Changing inside front cv rubber

cv joint or wheel bearing jack up car check for slack up & down & side to side (wheel bearing) put in neutral and turn tire listen for noise (cv joint)

you've got a bad axle shaft in the front and possibly a bad bearing in the hub. 4/wheel drive makes the front axle actually work. Theys no real pressure on these shafts when in 2/wheel drive.

Parts book shows both a bearing and a hub assembly so it depends on your situation.
To replace a bearing, you have to remove the wheel and brakes, then disconnect the spindle and the axle shaft.
Not something a DIY can do in a driveway without some major tools.

I would replace the complete axle assembly,
it would be cheaper and come with a warranty.

Instructions

1. Remove the CV Joint
   • Remove the boot straps from the CV joint using a standard screwdriver or a pair of diagonal cutting pliers.
   • Slide the boot back over the interconnecting shaft.

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     Detach the stop ring at the base of the CV joint assembly using a pair of snap ring pliers.
     

   • Pull the CV joint assembly from the interconnecting shaft to force the snap ring at the top of the shaft through the CV joint assembly.
   • Tilt the inner cage (the cage holding the balls in place inside the housing) in different angles to remove the six balls. Use your thumb or a hammer and a wooden dowel, if necessary.
   • Tilt the inner cage enough to remove it from its housing.
   • Rotate the race inside the cage--the part that holds the balls against the inner cage--and remove the race from the cage.
     Replace the CV Joint
     • Apply a thick coat of grease to the new CV joint race using special high temperature/high pressure grease (see Tips below).
     • Install the race inside the new cage. Then install the cage/race assembly inside the CV joint housing.
     • Tilt the cage at different angles and fit the new balls in place.
     • Slide a new CV joint rubber boot over the interconnecting shaft.
     • Install a new snap and stop ring on the interconnecting shaft.
     • Push the interconnecting shaft through the CV joint assembly to force the snap ring through the assembly.
     • Apply a thick coat of CV joint grease to all moving parts of the assembly.
     • Apply a coat of CV joint grease to the inside of the rubber boot. Then slide the boot over the CV joint assembly.
     • Install the boot straps at each end of the boot, and tighten the straps using a clamp tool or screwdriver, depending on the type of clamp.
     
     
     

There's no repair to the hub bearing assembly, seal unit, to replace first remove axle nut ( 32 or 36 mm) might need some one to step on brake while removing nut, so it done turn on you, remove front brake caliper and caliper bracket, then remove brake rotor, on back side of hub bearing there three bolt's, remove, hub bearing should slide out, some time with a little help from a hammer, install new hub bearing.

The Constant Velocity (CV) joints are located on the inner and outer edges of the axle shaft. The axle shaft runs through the hub and bearing in the spindle.

Does sound stop when you turn LEFT?

Turning RIGHT puts the heavy load on the LEFT front wheel.
That initially STOPPED the noise, correct? So why did you change L?

Turning LEFT puts the load on the RIGHT. Did you change the RIGHT?

Let's say this:
If turning RIGHT stops the noise, it's the RIGHT one that's likely bad.
If turning LEFT stops the noise, it's the LEFT one that's more likely bad.

Make sense? Turning RIGHT loads the LEFT wheel; and vice-versa as the WEIGHT SHIFTS AWAY FROM THE TURN.

More than likely it is what some folks call a CV joint problem, not wheel bearings. Try backing up and then going forward to see if "clunking sound" or a sharp "bang" is heard. Wheel bearings and CV joints only work if smooth. Sometimes a BEARING RACE is bad. Also, a bad spindle / part of the CV joint / transaxle assembly worn or badly machined. If in a WET ENVIRONMENT especially, u may want to try marine grade grease or teflon-added grease.




Does sound come from POWER STEERING PUMP area?

Loud popping/grinding most noticeably heard when turning is normally a sign of a bad CV joint. Look under the van where the axle half-shafts come out of the transaxle and connect to the backside of the wheel assembly. Are the rubber boots on the axles torn or missing?
If you hear the popping only in left turns, your right CV joint is bad, If you hear the popping only in right turns, your left CV joint is bad.

ck the CV boot. if its broken you need a new cv axle, if its ok, jack up the car so both wheels are off the ground. either put the car in drive or just manually spin each front wheel while gripping the coil spring for the front strut. if you feel any (roughness) at all, that wheel bearing is bad. it should be smooth. if you have a bad one you will know it by this method. Even good mechanics sometimes replace the wrong bearing, but this 100% works every time.