1992 GMC 4x4 Suburban 350 engine/replaced distributor cap, module, pickup,coil will turn but not start,no spark,no fuel

Is there a tach place on the distributor cap? If so, use a test light on that terminal, engine cranking, see if the lite pulses? A pink wire should carry voltage to coil or distributor cap. It goes got with the key on? Use a test lite and check for voltage. A couple of possibilities, check the ignition module and pickup coil in distributor. Does the distributor rotor turn when you crank it? With gm bypass ignition, it's the ignition module that controls spark during cranking rpms, not the computer.
There is an oil pressure switch in the fuel pump circuit, so once you crank it enough to bring up oil pressure and that switch closes, the fuel pump will run even w/o a rpm signal, but, for other components, the rpm signal is important.
The ignition module gets signal from pickup coil, engine cranking, then ignition module sends rpm signal to computer on purple wire with white tracer. If no signal, the computer won't ground the fuel injectors, among other issues.

check for spark at the plugs then check for fuel. if one of these are missing the car won`t start. common problem on some of these was the ignition module in the distributor and sometimes the pickup coil wires would break. another thing to check is the distributor cap and rotor for damage like a cracked cap or burnt through rotor. fuel pump were also common.

Ignition control module in distributor cap

try your ignitor in side the distributor take cap and rotor off and replace .

replace the ignition module or pickup coil located under the distributor cap ignition modules work when cold and will stop firing when they are warm when they r going bad

Sounds like you replaced alot of parts for nothing.
The pickup coil in the distributor "fires" the module which grounds the coil and the injectors.
Those components would need to be tested. The coil fires the plugs when the ground is removed by the module or the key switch.

Do you have a little screw driver? there is a fuel pressure test port take the cap out now be carefull when you do this crank it and at the same time press the shrader does gas come out like alotnot just a little but alot if it does then the fuel pump works now if it dribbles then your fuel pump failed,Okay if the fuel pump works the only thing that is left is the coil and ignition control module, before you decide to do the module or the coil the number on reason for it not to start is connection to the coil I see this all the time go to the coil connection and have some one crank it while you wiggle it and see if it start then.now if it still doesnt start youll just have to test for spark and if there is no spark your best solution is to replace the whole distributor why because there is a relector that has always failed even when it gives spark. and fuel because as a timed unit it gave fuel and spark at the wrong time here use the picture included in #1 wiggle connection #2 check for spark

What I see the most often is a stalled engine with a loss of spark when driving. Once the engine cools off it will sometimes start and run fine for a short while then do the same thing again. Often, but not always, the pickup up coil or ignition module [both are under the distributor cap] have to heat up quite a bit before they will act up. I replace about 10 ignition modules for every one pickup coil but either one can cause the same identical stalling problem. I keep a few known good modules around as test units so I can just replace a suspected bad module and road test it to see if it works. Another thing that can go wrong in these distributors are the magnets built into the pole piece. A weak or cracked magnet can cause all kinds of odd problems such as stalling when placed in reverse, misfires over 1,000 rpm, etc. Worn bushings in the distributor can also cause problems. As far as a specific test you can do to see which part is failing? I wish there was a relaible one. I've tried using a lab scope and module testers to diganose the culprit but you have to catch the problem as it's happening for those tests to be accurate.

Doesnt this engine use a crank position sensor? mounted on timing chain cover.I would check that first

have the ignition module checked. It it in the distributor under the rotor, if it is hei, it held on by 2 small screws