Question about 1999 Buick Century

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Steering problem, the font ball joints and bushings,and tie rod extension rod, now the car has a problem steering to the left,

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The wheels need aligning.
FixedYa!

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

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1 Answer

How many lubrication fittings are there on a 1999 Buick LaSabre?


if this has a conventional front end(not front wheel drive) then there will be one on each outer tie rod end one on each inner tie rod end, both upper and lower ball joints on each side, idler arm and pitman arm. if its front wheel drive it will have a rack and pinion steering. there for there will be one on each outer tie rod end and one on each lower ball joint, if they have grease fittings. so conventional steering has 10 fittings total and rack and pinion has 4 total.

Jul 28, 2015 | Buick Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Steering wheel shake at 130km


130 km !! Well, in order of liklihood

- out of balance tyre/rim combination
- out of round tyres
- loose front hub adjustment
- worn tie rod end joints
- worn suspension bushes
- worn front strut and mount rubbers
- worn inner tie rod ball joints
- worn steering box mounts
- worn or loose steering shaft spline or u-joint

Jul 07, 2015 | 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS CVT Sedan

1 Answer

Play in steering


Check the tie rod ends, ball joints and suspension bushes for wear and damage.

Mar 01, 2014 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

There is alot of play in stearing wheel before the tires will turn


Hi Ems, Seems you're riding a death trap. Have a workshop check the tie rod ends (all four), the steering rod and link assembly (drag linkages), steering idler and steering box. While they're checking also ask them to inspect the ball joints and all suspension bushes. If the vehicle is fitted with a solid beam front axle and semi elliptical spring suspension (Leaf springs) get the kingpins inspected for wear. Sounds to me as if the work may be extensive. Regards John

Oct 21, 2012 | 1991 Ford F250

1 Answer

2000 gmc z71 passenger side cv joint is making noise when i turn......i talk to napa and can get rebuilt for 60$.....but to take it apart....do i need ball joint separator.....what tools..????


Never use a tool myself other than a big hammer. Those forks don't work for me, though we have them. Hit the joint on the side and it will pop out. If not, you can always put the nut back on even with the ball stud and hit it from the bottom. The book also calls for a special tool to get the axle out of the hub. Have never used this either. If it doesn't slide out, I just hit it--I have a new one anyway (take it loose from the tranny before hitting it). Tools you will need are the big socket for the axle nut (around 22mm or so) and regular metric socket set, preferably 1/2 in drive. Also take the speed sensor and brake lines off the support bracket to free up the hub a little more. Note that you may need to also separate the tie rod end if you cannot otherwise swing the hub out far enough to get the shaft out. The book says to take off the stabilizer and shock and also separate the upper ball joint. I don't know if that's necessary or not, as I have not done one on this particular truck. You are doing the whole shaft, right? We don't do individual CVs anymore, as the labor is ridiculous compared to the cost difference to a whole half shaft. Take the axle nut off, unbolt the shaft from the tranny, and swing the hub out. Pull the axle out of the hub first, then the tranny. Reverse procedure to install. I will paste the book solution from autozone.com below. Lemme know if you have more questions.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Front wheel and tire assembly Skid plate, as required. If equipped Drive axle hub nut and washer Brake line and wheel speed sensor support bracket from the upper control arm to allow extra travel of the control arm. Left outer tie rod attaching nut and cotter pin. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
  3. Position the tie rod aside and push steering linkage to the opposite side of the vehicle.

    Lower shock attaching nut and bolt; position the shock aside Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
  4. Taking pressure off the upper control arm by placing a support below the lower control arm between the spring seat and the ball joint.
    NOTE Cover the shock mounting bracket and lower ball joint stud with a towel to prevent the axle boot from tearing during removal and installation.


    Upper ball joint cotter pin and loosen (do not remove) the upper ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Remove the attaching nut.
  5. Separate the axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or equivalent.

    Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
To install:
  1. Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel bearing grease.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    Axle shaft in the hub Inboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm). Upper ball joint to steering knuckle. Torque the stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball joint as required. Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm Lower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and bolt Left tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nut Brake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not twisted or kinked Skid plate, as required Axle hub washer and nut. Insert a drift through the rotor vanes to keep the axle from turning. Toque the hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) Wheel and tire assembly

Oct 26, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

2 Answers

The passenger front tire of my Chrysler 300m wobbles every time I hit a hard bump. Tie Rod maybe? I was told that the Tie Rod on that side was wore when I had new tires put on so that was my guess.


could be tie rod or ball joint or bushing. I would put it on a rack and pull at every joint. You can even check at home by jacking up the wheel and pulling it in each direction. There should not be any play. In/out play at side of wheel is due to tie rods or bushings. In/out play at bottom is due to ball joint.

Oct 02, 2010 | 2004 Chevrolet Venture Passanger

1 Answer

Need to know the size of the socket needed to remove the front hubs on a dodge ram 3500 1 ton 4 x 4 with cummins engine?


Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with wrench Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut
Remove the tie rod end from steering knuckle arm, using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle .
Remove the upper ball joint stud from the steering knuckle using Puller, Special Tool, C3894-A Ball Joint Stud .----------------------- The procedure is :-- Do NOT pound on the outside of the hub. First you will need a 5 inch long half inch drive socket extension. Start the 4 hub bolts about half way, then witha helper hold the extension between one of the 4 bolts and the axle housing then have the helper turn the steering wheel to push on the bolt and hub. If it is really rusted in you might have to start the truck to get more pressure on it while turning. Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jul 11, 2010 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Am

2 Answers

I feel the steering pulling to the left, when I correct it, the truck will dart to the right.Ford 350/4x4 diesel,06 Scary!


That sounds like a loose steering or suspension component. Check all the joints, ball joints, tie rod, track bar etc. Check the leaf spring eye bushings and radius rod bushings. Make sure the leaf spring locating pin is in position and check for signs of the axles moving on the leaf springs.

May 17, 2010 | Ford F-350 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace lower left front ball joint ?


Removal & Installation NOTE This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.

  1. On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Tire and wheel
    • Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
    • Outer tie rod retaining nut
    • Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
    • Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
    • Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
    • Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
    • Lower ball joint retaining nut
    • Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
    • Steering knuckle from the vehicle
    • Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
  4. Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
  2. Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
    • Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
  3. Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
    • Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
    • Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
    • Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
    • Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
    • Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
    • Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
    • Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
    • Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
    • Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
    • Tire and wheel
  4. Lower the vehicle
    • Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
    • Wheel center cap, if removed
  5. Check the front wheel alignment.

Nov 30, 2009 | 2002 Oldsmobile Bravada

3 Answers

My 2003 ford tauras shakes so bad on highway


I would have that front end checked as soon as possible. It could be anything, ball joints, tie rod ends, cv joints, could be the rack and pinion steering. If any one of these things break, you will loose your steering.

Mar 10, 2009 | 2003 Ford Taurus

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