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unfortunately the only answer is to take the trans out of your way. you would need plenty of space in order to pry out old freeze plug and hammer in new one, of course with freeze plug installer.
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Hi there.
If your car is a Rear wheel drive then its rather easy.
Jack up the car and put it on stands all at the same height,drain the g/box oil from the trans/box and fit a trolley jack under the g/box and another one under the engine sump, remove remove all parts as required under the bonnet such as top hose any hoses pipes cables and battery term (neg) g/b/cross member, tail shaft, starter motor,all bell housing bolts and linkage speedo cable and wires,there should be a metal plateon bottom 1/2 of housing and can be removed if not then there should be able to get at the convertor bolts 4 or 6 from the starter motor hole and undo them NOW with everything removed 2 people can either try to lift out the gearbox OR a trolley jack in place of the rear jack and lower them both down untill you can slide the box out with the covertor as well ///refit new box with convertor fitted to g/box before fitting to engine.
Its a big job so get it right first time as its heavy and can KILL SOME ONE.
Using a 1/2-to-2-ton floor jack, lift the front of the truck and place jack stands under the frame. Once the truck is lifted enough for you to safely move around under it, begin removing the four bolts connecting the U-joint between the drive shaft and the rear axle. When you pull the drive shaft out of the tail shaft, transmission fluid will pour out of the tail shaft, so place a drip pan or oil-changing pan under the tail shaft of the transmission.
Lines And Linkage
If the truck is an automatic, you will need to remove two transmission lines from the passenger side of the transmission by the bell housing close to the transmission dip stick. If it's a manual transmission you won't have those lines, but you will have shifting linkage on the driver's side of the transmission. Depending on the year of the truck, the linkage is held on by either a cotter pin or locking-sleeve washer. You will also need to remove the speedometer cable. If it's an older truck, it will be a hard-cased cable similar to the emergency brake cable that threads onto the driver side of the transmission just before the bell housing. If the truck is a newer model, it will be an electrical set of wires attached to a plug on the tail shaft.
Remove From Engine
Remove the transmission mount bolt that holds the tail end of the transmission to the cross member on the frame. You will need to either use wood blocks or a jack to support the weight of the transmission. Take out the nine bolts on the bell housing that attach the transmission to the engine--there is one on the top center of the bell housing, two along each side of the bell housing and two on each side at the bottom next to the guide pins.
Remove From Vehicle
Once removed, maneuver the transmission to the rear of the truck about 6 inches until it clears either the clutch kit of a manual or the torque converter of an automatic. When the transmission is free, lower the bell housing end of the transmission down until the tail shaft is clear of the cross member.
You'll need Hydraulic Floor Jack, Jack Stands, Wrench Set, Socket Set with extensions, Screwdrivers, Pliers, HAmemr, Pry bar, Fluid Drain Pan, Light, Rags, Containers to organize nuts and bolts, and possibly an assistant to help you out.
Then follow these steps:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. remove the black plastic air intake to create some room
3. Remove the transmission fluid dipstick and if possible the dipstick tube
4. Remove all brackets, hoses or cables that connect the engine and transmission
5. Locate starter motor and remove easily accessible starter bolts
6. Remove any of the top bell housing to accessible engine bolts
7. Chock rear wheel to raise the front of the vehicle
8. Drain all transmission fluid
9. Put the oil pan back in its position but only tighten the nuts by hand
10. Remove the driveshaft by removing the 4 U-joint bolts that hold the driveshaft to the rear differential
11. Disconnect all electrical connectors and hoses
12. Detach the oil cooler liens of the transmission
13. Remove the starter bolts
14. Remove the torque converter for the flywheel bolts
15. Remove all the bolts and nuts that are holding back the transmission mount
16. Remove the cross member
17. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe
18. Remove the transmission bell housing bolts
19. Now remove transmission from the engine and bring it down to the floor by removing the remaining bell housing bolts.
20. Lastly, remove the torque converter from the transmission
To know more in detail, please refer to this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PVog9gD2o
FRONT WHEEL DRIVE, OR REAR WHEEL DRIVE? REAR WHEEL DRIVE: REMOVE THE DRIVE SHAFT, AND STARTER! UNHOOK BATTERY FIRST! CARRAMPS WILL BE HELPFUL! LOOSEN ALL BOLTS AROUND THE BELL HOUSING TO THE BACK OF THE MOTOR, AS WELL AS THE TWO CROSSMEMBER BOLTS AT THE BACK OF THE TRANSMISSION! TAKE ALL THE BOLTS OFF THE TOP AND BOTTOM OF THE BELL HOUSING LEAVING TWO SIDE BOLTS IN UNTIL YOU GET A HELPING HAND, OR A FLOOR JACK TO HELP SUPPORT IT! REMOVE THE LAST TWO BOLTS, AND WIGGLE THE TRANSMISSION LOOSE! CONTINUE BACKWARDS WITH THE TRANSMISSION UNTIL IT CLEARS THE FLYWHEEL, AND LOWER IT TO THE GROUND!
Regardless of engine orientation, transverse (front wheel drive) or longitudinal (rear wheel drive), the starter is always found at the junction of the engine and transmission bell-housing.
The starter drives a ring gear located within the the bell-housing and is normally bolted with 2-3 long bolts.
Sorry it will not work, the internals are the same but the transmission housing has changed. The key distinction of the Later 4L60-E (1997-2006) from the Early
4L60-E (1992-1997) or 4L60 (1990-1992) or 700R4 (1982-1989) is the six-bolt "hex"
rear output or tail-housing / adapter pattern. The previous versions
featured a four-bolt square bolt pattern at the adapter or tail-housing.
Additionally, the removable bell-housing is also another distinguishing
feature.
Two-wheel-drive versions have tail-housings and typically a longer
output shafts than four-wheel-drive versions, which have various
adapter assemblies and a shorter output shaft.
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