Question about 2003 Chevrolet S-10
8 months of trauma! The original d/s has a double Cardan style...other wise known as a constant velocity u-joint, at the pinion end/rear end connection. My Ford dealer had it to the d/shaft re-build place and they did a new d/s w/single u-joint at the rear end. WRONG! The OEM shaft has a needle zerk on the Cardan joints and most shops don't know about it and don't see it and so it never gets grease. What you need to do is just re-build the original c/v Cardan and the prob. goes away. My dealer finally installed a double/double Cardan d/s!!! $1200. NO CHARGE TO ME! Problem solved! The OEM as I recall, has a double cardan at the rear end only. This one has a double at the hanger bearing and at the rear end!! I also installed the S-10 extended cab drive shaft alignment kit from Stealth Conversions. They claim even if you have the double cardan this kit will make it last a lot longer. $42. for the kit and $200 for the install by my gar. guy. I would have done it myself but the bolts on the rear end needed to be heated to get them off and install the 2 degree shims. No way I'm laying on the floor w/a torch 2 inches from my nose to do that!! Now it is as smooth as silk! What an ordeal! This is the ONLY way to solve the vibration problem. You need,at minimum, the OEM double cardan (C/V) system at the pinion connection. You probably don't need the double at the hanger bearing. Hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 13, 2010
I got to agree. ive had my 03 s10 since it came out and ive had to change the drive shaft 4 time.....the guy at the drive shaft place said that its a common problem wit the s10ii
Posted on Nov 07, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If your looking to replace them, wich is what most do today, it is cheaper to purchase a axle with new cv joints than to rebuild them. It is a very simple job in todays cars, remove tires remove lower tie rod , remove nut in center of the rotor and pull wheel assembley to the side hanging from the strut, pull axle out replace the transmission seal, push new axle in. When putting wheel assembley on, use a hydraulic jack on bottom of the rotor to push it to the axle splines and put the new nut on .
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
Could be a u-joint. Check it by moving the drive shaft side to side, if no play in the u-joints then they are not bad. If you need to replace the drive shaft I would suggest you find one at a salvage yard versus paying that much for a new one.
Posted on Feb 17, 2010
i would suspect bad driveshaft hanger bearing - to confirm, jack up back end of truck and hold up with jack stands. have someone in the truck to accelerate to the speed where you hear the noise, listen for the noise - a stethescope is very useful for this. good luck!
Posted on May 10, 2010
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