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Dave Posted on Sep 07, 2017
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1995 f150 coil spring and shock support removal

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Lawrence Oravetz

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  • Cars & Trucks Master 10,558 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 07, 2017
Lawrence Oravetz
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Joined: Jul 28, 2008
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You need a spring compressor to take the tension off the springs before going after the shock bolts.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Apr 10, 2009

SOURCE: right rear shock absorber detached from the top mounting point

Turns out that after 26 years and 233 thousand miles, the original strut gave up the ghost: Rust! I took the shock strut assembly out of a 'spare parts' Honda Accord I keep and replaced the broken one in the Honda I am now driving. Mechanically the car is still excellent, but the car is destined to dissolve around me! To remove the whole assembly required taking out one 14mm bolt at the bottom and three 12mm bolts at the top, some WD 40, several pieces of wood for leverage and a heavy mallet.. Since there is a heavy duty coil spring involved, one should take out the bottom bolt first and lift the bottom of the strut free from its position, ( this is where I used a long 2x4 and another piece of wood as the fulcrum point to pry the strut upward) Then undo the top 3 bolts and the whole unit falls out. You will also need to detach the brake fluid line that uses the strut itself as an anchor. The easiest way is to take the line off from the back of the brake drum housing ( 9mm nut) and remove the horseshoe clip and push the curved metal brake line through the small hole where the line is anchored to the strut. Use care as you will need to reattach the brake line again after installing the next shock strut. (Coil spring compression tool required) Needless to say, you will need to jack the car up and remove the rear tire first to access the whole thing.

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Anonymous

  • 1586 Answers
  • Posted on May 01, 2009

SOURCE: Replace coil spring

You have to remove them - that "block" is the upper strut-to-body mounting section and serves as the upper seat for the spring as well as the anchor for the top of the strut. You need to take those four 17mm bolts out, as well as the rear upper sway bar bolt, the upper control arm bolt (at the top of the hub), and the bottom bolt on the strut, where it goes through the lower control arm. You'll then have to compress the spring enough to take the bolt out of the "block" (it goes through sideways, and I believe is 19mm on the bolt head as well as the nut). At this point, you can slide the spring/strut out of the block, decompress the spring, pull out the strut, and install a new spring over the strut. Recompress enough to get the top of the strut visible through the anchor bolt hole in the block, rebolt it, decompress the spring, and reinstall the assembly in the car. Usually when you go to reinstall it, the bottom of the strut is not angled quite right once the top four 17mm bolts are back in and the block is secured to the body. I put a large screwdriver through the lower strut bolt hole at the bottom of the strut and use that to turn it, or I grab the weld near the bottom of the strut with large ChanneLock pliers and turn it until it's aligned with the control arm properly. Once it is, put the lower bolt back in, rebolt the control arm and sway bar, and you're good to go.

Note - this job will not affect alignment specs - you don't remove any bolts used in aligning the car, so that's not a concern when doing this repair.

Anonymous

  • 1129 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 08, 2009

SOURCE: 1995 ford f150 4.9 how to remove a/c clutch

remove drive belt then aquire the clutch removal tool from Auto zone or Napa, there is a specific puller designed to remove this clutch,in some cases in order to hold the pulley while removing center nut or bolt you must use a chain wrench with an old leather belt wraped around the pulley to protect the v-ribs on pulley in order to get the pulley bolt or nut loose the clutch will just turn when trying to loosen center nut if you don't use the chain wrench to hold it, after removing said nut or bolt attach the puller to the clutch and while holding it stationary with the chain wrench proceed to turn the shaft of the puller to remove the clutch, it should pop free after a couple of turns with a socket wrench of the appropriate size. PS use the chain wrench ($22.00 Auto zone) only in the corerect direction it does not clamp effectively either direction. also sometimes there is special holding tool for certain clutches, consult Napa or the dealer before buying the chain wrench it may not be effective in holding the clutch while trying to remove center bolt.

tuyen bui

  • 1025 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 07, 2010

SOURCE: how do you remove a rear strut from a 1995 ford.

there is a tool to compress the spring.
you need to be very careful working on this job
you can get hurt very easy

Greg Stefan

  • 462 Answers
  • Posted on May 08, 2010

SOURCE: how do i replace shock absorbers on a 1995 mazda

ALLDATAdiy.com , all info , all mechanic shops are using it.
One car subscription for a year $26.95.

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How to install front shocks

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If so- you remove them & have a shop put them
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Replacing rear coil springs on toyota previa

Hi


Raise and support the vehicle

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Push down on the lower control arm enough to allow the coil spring to slide out.

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I hope this helps

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Please raise the car 3ft,remove front tire,remove the front steering lingkages.remove the 2 nut on the bolt of the shock absorber.remove the strut bolt of the wheel.get a special tools or coil spring compresser to compres the coil spring then remove the upper bolt of the shock absorber,replace the shock,replace the clock spring of the steering wheel.
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How to replace the rear shocks on a 1998 nissan maxima

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Is the 1990 f150 4x4 have a solid front axel or what type of suspension

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Why new shock adsorbers on my truck not working how it should

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Front and strut replacement, how?

Yes, you need a spring compressor. The sturt and coil spring come off as one. Then you need to compress spring to remove strut. The old one off and the new one on and then un-compress the spring and remount in car.
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Remove/replace shock absorber assembly 900s 1995 saab

  1. Slightly loosen hub center nut when all four wheels are on ground.
  2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove five wheel bolts and wheel.
  3. Remove hub center nut, then the wheel sensor,
  4. Press back brake piston using slip-joint pliers,
  5. Remove caliper from steering swivel member, then suspend in wheel housing with cable tie.
  6. Remove brake disc and back plate, then slightly loosen tie rod end nut.
  7. Press out tie rod end nut using puller tool or equivalent.
  8. Remove nut and tie rod end bolt, then the anti-roll bar to swinging arm nut.
  9. Remove outer ball joint nut.
  10. Press ball joint out of steering swivel member using puller tool or equivalent, installed on spring link.
  11. Remove nut and discard. This self-locking nut must not be reused.
  12. Remove three upper mounting nuts for MacPherson strut, then the strut.
  13. Clamp MacPherson strut in vice.
  14. Compress spring using spring compressor or equivalents.
  15. Hold piston rod and remove nut using MacPherson strut socket tool 89 96 662, or equivalent. This is a self-locking nut and must not be reused.
  16. Remove mounting and top spring seat, then the coil spring, gaiter and compression stop.
  17. Unscrew damper using wrench tool No. 89 96 670, or equivalent, then remove damper from strut.
  18. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
    1. Screw damper in place using wrench tool No. 89 96 670, or equivalent.
    2. Lower end of coil spring should abut against stop in bottom of spring cup.
    3. Position MacPherson strut on vehicle and install three retaining nuts on top mounting. Tighten nuts alternately, according to specifications.
    4. Always use new hub center nut with self-locking threads.
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if it has duel coils it has been modified with off road parts
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Coil spring

It is the coil bump stop.
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