Question about 1998 GMC Sierra

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Front brakes stay locked up

Same problem only replaced calipers,hoses, master cylinder and made sure brake pedal push rod was in adjustment..any ideas 99 chevy silverado 5.3 all disk brakes thanks

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You may want to replace your flexible feed lines to the calipers. Any little bit of **** in them will not let the brake fluid out of the caliper,

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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I have a 23 t bucket and i cant get a brake pedal.when i bought it had very little brake so i replaced rear shoes and cylinders,front pads and calipers,all new lines and the master cylinder


Once you have bled the air from the brake lines,clamp off the front brake hoses carefully.Does the pedal feel better now?
Then the pad /caliper fit is allowing too much play.Is the pedal the same?Then clamp the rear hose and try the pedal.Is it fine with the rear hose clamped?If so we now know the problem is at the rear brakes.One common low pedal rear brake cause is brake shoes that do not fit the drums.Remove the drums and look at the shoes,are they showing contact wear fully or just in the middle of the shoe?Remove a shoe and place it in the drum.Can you rock the shoe against the drum surface?Once drums have been resurfaced,the shoes will not fit fully against the drum allowing the shoe the flex when applying pressure to it and this can easily create a low soft brake pedal. Of course rear brake adjustment must be correct once brake shoe contact is correct.To correct brake shoe contact,have your shoes re arc-ed to fit resurfaced drums or install new drums.Don't overlook brake master cyl /brake pedal push rod adjustment too.

Jun 24, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1985 dodge ramcharger replaced calipers master cylinder all rubber hoses and when we b;eed the brakes we have pedal but it locks the front wheels like the brakes are on


If the brakes release after the front bleeder is open the fault is at the master cylinder, Adjust the brake rod to master cylinder piston so there is at least 1/16 inch free play, the master cylinder bucket is covering the oil return port.

May 07, 2017 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Why does the rear brakes stay closed when on drive.I changed the brake pads,


both rear lock?
that be you did them both wrong?
there are adjustements that need to made
and checks,not just slam in pads
the FSM book covers how to do it right ever consider reading that first then act?
  1. pistons in calip, no seized,
  2. caliper slider pins seized.
  3. emg. brake, mechansim stuck
  4. emg, brake, not adjusted after all done, per FSM!
  5. brake pedal rod not adjusted, right for clearance to master cylinder (risks 4 wheel lockup)
  6. icing of parts, got ICE? we cant guess ice, and not stated.
  7. wrong pads, or put in wrong, or with shims wrong.
  8. more,sure,, why not get the brake man to fix this.> now since car is danger to all, you and others on road.


Jan 17, 2015 | 1996 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

Front brakes calipers locking up ,new calipers ,new lines , new mc, whats left?


only one side.
until i bleed, what does that mean.? (we all know how to bleed all 5 ways) but why do you say that.
oddly unbleed brakes never lock, due to AIR in the system.
so only bled brakes lock, or work prefect.

this is hydralics 101.
if any caliper locks, it must Be blockage
so does it stay locked for at least 5min>? unsaid DURATION
if yes, this is childs play.
you have 1 person try to turn tire, its locked, and you take your
spanner to THAT line at the MC and CRACK it open
does it unlock, yes, mc bad, no then the flex hose is bad inside.
dang that was easy huh?
if the mc, locks that TOO is easy
the piston is inside is not retracting 100%
all brakes must back flow, or LOCK.
the piston has a port there.
so the person that put the MC on car did not read the FSM
that clearly stated how to adjust the push rod gap from
brake pedal to MC rear piston.
for sure.
see this drawing.
if the piston dont retract then it can not back flow and will LOCK.

http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/master-brake3.jpg




Mar 23, 2014 | 1985 Jeep CJ7

1 Answer

Mitsubishi delica 4x4 brake problems: hi! i have replaced all rubber parts in my brake system including master cylinder piston. hand brake self adjusting mechanism in rear brakes are functioning perfectly....


If the pedal is spongy, then this almost always means there's still air in the system. The master cylinder may be defective, or possibly you have an expanding brake hose (unlikely given your description).

You say you have replaced the master cylinder rubbers, which suggests that there was a problem. Replacing the rubbers won't help if the cylinder itself is corroded.

Rebleed the brakes, starting with the rears. Ensure that the rear brake shoes are in fact adjusted out so that are LIGHTLY rubbing the drums when you turn the wheel. If the this adjustment is not done the brake pedal will give the symptoms you describe.

Check the front brake hoses for any damage. Have someone press the pedal and check that no hose is ballooning or leaking. Replace the hose(s) if required.

Check that the L and R calipers are not swapped. The bleed screw should be above the brake hose. Check that the caliper slides are lubricated.

Also check your wheel bearings. If these are worn the disk wobble will move the pads way off the rotor.

Finally, the master cylinder on your Delicia is most likely a 15/16" unit: this is cast into the side of the cylinder. Early 1990's Mitsu master cylinders are all very similar. They came in 13/16", 7/8", 15/16, 1" and 1 1/16" depending on the vehicle. Hence its possible to replace a 7/8" unit with a 1" unit and have a harder pedal.

If rebleeding the brakes does not cure the problem, and you have the 15/16" master (or bigger), replace the master cylinder with a rebuilt one.

SD

Jun 27, 2011 | 1990 Mitsubishi Minivan

2 Answers

Excursion limited edition. Brake lights stay on.


Check that the pedal height isn't sagging due to low brake fluid level. Also check for adjustment of the brake light switch or the BPP (Brake Pedal Position) switch.

Brake Pedal Position (BPP) Switch Removal & Installation To Remove:
  1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
  2. Disconnect brake pedal position (BPP) switch electrical connector.
  3. Remove self locking pin.
  4. Remove switch from brake master cylinder push rod.
  5. Remove push rod spacer.
  6. Remove push rod bushing.
To Install:
  1. Install push rod bushing.
  2. Install push rod spacer.
  3. Install switch to brake master cylinder push rod.
  4. Install self locking pin.
  5. Connect electrical connector.
  6. Connect battery negative cable.
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Jan 25, 2011 | 2003 Ford Excursion

2 Answers

Front brakes dragging


First of all you will need to raise the wheels off the ground. Check both sides to see if they are both holding. Here is a list of what can cause the hanging in order of probablility;

1) Caliper or Caliper hose. (If the caliper is not free it won't release the pressure from the pad. Always replace the hose with the caliper because the hose may look good, but can collapse internally holding the pressure.

2) Master cylinder. Not likely but possible.

3) ABS is engaging. This can be caused by a short, it is rare, but it does happen. The short is telling the system that the wheel needs to be applied.

Aug 28, 2009 | 1997 Oldsmobile Bravada

2 Answers

I have a 1989 gti, the front brakes were locking up after I drove it for a few minutes, so I went ahead and replaced, pads, rotors, calipers, caliper pins, master cylinder, and brake lines, however the...


I had this same problem on my 90 Jetta but it was the master cylinder that was the problem, I first replaced the master cylinder because it was leaking badly. The new master cylinder I put on was a manufactured defect, the internal piston inside the master cylinder was not machined enough (10mills too long) so when you applied the brakes the piston would not move far enough to release the brakes but after 20 mins they would slowly release themselfs just as you said your brakes do. The only thing that can cause this problem (if you have changed everything) is the master cylinder or the brake pedal itself, did you do anything to the brake pedal or near it to change its movemment ? Make sure the brake pedal once depressed returns fully to the float position where it should be. I would try another master cylinder preferrable a used one from another vdub the same as yours, eg year,model and country of origin some parts are different if it was made in Mexico or Germany. Its going to be a pain in the *** to have to replace the master again but I see no alternative. There is one more thing you can check I just thought of....check all your brake lines from the master to the calipers for any signs of dents or sharpe curves if the metal brake line is bent too much it will restrict the flow of the fluid returning to the master cylinder after brake pedal release but not during braking. Good luck

Jul 31, 2009 | 1989 Volkswagen GTI

2 Answers

Caliper won't release on right front brake--everything is new, replaced because of that problem but no fix


Check the left rear brake for sticking on also, if it is then you have a master cylinder problem. replace brake master cylinder but check the adjustment of the brake light switch first. the switch is above the brake pedal, make sure it is not holding the pedal partially on.

Jul 16, 2009 | 1985 Chevrolet Sportvan G20

1 Answer

No brakes 94 Nissan pickup


Hi

You sound like you are having fun !...............Not !

Brake Clamp, off all the brake hoses, and see if pedal returns ?

What have you done to the rear brakes, is the adjustment correct ?

I suspect your problem may be in the master cylinder area.?

Possibly the little rod behind the master cylinder ?

When you bled it, did the brake fluid pump out merrily ?

Let me know your thoughts !

John

Jan 18, 2009 | 1997 Honda Accord

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