Question about 1994 Nissan Quest

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1994 nissan quest crankshaft rear main seal removal

How do you replace the 1994 nissan quest crankshaft and rear main seal without removing the engine

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  • Master
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There is no other way other than to remove the engine.I now its a lot of work but if you want to do the job properly then thats the way to do it.You can remove the gearbox and try.I think thats a waist of time good luck.

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

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  • Nissan Master
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U don't have to remove the engine however you must remove the transmission and flywheel, you will also need the Nissan special tool to install the new full circle seal or it will leak.

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

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2 Answers

Need to replace crankshaft seal


Hi you will have to remove your gearbox , clutch and your flywheel to get to the rear main seal. Hope it helps.

Mar 20, 2013 | 1994 Nissan Altima

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How do I replace the rear seal on a cadillac cts


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Sep 10, 2011 | 2008 Cadillac Cts

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How can I remove the crankshaft out of the engine block in order to replace the rear seal?


If you mean that the rear main seal is leaking, and it's not the oil pan seal...most all vehicles use a one piece seal, and you remove it by removing the transmission, and then the starter flex plate.

Mar 10, 2011 | 1994 Plymouth Grand Voyager

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I have 1994 bluebird nissan altima with oil leak in transmission side.What posssible causes of it?


The Rear Main Seal is the main area for an Oil Leak on the Transmission Side. You will need to drop the transmission to remove the old rear main seal and install the new one.

Mar 05, 2011 | 1994 Nissan Altima

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I need to reapair the rear main seal on m1994 nissan quest. any help please?


You will have to remove the transmission to gain access to replace that rear main seal.

Jan 26, 2011 | 1994 Nissan Quest

1 Answer

Rear barring an seal replaced


I'm not sure if this is the right part of your car but, are you talking about the rear seal on the engine for the crankshaft?

If so:

Rear Main Oil Seal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Rear main seal installation for the 2.3L and 2.5L engines 85553306.gif
Fig. 2: Removing the rear main seal 85553307.gif
Fig. 3: Installing the rear main seal on the 2.9L engines 85553308.gif
If the crankshaft rear oil seal replacement is the only operation being performed, it can be done in the vehicle as detailed in the following procedure. If the oil seal is being replaced in conjunction with a rear main bearing replacement, the engine must be removed from the vehicle and installed on a work stand.
  1. Remove the starter.
  2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle, following the procedures in Section 7.
  3. On a manual shift transmission, remove the pressure plate and cover assembly and the clutch disc following the procedure in Section 7.
  4. Remove the flywheel attaching bolts and remove the flywheel and engine rear cover plate.
  5. Use an awl to punch two holes in the crankshaft rear oil seal. Punch the holes on opposite sides of the crankshaft and just above the bearing cap to cylinder block split line. Install a sheet metal screw in each hole. Use two large screwdrivers or small pry bars and pry against both screws at the same time to remove the crankshaft rear oil seal. It may be necessary to place small blocks of wood against the cylinder block to provide a fulcrum point for the pry bars. Use caution throughout this procedure to avoid scratching or otherwise damaging the crankshaft oil seal surface. To install:
  6. Clean the oil seal recess in the cylinder block and main bearing cap.
  7. Clean, inspect and polish the rear oil seal rubbing surface on the crankshaft. Coat a new oil seal and the crankshaft with a light film of engine oil. Start the seal in the recess with the seal lip facing forward and install it with a seal driver. Keep the tool, T82L-6701-A (4-cyl. engines) or T72C-6165 (6-cyl. engine) straight with the centerline of the crankshaft and install the seal until the tool contacts the cylinder block surface. Remove the tool and inspect the seal to be sure it was not damaged during installation.
  8. Install the engine rear cover plate. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange. Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching bolts with oil-resistant sealer and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts in sequence across from each other to the specifications listed in the torque chart in this section.
  9. On a manual shift transmission, install the clutch disc and the pressure plate assembly following the procedure in Section 7.
  10. Install the transmission, following the procedure in Section 7.
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Oct 07, 2010 | 1994 Ford Explorer Limited

1 Answer

I have a 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix, it is supercharged 3800. I have about 115,000 miles on it and I change the oil every 3,000 miles, check fluids, regular preventative maintenance, etc. I noticed a small...


If it's oil, it's coming from the rear main seal.. I would go with this idea.

The seal doesn't cost much but the labor to get to it does.

To give you an idea what is involved the procedure is illustrated below from the service manual:

Removal & Installation 3.8L Engine To Remove:
  1. Drain the engine coolant.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Remove the oil pan.
  4. Remove the engine flywheel.
  5. Remove the rear oil seal housing and gasket. Rear seal removal 3.8L gm-03-38-1175.gif

  6. Remove the rear main seal by placing the housing face down on 2 blocks of wood. Using a drift tool and hammer tap the seal out of the housing.
To Install:
NOTE: Do not lubricate the rear main oil seal or the installation tool. Do not touch the sealing lip of the rear main seal once the protective sleeve is removed.
NOTE: Use a clean lint free cloth to clean the crankshaft sealing surface. Remove sharp edges or burrs that could damage the rear main oil seal. Remove burrs or sharp edges with a crocus cloth.
  1. Carefully remove the rear oil seal from the protective sleeve.
  2. Install the oil seal onto the seal driver EN-47623 or equivalent by placing the seal at an angle and twisting until it is fully seated.
  3. Install the seal into the housing using the seal driver EN-47623 or equivalent and driver handle J-8092 or equivalent. Apply downward force until the seal is seated. NOTE: Ensure that the housing gasket is installed correctly and that the oil passages are not blocked.
  4. Using a new gasket Install the rear oil seal housing on the engine being careful not damage the rear main seal. NOTE: The plastic inserts are used in production and are not needed for assembly.
  5. Hand tighten the bolts. Rear seal housing alignment 3.8L gm-03-38-1176.gif

  6. Place a straight edge on the crankshaft rear oil seal housing flange and the engine block oil pan flange. Using a feeler gauge check that there is no more than .0004 in (0.10 mm) step on each side. Rotate the housing to make the steps equal on both sides.
  7. Tighten the housing bolts 11 ft-lb (15 Nm) plus an additional 50 degrees.
  8. Ensure that the housing did not move out of specification. Repeat step 6 if the oil seal housing is not within the specified range. Replace the rear oil seal housing if the specified measurement can not be reached.
  9. Install the flywheel.
  10. Install the oil pan.
  11. Fill the engine oil and the cooling system.
  12. Check for leaks
5.3L Engine To Remove:
  1. Remove the flywheel from the crankshaft.
  2. Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil seal from the rear cover.
To Install:
  1. Use clean engine oil to lubricate the outside diameter of the crankshaft rear oil seal and rear cover oil seal bore.
  2. Install the tapered cone and bolts of a J 41479 or equivalent crankshaft rear oil seal installer onto the crankshaft.
  3. Place the crankshaft rear oil seal onto the tapered cone.
  4. Install the threaded rod of the J 41479 crankshaft rear oil seal installer into the tapered cone. Rear main seal installer 5.3L gm-03-53-3872.gif

  5. Install the crankshaft rear oil seal by turning the handle of the J 41479 clockwise.
  6. Remove the J 41479 crankshaft rear oil seal installer from the crankshaft.
  7. Install the flywheel onto the crankshaft.
prev.gif next.gif--- I'm not sure what the exact cost would be as the hours were not listed for this procedure on my online resource.

Sep 02, 2010 | 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

How to replace rear main oil seal on a 1996


big job you might have to pull the transmission out to do it

Mar 09, 2010 | 1996 Nissan Quest

1 Answer

My 1994 camaro w/ 3.4L engine has an oil leak in rear of engine. It is running down both sides of the block in rear. Oil filter is wet, but not leaking, the starter and bell housing drip oil and its...


This is most likely a leak from your rear main seal. It happens and can be a pain to replace if you're a DYI kinda person without the nec. equipment.
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
  2. Remove the transmission.
  3. If equipped with a manual transmission, remove the clutch and pressure plate.
  4. Remove the flywheel assembly.
  5. Using a suitable prytool, carefully pry the old seal out.
6. Inspect the crankshaft for nicks or burrs, correct as required.
88143g59.gif Crankshaft rear main seal - 5.7L engine

To install:
  1. Clean the area and coat the seal with engine oil. Install the seal onto tool J-34686 for 3.4L engines, J 41349 for 3.8L engines or J 35621 for 5.7L engines.
  2. Install the tool (with the seal mounted to it) onto the rear of the crankshaft. Tighten the screws snugly to be sure the seal will be installed squarely over the crankshaft.
88143g60.gif Exploded view of the rear main seal installation - 3.4L engine
Click to Enlarge

  1. Tighten the wing nut on the installation tool until it bottoms out.
  2. Remove the tool from the crankshaft or rear oil seal housing, as applicable.
88143g61.gif Rear main seal and installation tool - 3.8L engine
Click to Enlarge
88143g62.gif After position the seal on the tool, install it to the crankshaft housing

  1. Install the flywheel.
  2. If equipped with a manual transmission, install the clutch and pressure plate.
  3. Install the transmission.
  4. Check the fluid levels, start the engine and check for leaks.

Dec 30, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Camaro

1 Answer

Replacing the timing belt on a 1998 Nissan Quest and need to know cam shaft and crank shaft positions.


go here for expert help on Villager & Quest

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

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Item Part Number Description 1 — 40 Timing Chain/Belt Teeth 2 6256 Camshaft Sprocket , Front 3 — 43 Timing Chain/Belt Teeth 4 6306 Crankshaft Sprocket 5 6268 Timing Chain/Belt 6 6256 Camshaft Sprocket , Rear
Removal
  1. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03 for the procedure.
  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301) .
  1. Remove the generator drive belt, water pump and power steering pump drive belt, and the A/C compressor drive belt (if equipped). Refer to Section 03-05 for the removal procedure.
  1. If equipped, remove the three A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley bolts and the A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley.
  1. Remove the upper radiator hose bracket bolt.
  1. Loosen the two upper radiator hose clamps and remove the radiator hose bracket bolt. Remove the upper radiator hose (8260) and the upper radiator hose bracket from the vehicle.
  1. Remove the water bypass hose (8597) from between the thermostat housing and the water hose connection (8592) .
  1. Remove the main wiring harness from the upper engine front cover (6019) .
  1. Remove the eight upper engine front cover bolts and the upper engine front cover .
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  1. Remove the RH front wheel and tire assembly.
  1. Remove the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws and remove the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield (6775) .
  1. Use Strap Wrench 303-D055 (D85L-6000-A) or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley (8509) while removing the four water pump pulley bolts.
  1. Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump (8501) .
  1. Remove the crankshaft pulley (6312) . Refer to the procedure in this section.
  1. Remove the five lower engine front cover bolts and the lower engine front cover .
  2. Ensure that the timing marks between the crankshaft sprocket (6306) and the oil pump housing line up.
  3. NOTE: The directional arrow is necessary to ensure that the timing chain/belt (6268) can be reinstalled in the same direction.
  4. Loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.
  5. Remove the timing chain/belt .

  6. Installation
    NOTE: Ensure that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets (6256) and the seal plate are properly aligned. Ensure that the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump housing are still aligned. NOTE: A new timing chain/belt has three white timing marks that indicate the correct timing positions of the camshafts (6250) and the crankshaft (6303) . These marks will help ensure that the engine (6007) is timed properly. When the engine is properly timed each white timing mark on the timing chain/belt will be aligned with the corresponding camshaft and crankshaft timing mark on the sprocket. Because the white timing marks are not evenly spaced you will need to refer to the following illustration for proper timing chain/belt placement. There should be 40 timing belt teeth between the timing marks of the front and rear camshaft sprockets and 43 teeth between the timing mark on the front camshaft sprocket and the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket .

    NOTE: Verify that the camshaft timing marks are aligned with the timing marks on the seal plate, and that the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the timing mark on the oil pump (6600) .

    Install the timing chain/belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket and moving around to the camshaft sprocket following a counterclockwise path. Do not allow any slack in the timing chain/belt between the timing sprockets. After all of the timing marks are matched up with the timing chain/belt installed, slip the timing chain/belt onto the timing chain/belt tensioner .





Sep 20, 2009 | 1998 Nissan Quest

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