Tying to set up a new email - Cars & Trucks

You will need to remove the rubber accordion dust boot from the end of the rack of the rack&pinion. With the outer tie rod unhooked and removed and the rubber boot out of the way you should be looking at a nut that has a think flat washer bent up around the edges. You will need to get a small chisel and bend the washer back as flat as possible, this will allow you to get on the nut and remove the inner tie rod. Install the new one and make sure you bend up the washer around the new nut, this ensures it will not back out. install new boot and re-install outer tie rod and then it sill need to go to the alignment shop to have the toe set.

webbraymond2, Yes, you have to remove the outer tie to access the inner tie rod. When you do this, count the rotations of the tie rod as this will have to be replaced when the new inner tie rod is installed. Counting the rotations will allow you to put the outer tie rod close to where it was when you started the job. You are changing the toe setting when you have to replace either the inner or outer tie rod. You need to access and remove the jamb nut and boot before you can access the inner tie rod and this is why the outer needs to be removed first. A wheel alignment is advised after you finish the job. Good luck with this.

1 PUT ON YOUR EMERGENCY BREAK, LOOSEN THE WHEEL NUTS ON THE FRONT WHEELS,JACK UP THE CAR AND REMOVE THE FRONT WHEEL. WITH SOME YELLOW PAINT ,MARK THE THREADS WHERE IT SCREWS INTO THE TIE ROD END SO YOU KNOW HOW FAR TO SCREW THE NEW ON ONTO. TAKE OUT THE COTTER PIN AND REMOVE THE CASTLE NUT FROM THE ROD. USE A PRY BAR TO SEPERATE THE BOLT FROM THE TIE ROD END. ONCE SEPARATED YOU SHOULD BE ABLE UNSCREW THE OLD TIE ROD END OFF THE SHAFT..TAKE THE NEW ONE AND SCREW IT BACK ON ONLY TO THE YELLOW PAINT MARK THAT YOU MADE ON THE ROD EARLIER. THEN JUST REASSEMBLE THE SAME WAY YOU TOOK IT APART. MAKE SURE YOU TORQUE THE NUT TO 50 LBS.AND BE SURE TO USE A NEW COTTER PIN ON THE CASTLE NUT..

Real simple, assuming you know how to take the outer tie rods off. You have to take the clip that holds the plastic boot on off, then slide back the plastic boot, and you'll be able to unscrew the whole inner tie rod assembly. The hardest part of the whole process is installing the new ones to the exact settings of the old ones

You can probably do it ... but then ... can you do an alignment? Probably not. Let the mechanic do the whole job.

Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com

Prepare your tie rod and install the grease fitting provided with it. 1. Jack up vehicle and secure on jack stand 2. Remove wheel 3. Turn steering wheel so that access is best to the tie rod assembly. 4. Loosen jam nut on tie rod.Do not disturb or turn this more than what is needed to make it loose from the tie rod as this will be your rough reference point and at least close when installing new tie rod. 5. Remove cotter pin from castle nut where tie rod attaches to spindle assembly. 6. Remove castle nut 7. Remove tie rod from spindle assembly - Free with a hammer striking it on the castle nut shaft to drive it out of the hole. 8. un-thread tie rod from tie rod shaft holding the shaft still with vice grip or other pliers. 9. Install tie rod on shaft until it meets the jam nut. 10. Insert tie rod to spindle, tighten, and install new cotter pin in castle nut. 11. Tighten jam nut 12. Grease tie rod assembly 13. Install wheel and have aligned. Do not skip having this aligned regardless of how it drives, post repair as tie rods absolute length can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Your final alignment will not be accurate until it is set on a rack with an alignment machine.

loosen nut on tie rod..22mm wrench,remove nut from tie rod end..18mm socket,hit side of knuckle with hammer to seperate tie rod end..unscrew tie rod end from tie rod..reverse procedure to install..you will to hold down on tie rod end to keep stud from spinning

Jack up vehicle; back off set nut that connects outer to inner tie rod; remove cotter pin and castle nut from outer ball socket of t/r end; take a 'pickle fork' and tap between joint and steering knuckle to separate; then unscrew the outer t/r from the inner t/r, "counting the number of turns until completely off. Run the new locking nut onto new tir rod end; turn t/r same number of turns, and lock set nut; runt the new post of t/r end back into steering knuckle, tap down with a hammer, and use new castle nut to tighten; insert new cotter pin and grease fitting; again tighted locking nut to inner t/r; grease new t/r end...good to go!

Remove in this order: wheel, loosen the 4 lower ball joint set bolts, cotter pin and nut from tie rod, tie rod from ball joint bracket, ball joint from lower control arm, 4 lower ball joint set bolts, ball joint from suspension. Install is reverse but don't tighten the 4 lower ball joint set bolts.

torque is as follows:
ball joint to control arm- 112 ft-lbs
Tie rod nut- 67 ft-lbs
lower ball joint set bolts- 83 ft-lbs
remember to use a new cotter pin

you will need to back off on the lock nut on the tie rod end then remove the tie rod end from spindle turn tie rod counting the number of turns to take it off put new tie rod the same number of turns put back in spindle and tighten lock nut your steering wheel will probably be off center so you will need to have the toe reset on the alignment machine