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Depends if you are talking only the flex hose near the caliper (very easy), or the hard line (fairly difficult). The flex line just requires buying a new hose & bracket clips and bolting them on. I'm guessing the steel brake line corroded somewhere near the bottom of the firewall where mine did. I found it easier to just reroute the new line across the top of the firewall just under the hood gasket. It is very difficult, if not impossible to remove the line and replace it to the factory location without disturbing the other 3 brake lines.
My suggestion is to use a bolt culler and cut the line as far down the firewall as you can from above and then as far up the driver side firewall from underneath. Run the new line from the ABS module, across the top back of the engine compartment and then down the passenger front wheel well, and wrap it around the bottom of the wheel well to the factor bracket that holds the flex line. Use metal clips with the rubber lining to screw the brake line to the firewall and make sure it can't vibrate against anything. Use rubber hose around the brake line at any location that you can't avoid contact through vibration.
There's obviously a lot more to be said about how to bend brake line, make fittings, and bleeding brakes that I won't get into here because it sounds like the main question was how to tackle this tough fix. I would seriously consider thoroughly inspecting the other brake lines and the fuel line where they come up the firewall from under the car. I found several more locations just waiting to blow like my front right line did and decided to replace all the brake lines.
Jack up your vehicle. Take the tire off. Use a brake line wrench on the nut at the caliper holding the brake line on. You will lose brake fluid during this process and bleeding of the brakes is recommended after you do this. Once you get the line off the caliper use the brake line wrench on the top nut which holds the line to the vehicle. The old line comes out now. Reverse this process to put the new line it.
Now you need to bleed your brakes. Top off the brake fluid in your master cylinder. Have a helper sit in the vehicle. Have your helper pump the brake pedal 5 to ten times and slowly crack the bleeder screw on on of the wheels. You will see brake fluid come out and possibly some air. Have the helper hold the brake pedal down while you close the bleeder screw. Repeat this procedure until only brake fluid comes out. Repeat procedure on the other three wheels.
You "do not" need a strut spring compressor to change the struts on a 1998 ford escort.
Place the front of the car on jack stands, and remove the front tires.
Disconnect and remove the 2 bolts (at the bottom of the strut) that attach the strut to the knuckle (you may need air impact to break them free).
Remove the brake lines from the line retainer on the strut: If you open the brake lines you will need brake fluid, and need to bleed the brake system (to avoid opening the brake system, cut the line retainer from the old strut).
Inside the hood remove the circular cap that covers the top retaining nut on the strut. Remove the top retaining nut, then remove the strut.
Install new struts in reverse. To align the new strut to the knuckle, use a screwdriver to start the aligment, then insert the retaining bolts. If you cut the brake line retainers from the old struts, use plastic zip ties to attach the brake lines to the new struts.