Question about Honda Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Did u try turning the steering wheel slightly in either direction? The steering wheel can 'jam' causing the key to seem stuck in the ignition. Simply turning the steering wheel a bit relieves the pressure and the key will turn. Let me know if this works for u
Posted on Nov 29, 2008
A LFC ( light Flash Code ) 42 is the front impact severity sensor on a 2004 New Body Style ( should not get this LFC on a 2004 Heritage or Lightning ).
The Front impact severity sensor is located on the center radiator support, open the hood and you will find it next to the ambient air temperature sensor.
The part number is 6L3Z-14B004-AA
You might find cleaning the connector might work, but usually it is a case of the front impact severity sensor is corroded inside the sensor itself, and needs to be replaced.
Posted on Jun 27, 2010
SOURCE: I HAVE A 2002, 4-WHEEL
Hi angelsr. Begin by checking the transmission fluid level. It will operate best when it is at the high end of the full range. Once you have checked that and possibly added fluid to the transmission, drive it for 5 miles and then go into 4H. IF it still isn't working properly chances are that the bands on the transmission are loose. Then drive to an AAMCO transmission shop or other transmission shop and have your transmission serviced. Joe
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Posted on Dec 06, 2010
driver side has most use and breaks down quickest.
Typically, the lock wears, and should be oiled using graphite powder, not oil, as with most outdoor locks.
However, in winter moisture turns to ice and freezes lock.
In this case, try to squirt lock de-icer (usually this is methyl alcohol or some other type).
Don't use an alcohol (such as from drugstore) that also contains water.
that would make matters worse.
If you spray enough lock deicer or even a high-quality penetrating oil, you may be able to work key and lock to a point where you can turn it.
Don't force key rapidly or too strongly, as it will bend, and may break off in lock.
You can spray some alcohol or penetrating fluid on the key to work it into the lock better.
Sometimes, you can get at a frozen lock mechanism by spraying down into **** between window and metal door from above lock.
Sometimes, you might find that the door itself is frozen,
or the lock latch is frozen, and not the key-tumbler.
In this case, you can try body-checking (not kicking) the door,
to loosen the frozen edges around door and window.
If you can get into car from other side, you can sometimes open it from inside to break ice-jam.
If this is an electrical problem (only remote doesn't work)
The likely cause is broken wire in wire-harness from car body to door.
There will usually be a group of wires either inside a cable or bundled in a rubber tubing, going from car to door at front between hinges.
Here is where the electrical connection will be broken,
because the wires break eventually as they get flexed over and over.
IN this case, the only permanent fix is to find the wire (it will be color-coded), and replace at least 6 inches of that wire (it will probably be broken inside insulating sheath.)
Alternately, there may be an open-circuit at connector to door-latch solonoid. Here you might get lucky if you get inside door-cover off and wiggle or re-insert the plug connector.
Also possible that solenoid is just burnt out or open-circuit.
In that case it must be replaced, for the remote signal to effectively open door lock.
Posted on Jan 26, 2012
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