We have checked the fuel pump, filters regulators he has ran diagnostics. ran fuel down and put in fresh fuel still no go.the vehicle only has 117,000 miles on it. It is well maintained new spark plug wires timing belt was replaced about 40, 000 miles ago
Does it only stall when coming to a stop ?
Testimonial: "no it stalls while driving"
Check the ignition coil.
Testimonial: "no stalls while driving"
Pump pressure and "volume" were both tested ? How about the ignition module ? Crank sensor heat failing .
Testimonial: "all tested negative...Mechanic has been doing my work on my vehicle for years...he is calling the dealer to see if they have had any issues like mine."
My mechanic has a mechanic from the dealer going in monday to check it, my mechanic figures maybe him and his staff are possibly missing something.
So the mechanic from hyundai checked my car today. Ran all diagnostics and still no answers. Every test is good. No codes, no check engine. All pressures are good. car is still stalling sometimes and other times running good. My mechanic is at a loss...
Intermittent issues are the hardest to track down . Heat and vibration are the culprits in many cases . Does it do it more when hot or on bumpy roads ? ECMs/PCMs can have circuit boards with cracks or even bad solder connections . Heat and vibration both cause havoc on the modules and sensors as well .
does not make a difference as far as heat or bumpy roads. would the either of these issues cause any codes during diagnostics.
If they could connect a scan tool to it in record mode while it acts up they could get some clues from that .
Codes will not necessarily set . Certain parameters are required to set a code . Many cars I have diagnosed have no codes at all even though they have serious issues going on.
So anything in peticular jump out since it really does sound like the mechanics have done every scan and test on it.
would a gas cap cause it even though it is not throwing any codes...
So the mechanic is about 96% sure the computer is shot. He ordered one yesterday should have it tomorrow. He hopes to have it done late tomorrow afternoon...hoping this solves the problem
Hopefully . Post back
the mechanic put the computer in and nothing. won't even turn over. Put the old one in and still won't start..scary it was at least starting up when I left it.
Used or new computer .
Does it have antitheft?
no anti-theft used computer. He got it from a reliable company that he uses all the time. Just really strange that even when he put my computer back in it still wont start.
Double check that neutral safety switch.
So finally got my car back. Mechanic traced the eletrical harness, cleaned all the connections and reinstalled the computer and BINGO car is running good...Had an issue at first with check engine light after picking up vehicle, code came up as Cat converter code, I knew my cat was new so the mechanic reset code and all is fine.
Thank you again Robert Wood for all your help
You are welcome and I am glad they got it fixed .
I have had my car back 8 days now. Ran great up until today. started stalling again. first time started right back up. stalled again and would not start again. either not getting a spark or not getting fuel. I have gas in the vehicle. After letting sit for an hour started back up and was able to get it back home. So here we go again back to mechanic monday morning.. so confusing....thought the issue was fixed but back to square 1.
Sorry Dot . I have worked on cars for nearly forty years . The last ten years have gotten more complicated and aggravating at the same time . I hope and pray they get it diagnosed this time as I know money does not come easy . Post back
thanks... will let you know
So I picked up my car friday from the mechanic. He replaced the oil pressure sensor which he did not believe to be causing the problem even thou he said it was broken. He also replaced a wire that connects to the ignition control module. Seems to be running good now. we will wait and see
Maybe that wire from the ICM making intermittent contact with ground causing the ignition module to cut out .
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SOURCE: 2002 Hyundai Elantra Check Engine
the error was resolved in the link below, please check the last post of Sith.
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t28310-1997-elantra-code-p0455-help.htm
hope this will help you resolve th issue you have too.
SOURCE: oil change procedure on a 2005 Hyundai elantra
it is very easy to change the oil put the car on ramps secure the back end look for the drain plug underneath the engine make sure you have the right size wrench and when you remove the plug also check the gasket on the plug to make sure it is not cracked you will also need an oil filter wrench and my other suggestion to you is to go to autozone to see if they have a Haynes repair manual for your car and if they don't see if they can order you one in the mean time they can also print you off a diagram of how to change the oil in you car safely
SOURCE: hyundai elantra stalls loss of power while
I just had this problem on a 2001 elantra. I took it in for repair: the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure/ intake air temp) sensor was shot. $150 later it works just fine.
SOURCE: 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS. Check engine light, code PO133
Did you use a aftermarket O2 sensor or a genuine Hyundai one? If it's an aftermarket one it may be bad or not as good as the OEM one. See here for more details and other potential causes: P0133
SOURCE: need fil for error code P2626 Hyundai Elantra GLS
P2626 O2 Sensor Pumping Current Trim Circuit/Open (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
I'll sure this has to do with a faulty O2 sensor. This sensor is usually
located around the header of your car, or down more on your exhaust.
Try disconnecting your battery for 30 mins, hook it back up, and start
your car again. This will erase the error. See if it comes in again.
Hope this help (remember rated this post).
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Stalling from take off or going down the road at speed ?
driving and she will stall. never know when it is going to stall.
When it stalls does it act or run strange ?
just sort of cuts out. no warning
When it does stall will it crank right back up? If not can you get spark at the plugs ?
can put it in neutral and starts right back up...
Ok . Have they tested the park/neutral safety switch ? Maybe a worn point in the park contact if it will fire back up in neutral .
Also the ignition switch itself may be worn causing the stalling as GM has had problems as such . While driving down the road in a safe low or no traffic area, bump the steering wheel with your hand and see if it stalls . Wiggle up and down on the ignition switch and see if it dies . You can probably do both sitting still .
all of these have also been tested.
If it will start in neutral but not in park the neutral safety switch is bad .
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