water in blower. I have seen water get into blower motor and short out. Good luck I hope this helps.

SOURCE: I have a slow battery drain on a 2006 Jeep

Hi
Welcome
Jb power is Junction Block power
Here is a list of tests for this problom

IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Junction Block (JB). This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:

1. Electrical items left on.
2. Inoperative or improperly adjusted switches.
3. Inoperative or shorted electronic modules and components.
4. An internally shorted generator.
5. Intermittent shorts in the wiring.

If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information.
ELECTRONIC MODULE IGNITION-OFF DRAW (IOD) TABLE Module Time Out?
(If Yes, Interval And Wake-Up Input)
IOD IOD After Time Out Radio No 1 to 3 milliamperes N/A Audio Power Amplifier No up to 1 milliampere N/A Central Timer Module (CTM) No 4.75 milliamperes (max.) N/A Powertrain Control Module (PCM) No 0.95 milliampere N/A ElectroMechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) No 0.44 milliampere N/A Combination Flasher No 0.08 milliampere N/A 2. Determine that the underhood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb. 3. Disconnect the battery negative cable. 4. Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-meter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated. 5. After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) , one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Fuse Locations and Types - Specifications) for the appropriate wiring information for complete PDC and TIPM fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, diagnose and repair the Charging System as necessary. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.

6. Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamperes (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step #5 . The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or an inoperative component is the cause.

SOURCE: I have a slow battery

It might be shorted to another circuit. Does ammeter read below 0.30 amps. Sounds like its shorting between door-ajar and radio. You have to back probe circuits until you find the short.