The clutch system in your vehicle most likely works very similar to your brake system. In most cases, it may even use brake fluid as its working fluid. If you drive a classic car or truck you may have a mechanical clutch meaning it operates by a system of levers, pivot points and connecting rods to translate the movement of the clutch pedal into movement of your clutch pressure plate releasing the clutch. New cars use hydraulic clutch systems because they are much simpler to install, take up less space and do not require adjustment as your clutch wears down.
If you have replaced the clutch slave or master cylinder, the lines, or simply changed the fluid, you need to do an adequate job removing the air from the system before your clutch will work properly. This procedure is called "bleeding" your clutch system by most mechanics and is important because air in a hydraulic system will cause it to malfunction. As you press the clutch pedal, the master cylinder forces hydraulic fluid, in this case brake fluid, down through the line into the slave cylinder. The pressure of this fluid will cause the slave cylinder to activate, pushing your clutch fork and disengaging your clutch. If there is air in the system, that air bubble can compress. This compressing air bubble will absorb much of the fluid being sent from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder keeping the slave cylinder from actuating as far as it should, or even at all. If the slave cylinder does not travel as far as it should, your clutch will not fully disengage making it difficult to shift your transmission, especially into 1st gear from a stop.
To remove the air from your clutch system you need to push or pull the air down through the fluid line to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. To keep things clean you should attach a tube to the nipple on the bleeder valve. If you use a clear tube it can be easy to see when all the air has exited the system. The easiest way to bleed the clutch is to use a vacuum pump to pull the fluid and air out of the system while keeping the clutch fluid reservoir topped off. Continue pumping fluid from the bleeder valve until you no longer see air bubbles in the fluid. If you do not have a vacuum pump, you can do this manually with a friend.
With the bleeder valve closed, have your helper depress the clutch pedal as far as they can. Open the bleeder valve and allow the fluid to run out until it slows down, while your friend maintains pressure on the clutch pedal. When the fluid flow slows, while your Helper still has pressure on the clutch pedal, close the bleeder valve. Let the clutch pedal back up and repeat the process. Continue this process until no more air bubbles are seen exiting the bleeder valve. Your helper should feel the pedal (stiffen up) as you complete this process as air is easier to compress than the clutch plate release springs.
When you have completed this procedure make sure the bleeder valve is tightly closed, and go for a test drive!
SOURCE: clutch pedal stays down
Still have air in system.. Try this: Pull pedal up,fill reservoir to the top, open bleed nipple on slave cyl all the way,leave for a while to "gravity feed" keeping the reservoir full,& an eye on the nipple, until all bubbles are expelled and clean brakefluid drips out(could take a few minutes). Close the nipple, and bleed system as usual....
SOURCE: Bleeding clutch slave cylinder
i think youre doing the right thing. they are very stubborn to bleed because the hyd. line goes up high across back of engine before droppiing back down to slave cyl., trapping air. could try to gravity bleed by opening bleeder at slave, cap off of master cyl, full with fluid then it may start to come out after a bit. then try your process again. or can try to bleed at connections further up the line, working your way back to bleeder. hope this helps. be patient.
SOURCE: Clutch Problem
check your clutch pedal after several years the clutch pedal actually bends a bit causing your clutch throw to go just under tolerance, I disconnected the clutch master rod from the pedal, found a wrench the same size as the shaft on the clutch pedal where it connects to the master, and braced the wrench against the dash support beam and pulled the pedal toward the driver's seat, worked fine after. or you can buy a clutch master rod replacement online that is actually adjustable and fix it that way.
SOURCE: no pressure clutch pedal goes straight to the floor 1988 holden r
If hydraulic actuated mechanism, loss of fluid, defective master cylinder or slave cylinder at the clutch. Missing pin or other part between slave cylinder and clutch arm. Loose or broken slave cylinder mounting. Missing pin or broken part between pedal and master cylinder. If mechanical linkage, look for broken components or missing pins at moving joints. If you tried to shift into gear with engine running, you may have damaged the transmission gears.
SOURCE: Abnormal clutch pedal operation
You've replaced the master, the slave, now I would check to see if the throwout fork will move by hand. If you can move the fork by hand I would say that your pressure plate and or throwout bearing are worn out. First try to just gravity bleed the system. If that doesnt work, it may be time for a clutch, pressure plate, and bearing. The pressure plate spring pushes the pedal back up and depending on how many miles and driving habit those little arms on it break off and just wear out. I hope this helps you.
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