If the car runs but won't move then you have a couple possibilities. Transmission or a CV joint isseue.
Here is the test.
If you put the vehicle in drive and the speedometer works as if you are actually driving the the CV joint is the problem.
The next test is the push test. If you can push the car while in gear the the issue is the transmission because it should stay put.
Check the transmission fluid and if it is at the level it should be the go off of the test suggestions I listed. If it is the transmission you need to take it to a transmission shop. If it is a CV joint you may be able to address this at home with proper knowledge and tools. One you figure out what it it then stop trying to drive it until the repair is complete.
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This transmission shifted smooth and strong through all gears until today when it stopped all of ... Any idea on where we should start tackling this issue? .... Also, make sure that the pressure tester is not leaking or you will run the tranny dry(use ...
it sounds like the temp sensor maybe bad. I actually just replaced one on a 2001 chevy doing the same thing. reading that it was running hot while stopped but fine while driving.
The cooling system has an air pocket in it. The best solution is to have someone with a vacuum coolant system,and drain and replace the coolant. The only other way,is to jack up the front of the vehicle,and take off the radiator cap,and run it with the heater on full blast. Wait till the thermostat opens,(when coolant level drops)...then top it off while its still running.If you buy ,or have a friend who has a tool called an "Air Lift",..it will make this MUCH easier,and cleaner to fix.
Start is usually a momentary circuit. It closes a secondary circuit commonly addressed as the run circuit. Secondary. It sounds like the secondary (run) circuit is stuck closed and the thermostat cannot cancel it out when the temp is reached. The primary circuit is generally low voltage, 15vDC controlled by the t-stat and the secondary high voltage (110v A.C., is engaged on signal from the t-stat. You replaced the stat so that is not an issue. The low voltage controls a rela, Large and small wires are connected to this relay. These relays have or are contacts and they do fail. Either they stick or not work at all. Take caution with this relay because it will also make your hair stand on end if attention isn't given to the 110v side. Food Luck and be safe. -Ned
BY THE WAY, a TOWN CAR WITH AN aTWOOD 10 GALLON WATER HEATER?hMMM.
sometimes when an engine gets hot enough it will stop running due to the metal expansion when it is hot.if it cools off it will probably start but don`t run it very long especially without coolant.the thermostat may have seized in the closed position this sometimes happens as when the car is running the temperature flucuates the stat will close and open all the time(won`t close completely).another problem could be a bad head gasket that allowed coolant into the combustion chamber enough that the motor went into what is called hydraulic lock,coolant has filled the combustion chamber enough that the piston won`t move through out its normal travel.i would try changing the thermostat first refill cooling system and let run until the cooling fans have cycled on and off.if it doesn`t overheat and it cranks over when you try to start it then the stat is more than likely the problem.
Waterpump? The blades can erode away from age and old antifreeze. Or not enough airflow thru the radiator. Try blowing through the fins with an airhose to see if it is dirty or plugged.
Is it possible that the sound is happening every time you hit 14 mph after a fresh start? The TC does a ABS check 14 mph that runs the pump for a second.
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