Question about 1997 Oldsmobile Bravada

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Car cranks but won't start

When I get in and put the key in with the door open and I hear the buzz, it's all good. But, when I don't hear the buzz with the door open, it won't start. It will crank all I want it to but won't fire. Sometimes if I leave the key in the "on" position, eventually the fuel guage will flicker, the fuel pump will whine, and the buzz will happen.

I checked all fuzes I can think of, but no idea what to do.

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It sounds like the ignition switch is bad, it is not sending voltage to what it should when it is in the run position. This will not effect how it cranks.

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

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1 Answer

Buzzing and Ignition Issues


Sounds like a weak battery, or bad connections at the battery/etc. Could also be a security system issue. Without hearing the noise it is difficult to help you pinpoint it. Maybe compile some more info with specifics like when? how often? cold or hot engine? cold or hot outside? Does the engine crank slow/start normal when it does start? Do you have any non-Honda alarms/gps/tracking systems installed? If so, that's where to start. 99.9% of the time these types of probs show up with non-factory security systems installed, it's caused by the aftermarket product, or sloppy installation by vendor.

Mar 05, 2014 | 1997 Honda CR-V

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I have a 1998 VW jetta gl sadan and this has happened to me once already the car will work fine and then when I go to turn it on it will crank over but won't start the lights work and windows can...


sorry about your snowstorm.. been watching it on weather channel..nasty..sounds like failure of the autoshutoff relay..this works ignition and the fuel pump..try this.. turn the key to the run position for a few seconds and listen for a buzzing in the trunk area if you dont hear it(and its not that loud) that means no power to the fuel pump..this will cause a no start condition..a parts store will carry the relay and its not to hard to change..they will tell you where its located and how to replace it..repost your findings with me specifically..I will help as much as I can..good luck and keep warm..

Feb 09, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1999 Nissan pathfinder cranks but won't start.


Blocked fuel filter? check you have fuel getting to the motor. Can you hear the fuel pump buzz when the key is turned on?

Jul 05, 2012 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I drove my car worked find and when i went to start again it would start but turn over?


So the engine does crank over? If so, turn key to on and listen for the fuel pump to buzz on for a couple of seconds. If the pump is working, you should hear it come on when key is ON. You may need to stand by the tank when someone turns key to on. It will only come on for a couple of seconds to prime the fuel system, then shut off if the car is not cranked. If you don't hear that familiar buzz from the rear, then suspect a failed pump, but the wiring to it will need to be checked before condemning the pump.
If you do hear the pump coming on, then the fuel system is at least getting gas to the engine, suspect an ignition problem. Begin ignition diagnosis by checking for spark at a plug wire.
Good luck.

Jun 02, 2012 | Mercury Topaz Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1999 gmc sierra 2500 6 liter ran out of gas now won't start


If you are at or near the 100,000 mile mark then your fuel pump may have failed. If you remove the fuel filler cap and listen carefully at the filler neck while someone turns the ignition key to "run" [don't actually crank the engine] you should be able to hear the fuel pump buzz for about a second and a half as the key is turned On. If you don't hear the pump buzz then odds are your pump is dead. Your pump may have actually failed making it appear as though you ran out of fuel. Not to uncommon. Hope this helps and good luck!

Nov 01, 2011 | 1999 GMC Sierra

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I have a 96 pontiac grand am that doesnt start all the time


Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All

Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be some­thing as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.

Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a prob­lem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter sole­noid.

Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this prob­lem.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.

Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start

Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.

Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.

Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.

Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.


Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off

Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you

Jul 21, 2011 | 1996 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

My 2000 licolin battery died the key won't open the door lock how do get in to the engin to put jumpers on the battery to give it enough power to work the locks ps i don't understand why the key...


The key has to open the drivers door

Raise the car up,support it,& put your battery
charger on the starter battery cable terminal
& ground the black clip

Try charging the battery for 4 hours or so

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1 Answer

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Turn the key and listen for a hum (keep doors closed but a window down and radio off). Don't turn the key all the way to try to crank it, just the turn to get all the lights in the dash on. If you hear a slight hum or buzz that last a second or two that is your fuel pump. If you don't hear it, check your fuse for the fuel pump, if that is not blown, your fuel pump may have gone out.

May 04, 2011 | Mercedes-Benz C230 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Unable to open drivers door with the key and when door is opened, all doors make a loud buzzing sound.


The description isn't clear but I will take a stab at it. It sounds like there are two things going on. First the key won't work, this could be caused by the key being worn out, or the door key cylinder or door latch is broken. Second, When the door is opened and you then start to hear that buzzing sound. You are hearing the (door open) chime.

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