I don't see any safes that look like mine. Mine does not open with a regular key it looks like a socket

Mine had the same problem. You need to get the code from the engine diagnostic. You need to open the two covers near the windshield washer fill and plug the prung into socket A6. with the key turn to pos2 (engine not running) press the black button once, you get a serie of blink as morse code. Mine was a code 3-1-1 witch is a faulty speed sensor (that goes bad when hot but ok when cold). It could also be 3-1-4 or 3-2-4 witch is the cam shaft position sensor. I had the change them both last year. The cam sensor doesn't always log in a fault,as mine did'nt but the car kept stalling, something about being withing the right range but not pulsing.
Source : My 94 850 and Haynes manual
Note : The rattle is probably from a loose heat shield that vibrates when the car is about to stall.

not exactly,but you need to have the code read that making the fault display...Normally if the car starts jerking u have a tcm issue.This can be caused be several things,but first check the code and let me know what its saying,Does it drive any different?Make sure you get the ****** flused at 30-40k miles its about 300 bucks.Keep me posted

ya theres no difference till 1999 but still relative easy to swap up to 2002 regular 2.2

When my 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee will unlock the doors but not deactivate the security system it is always time to change the battery in the key fob. Don't order a new fob, just pry the fob open (carefully) and replace the battery. I buy mine from Batteries + and they cost like $.80 a piece + tax.

I have had the same problem with my 3.8L 2005 Chrysler Town & Country. I just replaced the EGR and that stopped the code on mine (P0404). The Dodge place had to have the VIN to tell me if it had option ZXX which was a mid year marker which it did on mine. The EGR was purchased at O'Reilly's for $79.99 with option ZXX or $69.99 without. The EGR is right of the alternator and looks sort of like one the new small coke cans with a small pipe going to the top of the engine and a plug facing the front of the van. It was a little hard to get to the bottom bolt (10mm) since it is tight and close to the alternator. I used a 1/4" drive socket with a short extension and then needle nosed pliers and it worked slow but was better than removing the alternator.
I found advise on this website about the power window which said to turn the key on with the door open and hold the window switch the direction it needs to go and SLAM hard with the button still held. It worked the first time (after holding the lock switch by mistake first)!
I hope this helps, mine is fixed on both counts now.
I don't know about the brake, mine works...

Sounds like a Dirty IAC ( idle Air Control ) on the back of the throttle body.

You will need to remove the plastic throttle body cover to see it, it is mounted on the back



2 8mm bolt head ( actually sheet metal screws that have hex heads ) and it will come off.

Take a look at the plunger inside the IAC, to see if it is gummed up, Some throttle body safe Throttle body cleaner should do the trick ( I used 90% isopropyl alcohol and Q-tips to clean mine on my 2001 ).
It should look like this when clean


I replaced mine after the 2nd time is gave me grief ( seems to happen more often once it starts ) and it was ~ 70.00 at one of the Ford dealers that sell parts online ( tasca ).

My truck does it too. Read a few articles about the problem and most talked about a Recall of the main starter harness. I looked at mine and there was Green corrosion on the Starter loom. I had just enough slack to solder a new end on it.

You may be able to get another wire loom with your Vin#. After I fixed mine, it never broke again. But my dash gauges still peg out and then work. Doesn't seem to bother anything. I put on a Starter relay and yours is the same age as mine. Try jumping the Starter relay to see if it is bad.

I just changed mine this weekend. You need an 18mm deep socket for the top of the link as well as a T40 Torx socket. You will need a 18mm regular socket for the bottom of the link.

on mine it was a 15mm

I know the problem. Mine does it too. The fix is easy. Open & close doors to find which one is causing the problem. Open that door panel and find the release latch at back of door. There are 2 wire harnesses attached to the latch. Unhook the wires and spray sockets of latch. There is a ballbearing that gets stuck in switch. Lubricate that ballbearing and work latch manually several times. This problem will reoccur occasionally especially when there has been a lot of rain. Good Luck