98 grand cherokee 4.0 not cranking, starter relay clicks and something clicking above fuse box

Question that needs to be answered here is.... does it crank when you turn the key? That should determine how you attack the problem. Without knowing the answer to that question. I'd say check the batteries ground wire and the wiring from the battery to the starter. Possible corroded connection in the wiring harness if it isn't cranking. If it cranks fine and doesn't start. You might need to look into fuel pressure. You can probably swap the fuel pump relay with a known good relay. If all of that checks good, remember you need fuel and spark.

fixing car guessing is very very expensive.
why do that, a $10 voltmeter from walfart and bam cause .
a harmless tool. lets humans see electrons, (voltage potential or drop) just like a water pressure gauge, does.
zero pressure, no flow, dead.
its a 97 grand so my guess its and automatic trans.
no engine stated, so i cant guess the matching box, so...
we do this, GENERIC.

here is a no crank page (called a class 1 failure, dead starter)
you cant drive car with a silent engine, DOA.

first off , there can be 2 ways for a car with a good battery and starter not to crank.
what are they, the park neutral switch dead, or the immoblizer.
skim.skis. angry.

if you had checked the starter relay first.
with a meter , you'd already have cut the problem in 1/2
(saving you the cost of the other half not bad, in 5min work)
using a VOLTMETER.
so car will not crank jumper cable started, (all reg. folks do this first or call AAA Tow and he does it for you)
ok he fails. starter is dead. still.

then this car is ZJ jeep the FSM book is free, posted here
300 times now. not again. ever. search.

here we go, with path checks
PDC fuse 8 good. 12v both sides, ok good.
now the Start relay there, 4 pins
pin C6 hot all time. 12v. white wire (WT)
pin c7 LG-bk wire goes hot cranked, if not forget starter bad.!!!
if the relay clicks and c9 is dead, the relay is bad. (easy no?)
if relay fails to click bingo , (P/N dead)
pin C8 YL-RD wire is hot cranked. if is good. if not? then key switch bad. (dead start pin)
pin C8 must be 0v cranked, or the Park/Neutr, switch is dead.
cranking voltage can be 10 to 12v. ok. (lower in Alaska)

easy no?
the skim immobilizer does not cut cranking , only fuel.
so dont replace that too.

the real deal.
my photo are large and clear but fixya wrecks them. all.

4.0L or 4.7L engine> the park switches are different.

you pulled a starter with out removing battery neg lug?
is that it?
your post makes it hard to see what the story is.
you replaced starter because car would not CRANK
or
you replaced starter, and shorted out the big cable and boom
and now all things are dead. what?
ill assume car would not crank one day
and you gue$$ a bunch of parts and guessed wrong,
guessing is very expensive.
------------------------------Testing wins--------------------------------------
so no crank 101, posted 100 times. ILL ASSUME it's a A/T tranny.
(im ignoring new parts, i never assume anything works i test it)

1. check all fuses in all boxes. using a voltmeter. 12vdc both sides key on and battery cables lugs area all clean and tight x4 ends.
2. you check battery volts its 12.6vdc rested, good.
3. you crank, and the solenoid just clicks. or only the starter relay only clicks, (more later on that)
4. you see that battery voltage never drops below 11v and crank time. (11v is typ, tad less if in Alaska, or bad battery or not charged fully)
5. You then jumper cable crank car, off a running donor car ,just like Mr. AAA tow does.... same to a fault. (google how) (hinting your battery is good, I have a battery load tester so can check)
6. if this cranks ok, the battery is bad. (happens or is discharged)
7. car still will not jumper crank.
8. we next hot wire the starter small wire to big lug. keys in pocket. Called hot wiring a starter solenoid.
9. engine does not crank, starter bad. or may be battery cables.
10. engine does crank nice , my keys are in pocket ,see?
11. ok starter is good, at test 10. so we now know its ok. easy huh>
12. now we know the key line is bad. 1 wire. end to end. easy.
13. you try to start in neutral, omg it starts. bad PRNDL switch.
14. or its bad starter relay.

now we show how it cranks. good starter and battery (& cables)
keyon,
put shifter in to park then neutral and crank.? fails both?

the starter relay must close cranked, if not, bad park switch or bad relay
in this moment (cranking) there must be 12vdc across the 2 relay coil pins.
pin 85 and 86 with volt meter, if 0v, the PRNDL switch is bad.
or on 4.7L the TRS switch.
if the relay closes, then jb fuse f31 is ok and pdc f8 must be good.
and you then turn key to crank. and relay pin 87 goes to 11v to 12v.
this then is a single wire that goes directly to the starter solenoid
tiny wire , it goes to 12v and starter cranks, 11v what you see here
unless in alaska , less. (10v ?)

see red arrow what is voltage there cranking?
we can go fast , if you just do that.

the transmission switch grounds the lower coil,here.
if not the starter will be dead forever.
both fuses must be good, or same.
12vdc arrives at top left fuse, and is hot only cranking.
if the right fuse, glows above the relay can not send power to the starter solenoid.

Better check with a test light for power to the small wire that goes to the starter from the key switch. If no power need to check for a neutral safety switch or fuse. Or the starter you got is bad. Alternator will not cause not to crank over

SOUNDS LIKE A BAD RELAY

Hello! Do you hear a click when the key is turned?...If no click is heard either the ignition key, the Crank relay, the starter, or the battery are suspect...Having lights and radio does not mean the battery is capable of running a starter motor......Put a meter on the battery...should read 12.5 volts...Turn key...Does voltage drop to 8 or 9 volts? Bad battery...If all is well with battery and connections to it...Check the starter fuse # 33 in the under hood fuse/relay box...If the fuse is good that click you should hear is from the Crank Relay in that box...If all of the above is OK connect your meter to the Purple wire that is connected to the starter motor...When the key is turned 12 volts must be on that wire...If there is the starter motor is defective...So, #1...Do you hear a click when key is turned...That would point at a bad starter or weak battery...#2...If you do not hear a click bad fuse #33, bad Crank Relay, bad ignition switch...#3...If fuse is good Bad Crank Relay or Ignition switch; Crank Relay is a low cost item ($10)...Replace Relay...Stop there and send a comment as to results...Guru...saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

Any issues with hazards or blinker operation? Could be flasher relay going bad. It's generally attached to the button you push to activate flashers.

fuse 8 40a supplies power to starter relay and ignition switch, to close the starter solenoid and engage the starter which draws directly from the battery. check to see that the starter relay is closing, if not ensure that the park neutral switch is not faulty (open circuit), it provides path to close relay (ground side) on the 85 - 86 terminals. if the starter relay does not close the starter will not run. if you have a spare relay swap out the relay for a quick fix attempt. hope this helps

I believe it's one of your relays too. There are a few relays under the glove box. If you can determine which one is clicking you can change it out and possibly solve your problem. Good luck...

the solenoid on the starter is the trouble,if you hear a click sound when you try to crank engine