Question about 1996 Mercury Villager

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My rear a/c stopped working and I have checked all fuses and they are good. The front is cooling ,but not real cold as usual.

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Snorklebobby is correct. It is the relay for the rear fan that desolders itself from the PC board in the FRONT AC control panel.

Remove the front control panel. Remove the plastic cover covering the PC Board. in the front left hand corner you will see a black rectangular box with the word "OMRON" Printed on it. This is the offending relay. Turn the board over and you will see six solder connections. One or two of them may be discolored. One of them will definitely be desoldered from the board, although it may be difficult to see without magnification. Resolder the bad connection or better yet, jumper it. While you are there, resolder the other relay connections.

If you don't want to hassle with all of that, email me and I will sell you one of my repaired spares.

Posted on Aug 07, 2009

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Is the rear a/c not blowing air? If yes, it's the circuit borad in the front control head. I resolder them and save $400 on the part. I keep an extra on hand.

How is freon level?

Go here for villager help.


Posted on Jul 30, 2009


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I have a 93 Ford f150 taillights don't work. The turn signals work, brake lights work, back up lights work, just don't have taillights. fuses, bulbs are all good. Can you give me an answer.

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I have a 2003 GMC Yukon XL. Every summer it seems like the AC needs to be recharged. It remains cold for a while and then it does not blow as cold. It gets cold as I drive faster. Today, the rear AC...

{: ) If there is a leak on the a/c lines, then that could really affect the a/c cooling. The only way to know is to connect it to an a/c machine and observe the high and low side pressures. Recycling the refrigerant may be suggested, especially if the pressures found not normal. Recycling means recovering the refrigerant and charging it with fresh R134a (let's say 1.36 kg). The amount recovered should be as close to 1.36 kg. The higher the difference, the more air has entered into the system, which may cause poor a/c cooling. Usual sources of leaks are the service valves, the fittings, and the a/c hoses' metal to rubber crimping. You may visually inspect for traces of oil along the a/c lines.
But assuming there are no leak issues, you need to check the throttle body for carbon fouling and clean it. Check your front grille, the a/c condenser fins, and the radiator fins for clogging or accumulation of debris. Check your engine cooling fan for bents, cracks, or silicone leakage. Off course let's not forget the coolant.
You said it gets cold as you drive faster. Just think about it. There's a big difference when the vehicle is running on speed than idling and moving on traffic. When running, air velocity helps in lowering heat on the condenser and radiator. Since temperature and pressure are directly proportional, high side a/c pressure will follow at desirable levels. This improves a/c cooling, even though the a/c is slightly low on refrigerant. Moreover, when running at speed, the engine rpm is higher. The a/c compressor will pump faster thereby improves the cooling as well. When the engine runs on idle, heat management depends only on the coolant and cooling fan.
You/re rear a/c is a separate issue. It could be a faulty rear blower fuse or resistor, and that's the usual cause. You need to address first the main a/c cooling performance issue before you focus on the rear a/c blower problems.

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1 Answer

AC won't work in the front of the car. It works in the back

{: ) If the rear a/c is cooling normally, check again your front a/c settings. Try to operate blower at all speed settings, if one speed is missing or none at all. It could be that the front blower is working but the air is just diverted elsewhere.
If the front blower is not working at all speeds, it's either your blower resistor or your blower motor that is faulty. Usually it is the blower resistor.
But before proceeding deeper, you should check first the fuses. At the underhood fuseblock, check out the BLWR fuse 40amp. And on the rear fuseblock, check all the fuses labeled HVAC. There could be two or three of them.

Jul 02, 2011 | 2006 GMC Envoy

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A/c front blower is warm, but rear blowers are fine

This is a common problem and the solution usually is that the fron thermostat is usually gone and needs replaising. Shouldn't be too much money to get done. It's just not opening up to let the cold air pass into the from area but the rear one is working fine which allows it to blow cold air.

Aug 16, 2009 | 2006 Dodge Durango

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My front air gets cold the rear dont at all

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Jul 30, 2009 | 2000 Oldsmobile Silhouette

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2000 escalade rear air works fine. front does not blow cold.

the rear airconditioning uses a thermal expansion valve to control the amount of refrigerant evaporating into the rear evaporator, the front does not it uses a fixed orifice which cannot compensate for anything. what usually happens is that the refrigerant level is low and the rear expansion valve "steals" all of the available refrigerant.
I would recommend having the system evacuated and recharged by weight first(definetly the cheapest way to go). twice i had to replace the txv for the rear a/c because it was stuck open(in the last 10 years! ... not very common). also ther could be a door in the hvac system that is not covering the heater core. american automobile manufacturers usually heat up the heater core at all times and block the airflow when they don't need it, but air always flows through the a/c evaporator assembly(if the a/c is'nt on it's not cold). and last the cooling fan for the a/c system,and the cooling system on the car, is coupled to the engine by a viscous coupling that could have worn out(very unlikely). if that were the case you should have adequite cooling at speed, but warn up at a stop(also symptom of low charge) i hope that this information helps usual leak sources on gm are the compressors.
good luck

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Acura MDX A/C won't come on

I went to an Acura dealer to buy the transistor for the rear A/C unit. The service advisor told me that the problem with the front A/C was probably due to a defective front transistor / resistor. I bought that part too.

The front transistor is located next to the blower motor under the dash on the passenger's side. It is secured by three or four small bolts. The one on the bottom left is very close to the carpet and the most difficult to get off and put back on.

The rear transistor is located behind the carpeted trim panel on the center console (driver's side). The carpeted trim panel is secured by clips only - there are no screws, so remove it carefully starting at the side near the accellerator pedal. Once the panel has been removed, reach inside a small hole in the metal frame to access the rear transistor. It is removed by twisting it and pulling it out. The hole in the frame is small and you might find pliers helpful.

After replacing both parts, the front and rear A/C are working. Apparently these transistors are common failures. If the A/C is out in your Acura MDX and the fuse checks good, a new transistor will likely solve your problem.

Sep 30, 2008 | 2003 Acura MDX

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