My car heats up every now and then. when it does i let it cool down thenturn it back on to put water. this time i noticed belt to the pullies was not moving then as i put the water in the radiator it started moving slowly then at regular speed. what is going on
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Re: belt is not running when car is turned on
There could be one or two problems if you look at the belt and it's not moving, look at the center of the crank shaft pulley if you see that the center is rotating and the outer part of the pulley where the belt runs is still then you need to replace the crank shaft pulley (the crank shaft pulley is the one in the bottom in the middle of the engine) if this information has been helpful please let us know good luck
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Looks like you may have overheated it and seized the motor or the computer shut the motor down without the belt turning the waterpump..have someone take passenger side inner fender well out and access bottom crankshaft pulley...See if it will turn by hand with a socket and breakerbar. If it turns the engine is ok...next put the waterpump belt back on..refill coolant..reset computer by taking ground off battery under back seat for 5 min and retry also make sure battery is at 13.5 volts min.let us know if your successful.
The first thing I would do is drain all of the fluid from the cooling system (check to see if there is an engine block drain and open that too) and replace it with water. Turn the temperature setting to full hot and run the car. Leave the radiator cap off when you do this since the fluid level will go down as the car warms up. Add more water as necessary. Now does the temperature gauge on the dash reach the middle setting? Any heat coming from inside the car? Listen to the engine do you hear any noise from the belt side? Possibly a bad water pump? Turn the car off and let it cool down for about thirty minutes. Drain the water out of the radiator (you can remove the lower radiator hose if necessary) and engine block. Notice any sludge coming out in the water? Close off all the drain cocks. Now start the car and add water to the radiator and start the process all over again. The car must be running as you add the cold water to a slightly hot engine to keep the engine block from cracking. Let the car run, watch the temperature gauge, keeping filling the radiator, check for heat inside. Any better? Wait for the temperature gauge to hit the middle point between hot and cold (normal running position). Any heat on the inside? Turn the car off and let it cool again for about thirty minutes. If there is no change then let it cool off for about an hour (engine cool to the touch) and drain the system again. Pull off the hoses that go from the engine block to the firewall (heater hoses). Turn on your garden hose and place it over one of those heater hose openings. Do not turn the water on full blast you may have a leak in the car and I don\'t want you to have a flood. How much water comes out from the other hose (be careful it could be hot)? I have even blown air through one of these hoses to get any water out of the heater core. It sounds to me like you may have some sort of blockage in your cooling system. When you pull off the heater hoses take out the thermostat again and put the garden hose in the engine block to get water flowing through the entire system (all drains and hoses are off to allow the most flow). When was the water pump changed on the car? One other thing that is critical is the possibility of a regulator valve inside the car connected to the temperature setting on the dash. Some cars today do not have any way to regulate the water going through the heater core (flows freely) but if your car has one of these valves it could be bad (frozen shut). Once everything is working correctly remember to fill the cooling system with 50% distilled water / 50% anti-freeze solution.
There is a air pocket in the heater core, you just didn't burp it right.
Open the hood of your car. Secure the hood with the
safety handle. If you have a newer car, you should have a bleeder valve
on the front of your radiator. Check in your owner's manual for the
location of this valve. If you do start your car, open the valve with
wrench and let your car heat up. The excess air will bleed out of your
cooling system. Keep your car on long enough to give the (trapped air)
time to bleed out of your system.
Let your car cool down. Once the car is cool, take
off the radiator cap. Did the level of the radiator fluid go down? If it
did, it means you bled the air out of your cooling system. Replace the
radiator fluid, turn on the car, and let it run. Replace radiator fluid
Step 3 (above) is the way you will remove air from your cooling system if you do not have a bleeder valve on your radiator.
You will leave the cap off the radiator. You will run your car until it
heats up. As the air dissipates, the radiator fluid level will go down.
You will fill up your radiator fluid to the correct level. Be careful
because the heated radiator fluid will be hot. Always wear leather
gloves and safety goggles when working on your radiator.
Once the air dissipates and you fill the fluid, shut off the car. Let
the car cool down. Once the car is cool, put the radiator cap back on
the radiator. You may have to put more radiator fluid in the radiator.
The level may fall as the car cools down. Now it is safe to drive your
car. You have removed the trapped air from your cooling system.
Always wear gloves and safety goggles when working on your radiator.
Radiator fluid gets very hot when heated.
Check radiator fluid periodically.
Problem is not your radiator--unfortunate for you. It's more likely the water pump. The water pump pumps the water around through your radiator to be cooled and then through the engine block to cool your motor. Before you go tearing the water pump out though, you may want to check to see if your fan belt is in good condition and working properly because the water pump works off of the fan belt turning the pulley to pump the water around. If the fan belt is off that pulley, it may need to be put back on or re-routed correctly to start pumping the water.
Then if that is not your problem, the water pump will probably need to be replaced. I believe it can be accessed from underneath the engine compartment, but first you will have to take the tension off the fan belt and remove the belt, then loosen the bolts around the front of the water pump. Put a catch pan under the car though because all your water/antifreeze will come gushing out. That water pump should be available at your local AutoZone or another auto parts store for around $100.
You probably just need to "burp" your cooling system. Run the car (from cold) with the radiator cap open and the heater on full blast. As the engine heats up and the water level goes down, fill it up until it stays full and starts to overflow.
Its possible the timing belt is not correctly aligned. The car will still run but will have adverse problems, loss of power, poor economy, overheating. If the head gasket is wrong or improperly installed (upside down) certain cooling passages could be blocked causing the over heat. Have a different shop verify ignition timing, compression, timing belt alignment, thermostat installation direction, cooling system integrity i. e. pressure test the radiator cap and system, coolant flow through radiator, and cooling fan operation. good luck
The most likely senario is that the water pump went bad which caused the overheating in the first place. Then after the engine shut down, the water pump seized up. When the engine was restarted, the timing belt started to smoke because the water pump, which runs off the timing belt, was not turning. Since the engine overheated to the point of shutting down, blown head gaskets are a possibility. Put a new timing belt and water pump on it and start it up. If it runs OK, you're good to go.