My 2009 Malibu, started jerking and loosing power last week, codes said bad TPS, change the throttle body and it worked a few days and it started again. Reduce Engine Light comes on again

First check ALL fuses,,,,make sure there good,, then check,Computer or wiring to the computer,,,sometimes where the wiring harness conects togeather they will break or loose connection,,or back out of the connector,,,,feel the wire just behind the connectors see if its broke, or loose or backed out of the connetor,,,very time comsuming ,,also the loom going to the throttle body,, check for naked wires touching around/ going to throttle body

Hi OC, I'm glad to help!
OC, the best way I know to help you with this problem is to tell you to call the dearlership and if they offer the TPS without the Throttle Body, then yes you can replace the TPS only. NOTE: If they only sell the Throttle Body and don't offer the TPS by itself then you'll need the entire Throttle Body. If your asking if its OK just to replace the TPS the answer is YES, unless you have a problem with the Throttle Body itself like a vacuum leak or something like that. Hope this helps and have an awesome day OC.

I'LL TRY, GOOD TO SEE SOMEONE TRY AT LEAST ! IDLE SEEMS HIGH, BACK TO BASICS !!!!!! THE AIR & FUEL FILTERS NEED REPLACED, SPARK PLUG WIRES, YOU FORGOT THEM !!! DISTRIBUTOR CAP & ROTOR, YOU FORGOT THEM !!! THESE ARE AS IMPORTANT AS THE AIR WE BREATHE !!!!! VACUUM LEAKS, CHECK ALL VACUMM LINES, THOROUGHLY ! THIS LINE COMING OUT OF THE TRANSAXLE PORTION OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD ?????????????????/ YOUR NEED TO REPLACE WHATEVER IT IS, WHAT KIND OF LINE ? METAL, RUBBER , WIRE ??? MOVING ON, GOOD YOU REPLACED THE OXYGEN SENSOR, & IDLE AIR VALVE, & TPS, RECHECK TPS, IS IT LOOSE, ALSO TIGHTEN THROTTLEBODY BOLTS, THE ONES THAT HOLD IT DOWN. SO, CHANGE YOUR FILTERS,WIRES, ETC., MENTIONED ABOVE, CAP & ROTOR, ETC.,ETC.,.........GO FROM THERE, SEE HOW THAT WORKS

you would need to scan the computer and see what codes you have to start this should still be under factory warr being a 2011 unless you have a lot of miles on it

fuel pump or pump regulator cud be failin--distributer cap may be corroded--do a scan for bad codes--clean throttle body and idle control motor--get a haynes manual

Turning over is cranking
You mean will not start !!

Given it is 5 years old

Change the Spark Plugs,if you haven't
Change both front O2 Sensors at 100,000 miles
Clean the MAF Sensor --CRC MAF Cleaner

Next -- TEST the TPS Sensor on throttle body
It is replacable. (2) T20 Torx screws and a hair
dryer to soften the thread locker
You may be loosing the throttle position on start up

Then check fuel pressure, at the fuel rail on engine,
also if your not going to work on it yourself, have the TPS
and Fuel Pump looked at with an Oscilloscope

The fuel pump may be going bad

Most likely the ETC Fail Safe (Electronic Throttle Control)
Various Codes for the Throttle Body will be present

Before you replace the Throttle Body because of a failed
TACM (Throttle Actuator Control Motor) Spray the throttle
inlet and plate with CRC Throttle Body Cleaner

The Failsafe can also occur from a really bad COP Ignition
Coil spiking the PCM (computer) and coming back on both
sides of the TPS Sensor. You then loose throttle plate
position and thus shut down or go only 6 mph

I also have a 2008 Forenza. It is currently at the dealership because the transmission failed. I took it to the dealership and asked them to look into it when I got an oil change, they said they found nothing. Two days later, the check engine light was on and the car was severly jerking like it could not catch the correct gear. At first they said it was a sensor, and fixed that. I picked the car up, drove 1 mile, and it started jerking again - needless to say, I went back. They told me it could be the transmission module, but if not, they would have to replace the entire transmission. My advise is to be persistant with the dealership to find your problem or they will continue to pacify you and brush you off.

I wanted to start a thread specifically about failures within the throttle body concerning the GS300 (1998 in my case)

My symptons were:
VSC, VSC OFF, and ENGINE Lights would come on, followed by my car going into Limp Mode, where only that last 25% (if that) of the throttle would respond (basically have to floor the pedal to even move at all).

During the mornings, or when the engine was COLD, the throttle operated normal...then once the car warmed up, usually at about 10 mins, the problem would start...it happened intermitantly at first...1 or 2 days over the course of a week, then it became more consitent, until last week it became a daily problem.

The first part I tried was the Throttle Position sensor, which is on the front side of the throttle body, and the easiest thing to replace...this didnt help at all. $300 part from Lexus, $80 part from RockAuto.com (exacly same part toyota OEM)

THE PART THAT FIXED THE PROBLEM:
===========================================
"Idle Valve Motor", which is the larger electrical object next to the TPS on my 98 GS300. Problem is solved.

The Codes I got were P1120 and P1121 - Accelerator Sensor problem. However it wasnt really the Accelerator Sensor, it was indeed to actual electrical Motor that controls the opening of the Butterfly valve inside the Throttle body.

I found the problem by good old trouble shooting, and using an ohm meter to see if the throttle electric motor was getting elev, I found that the elec motor just to the left of the TPS was basically freaking out and shutting down. The Accelerator Pedal Sensor is on the Back-side of the throttle body where the throttle cable connects to, and has a spring on it. It was fine.

GS300's are indeed "drive by wire" concerning the throttle...the cable triggers the Accel Pedal Sensor, which sends a signal to the ECU, the ECU then sends power to the Idel Valve Elec Motor (next to the TPS), which opens and closes the mechanical butterfly valve, then the TPS sensor detects how far the elec motor is actually opening the butterfly valve...its a closed-loop feed-back system, meaning any failure in any sensor will cause the entire systm to fail.

The throttle cable apparently is ONLY there to allow the fail-safe of having that last 10-25% throttle when the electronic system fails...there is a gearbox inside the throtle body which allows the tail end of the throttle to manually engage the butterfly valve...the rest of the time, the butterfly valve is 100% opened and closed via the idle control motor.

tps sensor on throttle body you have a check engine light coming on light come on its start to go bad check it out hope it help pierre p.s the tps sensor can not be change you need to change the throttle sorry