I want to know how to change the inside cv rubber. I have removed the wheel bearing assembly and am left with the drive shaft assembly hanging including the inside and outside rubbers attached. This drive shaft assembly is still attached to the motor. How do I change the inside rubber? Thank you.
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Re: Changing inside front cv rubber
To do this right, you have to remove the axle and separate the rzeppa joint in the inboard axle. Typically, by the time you purchase the boot, grease and figure the time it will take you, along with the constant slide hammer beating, then you will decide to purchase an entire axle with a lifetime warranty somewhere. Stay away from A1 Cardone. Get a new one if you can afford it, or a good reman from Napa, Carquest, Worldpac or IMC.
You'll thank me later for the trouble this will save you.
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If you here a roaring noise in your front wheel and when you turn one way or the other and it stops. then your gonna be looking at changing your wheel bearing ( hub assembly ) , but how do you know which one to change. Well when driving down the road, move steering wheel back and forth easy, which ever way you turn the wheel and the noise stops that is which side is bad.
Example : your driving alone and you turn your wheel to the right and the noise goes away, then it's your right wheel bearing ( hub assembly ).if you turn to the left and the noise stops, then it's your left wheel bearing ( hub assembly ).
Parts book shows both a bearing and a hub assembly so it depends on your situation. To replace a bearing, you have to remove the wheel and brakes, then disconnect the spindle and the axle shaft. Not something a DIY can do in a driveway without some major tools.
There's no repair to the hub bearing assembly, seal unit, to replace first remove axle nut ( 32 or 36 mm) might need some one to step on brake while removing nut, so it done turn on you, remove front brake caliper and caliper bracket, then remove brake rotor, on back side of hub bearing there three bolt's, remove, hub bearing should slide out, some time with a little help from a hammer, install new hub bearing.
Turning RIGHT puts the heavy load on the LEFT front wheel.
That initially STOPPED the noise, correct? So why did you change L?
Turning LEFT puts the load on the RIGHT. Did you change the RIGHT?
Let's say this:
If turning RIGHT stops the noise, it's the RIGHT one that's likely bad.
If turning LEFT stops the noise, it's the LEFT one that's more likely bad.
Make sense? Turning RIGHT loads the LEFT wheel; and vice-versa as the WEIGHT SHIFTS AWAY FROM THE TURN.
More than likely it is what some folks call a CV joint problem, not wheel bearings. Try backing up and then going forward to see if "clunking sound" or a sharp "bang" is heard. Wheel bearings and CV joints only work if smooth. Sometimes a BEARING RACE is bad. Also, a bad spindle / part of the CV joint / transaxle assembly worn or badly machined. If in a WET ENVIRONMENT especially, u may want to try marine grade grease or teflon-added grease.
Loud popping/grinding most noticeably heard when turning is normally a sign of a bad CV joint. Look under the van where the axle half-shafts come out of the transaxle and connect to the backside of the wheel assembly. Are the rubber boots on the axles torn or missing? If you hear the popping only in left turns, your right CV joint is bad, If you hear the popping only in right turns, your left CV joint is bad.
ck the CV boot. if its broken you need a new cv axle, if its ok, jack up the car so both wheels are off the ground. either put the car in drive or just manually spin each front wheel while gripping the coil spring for the front strut. if you feel any (roughness) at all, that wheel bearing is bad. it should be smooth. if you have a bad one you will know it by this method. Even good mechanics sometimes replace the wrong bearing, but this 100% works every time.