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look for a blown fuse or a bad relay or bad sensor. possibly the mechanism is in a mechanical bind .. i would go to youtube and search the issue to see if it's a common problem and if so there will be videos on fixing it ..
How wet is the foot well? This is likely to be one of two things. Door seal rubber or the Heater matrix.
Try this bit of detective work. Does it only get wet when it rains heavily? Is it just the front that is wet? Feel the carpet in the foot well. How high up the foot well carpet does the wetness go? Does the wetness smell of anything? Do you have a sun roof fitted? Sun roofs have drain holes that can clog up so the rain pools up in the grooves and runners then over spills inside the vehicle.
If it only gets wet after rain it could be a worn out door seal rubber or the sun roof letting water in. Door seals usually cause shallow pools of water so the wetness won't rise very high up the carpet. The sun roof sometimes causes the seats to get wet as well.
If it is wet all the time, the wetness rises high up into the foot well and it has a 'sweet' smell, it could be the small radiator unit,(the Heater Matrix), behind the dashboard that supplies heat to the heater blowers leaking. Depending on where exactly it is fitted you'll sometimes get wetness in both front foot wells. The smell is the coolant from the engine.
Hope this helps.
Did you take it to a qualified repair shop? Do you know what DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's are ?
DTC B1010 08: System Sensors Data Mismatch signal invalid
DTC B1296 01: Movable Roof Header Unlatched Sensor Circuit short to battery
DTC B1296 06: Movable Roof Header Unlatched Sensor Circuit short to ground or open
DTC B1296 58: Movable Roof Header Unlatched Sensor Circuit incorrect reaction after event
DTC B1296 59: Movable Roof Header Unlatched Sensor Circuit circuit/component protection time out
DTC B1307 58: Movable Roof Latch Signal Circuit incorrect reaction after event
DTC B1307 59: Movable Roof Latch Signal Circuit circuit/component protection time out
DTC B1395
S3 and S4 are part of the Rear Compartment Lid Release switch. The folding top control (FTC) module uses S3 and S4 to determine whether the claws at the rear of the deck lid are latched into the deck lid or unlatched. S3 closes and supplies a 12-volt reference to the signal circuit when the claws are unlatched. S4 closes and supplies a 12-volt reference to the signal circuit when the claws are latched.
DTC B3669 01: Deck Lip Position Sensor Circuit short to battery
DTC B3669 06: Deck Lip Position Sensor Circuit short to ground or open
DTC B3669 58: Deck Lip Position Sensor Circuit incorrect reaction after event
DTC B3669 59: Deck Lip Position Sensor Circuit circuit/component protection time out
DTC B366A 58: Deck Lid Latched Left Front Sensor Circuit incorrect reaction after event
DTC B366A 59: Deck Lid Latched Left Front Sensor Circuit circuit/component time out
Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop .
Turn the key forward to the spot just before cranking, emergency break on, windows down (slightly or all the way, no difference), foot on break, roof unlatched and pushed back slightly. Once you push the roof up slightly, it should trigger a microswitch that allows the motor to turn on. If you listen closely, you can hear it. Can you hear the motor turning? If not, check the fuse and any microswitches. If they check good it could be the "motor." I say "motor" like that because its actually a pump to a hydraulic system. It sits in the trunk on the left wheel well. Its very easy to replace. If you do hear the motor, go to the trunk and look at the system on the left wheel well. There is a hydraulic reservoir under the pump. If you cant see any fluid in there, that is your problem. To fill it, turn the T-handle on the pump counterclockwise. This will depressurize the system and also allow you to manually operate the roof. Next to the T-handle is a cap that requires an allen wrench to remove. Remove it and fill to the little dot inside a circle with hydraulic fluid. This can be a little trick to reach; I used a turkey baster!! After filling to appropriate level, put cap back on and then turn T-handle clockwise and secure it. Now operate the roof a few times with the button to build up some pressure. Now your roof should be operating properly!!
In the trunk of car the lift up the rear deck panel where the spare wheel is stored.Look in the right hand corner and you will see a small motor.You will also see a little L shaped tool next to it.Attach that tool to the motor and wind it to close or open your roof.The roof will move,but very slowly.Saab was very thoughtful to have this feature.
This has happened to my wife's 2004 A4 Convertible 2x's. I had to read the owner's manual several times to get the job done correctly (pages in the high 70's to low 80's) ...the following is offered from memory:
The handle/tool needed to accomplish the task 'manually' is located in the fuse box on the LEFT SIDE of the dashboard. A small flat blade screwdriver will enable you to pry open the fuse cover & gain access to the handle/tool. Slight twist the tool and it comes out easily. Tool is a "T" shaped handle.
Once you have the handle/tool IN HAND, simply turn the RED part (only) on the handle until it 'locks' in an open position. Leaves a small space on the handle. Can't recall if you go clockwise or counterclockwise, but it will be evident.
Now...move both front seats forward and tilt them to gain access to rear seat. Remove the ski boot cover in middle of the rear seat and put aside. Then, 'click' the interior boot cover panel down to gain access to a 'hole' (about size of a 50 cent piece) in the top of the boot space. This hole allows you to insert (upward) the above mentioned tool into a lock/unlock mechanism in the rear deck just forward of the trunk. The tool needs to be jiggled to go 'all the way' in...you will sense that. Once in, TURN the RED part of the handle to "LOCK" the handle into the mechanism. The tool will hang down by itself.
My approach is to 'store' the roof in the open convertible position first. The front portion of the roof should be partially forward as that appears to 'release' a lever within the roof's up/down mechanism to allow you to raise the rear window portion. Thus, lift (with that friend) the rear window portion up and forward (takes some effort). The roof now has a kind of 'clamshell' appearance front & rear. The front may even flop forward but tht's OK. This step exposes the rear deck.
Twist the tool to unlock the rear deck. It should click & release and a small space appears enabling you to use hands (that friend again) under it (the deck). Lift the deck up & back until the hydraulics kick in and keep the deck vertically open.
Now you are ready to tackle the roof & rear window for storage under the rear deck cover. Get a friend, if possible to help with the lifting...remember, this is a "Manual" job! Once here, gently push back & lower the rear window portion of the roof into the open storage area simultaneously followed by the remainder of the roof itself. Watch fingers for possible pinching in the levers, etc., during this part of operation
Hopefully you now have the roof & rear window stored in the area in front of trunk and be able to lower the rear deck to almost closed position.
If so, go back to the tool and twist it to 'lock' the deck in place with roof stored.
Remove tool from the ski storage area by reversing procedure above.
Now comes the "Moment of Truth"!
With the ignition turned on and car running, use the roof switch to bring the stored roof up and all the way to the closed position. Don't forget you must keep your finger on that switch until the operation completely finishes.
Then, reverse the process to open & store the roof for a good blow dry (drive)!
Take a thin utility cord. Tie it to one end of the front bar and wrap it
repeatedly around the bar to the other end of the
front bar (spaced about an inch per loop, working around anything
attached to the rack) where you tie it tight. Can disrupt the airflow to
break the noise - got rid of all of the noise from my rack. I used a 10 foot cord cost $1.60. Doesn't look as cool as a fairing,
but much cheaper and no one will steal it from your car. And you
don't have to move the bars so that you can't use them.
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