I have an 86 nova that quits running after 10 or 15 minutes, just like turning off the key. the car had sat for a long time so i thought the carb and/or the gas tank was gummed up. they both were so i replaced both but still have same problem. i am now looking at the ignition. i have replaced the magnetic pickup, but i haven't put the distributor back in to test it. i am thinking of changing the igniter and coil while i am in there. they are probably all wore out. do you think this is an ignition problem, I would hate to spend the money, those little parts are EXPENSIVE. Please help with my dilemma
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Re: quits running after 10 or 15 minutes
Fuel pump pressure is ok? Can't remember for sure if there is a electronic spark control module on this car or not and I don't have my books at home but check when it shuts off if you have spark or does it restart back up when it shuts down?
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It sounds more like a fuel problem to me then a bad coil or spark ign the spark should be blue but its hard to see in daylight
You say you rebuilt the carb are you sure your main mixture jets are at least 2 to 3 turns out off the stops .
Try pouring fuel down the barrel fill the float bowl if it runs then dies its fuel don't let it catch unfire you should have 45 sec. of run time then adjust the the mixture screws 2 turns is base but when its is running good turn them in 1 at a time and give it 30 sec. to adjust until it starts to stumble then back it out a 1/4 two 1/2 turn then repeat on bank 2
Under hood fuel lines, touching coolant or heater hoses. Fuel lines under vehicle close to or not shielded from exhaust pipe, converter, muffler. Fuel lines pinched or crushed. Fuel filter changed recently. Fuel pump pressure.Fuel pressure regulator & Fuel pressure sensor.
The age of your vehicle also guarantee's a vacuum leak. It may sound silly but the truth is rubber grommets, and hose's shrink and dry out over time and the harsh environment under the hood makes it worse. Check all vacuum lines and fittings attached to the intake manifold, valve covers (pcv valve), and be sure to check for a vacuum fitting on top of the intake just behind the throttle body. Does it fit tight in the hole? You can seal loose fittings with a high-temp RTV (Red) silicone sealant/adhesive. Several small leaks add up and your engine, heat/AC, and transmission will be all to glad to tell you about it.
Aside from that, if you are still having problems, Have a look at the MAP & Oxygen sensors. Finally, you may end up replacing the TBI throttle body assembly.
Before you start working on the jets, make sure that the choke is completely open. If it's partly closed that could cause this too. Take the breather off and check the butterfly valve on top of the carb. It should be straight up and down. Watch what it does as someone starts the car. One pump of the gas peddle should at least partly close it before you turn the key. Once the car starts it should open up some and completely open as the engine warms or the throttle is kicked. You may need to adjust it so it works properly. You could also try wedging it open (I use a cloths pin) and go for a drive to see if your exhaust cleans up. I'm pretty sure that you have an electric choke and it's likely that it has stopped working. It and the electric plug-in will be rather expensive to replace so I would consider replacing it with a manual choke kit which you can pick up for about $20.
If this checks out or doesn't completely solve the problem you can get at the idle screws. You will have to remove the carb from the engine and use a hack saw to cut into the base plate to remove the plugs covering them. These plugs do not drill out very well. BE CAREFUL cutting into the base plate. Cut at a steep angle so that it will still seal on the gasket when you are done and remove as little material as possible to get the plugs out. Turn them in(clockwise) 1/4 at a time and rev the engine 2 or 3 times after each adjustment. If the engine starts to run rough or stall you are in too far. Bring them back out a little until the engine evens out and doesn't stall when you rev it. The engine should be able to go from Wide Open Throttle to idle without stalling, then the idle screws are set right.
You may also want to consider having the carb rebuilt. It should be down every once in a while, usually about 3-4 years depending on mileage. Parts do wear in there and gaskets start to leak. You could be looking at this being the source of your problems. Hope this helps.
check and clean carb, try a lil carb fluid in carb to fire, also check the usual things for a tune up: cap & rotor, wires , also if its sat for a year add some clean fuel, condensation in fuel tanks and lines will wreak havoc, and will clog even brand new fuel filters
Sounds like fuel problem. May be with the choke, may be with the carb. Check timing and fuel filter as well. Is air filter dirty? Start small and check basics, then work your way in. I have a 86 Ramcharger 360ci that looks like **** as well, but motor has 100,000+ miles without any major work done. I had an idle and driveability problem that was solved by a tune-up and carb rebuild.
The next time your car tries to strand you, here are 2 things to try.
1. Enter your Security code on the door keypad and immediately turn the key to start it.
2. Carry a few tools to disconnect the negative post of your battery for 10 minutes. Then reconnect and try to start it.
As a note to your mechanic, under the right circumstances we had a Lincoln whose drivers seat was interlocked with the ignition. The car would quit running and not restart when anyone sat in the drivers seat.
It took 1 dealer 3 days to get it running. It broke down 55 minutes later and a second dealer had it permanently fixed in 1 hour.