Got 2009 proctor replaced clutch brake twice don't know why this keep happening

It might need a computer reset for ignition try local garage or dealership

Jeanette, break switch is above brake pedal arm, safety neutral switch is on transmission, clutch pedal safety switch above clutch pedal arm. Links below have pics.
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I would say you are right on your idea and you may have to keep trying different shops. It could be a sticking caliper or a faulty brake hose, even the parking brake if that connects to the calipers.

Nissan been having some problem with key FOB, they don't wont to acknowledge it cause it will turn into a RECALL expensive fix for them.

I kinda souds like a surpetine belt or it could be a ball joint. Needless to sy have it checked

If your clutch pedal doesn't quite have the pressure it used to, or your clutch fluid just looks old and dirty, it may be time to bleed and/or replace the clutch fluid.
Items needed:

8mm open or box end wrench
Clear tube (1/4" ID)
One bottle DOT3/DOT4 brake fluid (doesn't have to be full)
A friend to press the clutch pedal for you

Locate the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder.

Use your 8mm wrench to open the valve one full turn, don't remove it.

Stick your hose over the bleeder valve and have it drop off into a container.
Be sure to check the clutch fluid level before bleeding the system, you don't want to let it get below the MIN line.

Have your friend pump the clutch pedal to start removing the fluid. Don't be con if they tell you the pedal went down to floor and won't come back up on it's own, that's normal. They'll just have to wedge it back up with their foot.

NOTE: When bleeding the system, make sure the cap is ON or you will just be sucking in air

Refill the clutch fluid as necessary to keep it above the MIN line. Since the clutch fluid reservoir is very small you'll have to keep a close eye on it.
I just had some extra ATE brake fluid left over from my brake fluid change so I decided to just use it since it is a DOT3/DOT4 fluid. But high performance fluids are not necessary for the clutch fluid so you can just use regular cheap DOT3 or DOT4 fluid and it won't make a difference.

When you see the fluid in the hose change completely from the old color to the new color then you know the system has been flushed and is now full of new clutch fluid. Have your friend do one l press of the clutch pedal and tighten the bleeder valve once the pedal hits the floor. Since you can't use a torque wrench on the bleeder valve, it's important to note it does not need to be very tight so don't try overtightening it and just snug it up with your wrench.

Pump the clutch pedal again and the pressure should return. And that's all, you're finished.

this video tutorial can help you.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-XhFxlkzFI&feature=player_detailpage

I don't know the cause, but did you put thread locking compound on the bolt threads? Try Loctite red, high strength.

look at the fan clutch, make sure it is good and your fan is secure. also is the fan clutch coming on when needed? where are you getting your tensioners? try an OEM unit from the dealer.

It might be the brake & clutch fluid wrong because it is too old inside. First time change the brake & clutch fluid. If the problem persists then replace both clutch master hydraulic cylinder and clutch receiver hydraulic cylinder. Bleed also correctly the clutch hydraulic line!

The air conditioner turns on even when you don't use it. Like anytime you have your defrost on, it helps dry the air inside of your vehcile. So by letting the leak continue the clutch turns on then off on then off over and over instead of just kicking in and staying on. Yes, if you don not fix the problem it will continue. I wish I had better news for you.

Stan