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On a 1990 mazda b2200 there are 3 tubes crossing in engine front and rear of the fan. are these fuel injection tubing ?

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  • Mazda Master
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SOURCE: no pulsating power on the

you need to see if your getting fuel up to the injectors maybe the fuel pumps bad or a relay.

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SOURCE: Acura 3.2 TL 1999 - Leaky fuel line repair

it can be a viable fix. but the two ends of the fuel have to be flaired useing a flairing tool and hve strong flex tubing with good claps due to the pressure. i can work, ive done it before on a ford escort, but if you can afford it i would reccomend replacing the whole line

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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SOURCE: 1999 Durango brake line leak

I have just done this job with aftermarket brake lines in three pieces, two 40" and one 30" joined by unions. I did not take the tank down, it is possible to reach the clips holding the brake line from the top reaching in with your fingers from the outside reaching over the frame. Make sure to have good light and a flashlight at hand. Above each clip holding the electric cable run you see next to the tank there is also a slot (in the same clip) for holding the brake line. I used the two long pieces in the rear and slid one in place, then joined it with the second one the short piece I used to do the final bend up to the junction block. The uninon for that one to the other two conveniently ended up right behind the front most clip holding the brake line and the fuel line to the chassis. I am not sure if I saved time or effort doing it this way I just shyed away from bringing down the tank as all I jacked up the car with was drive on ramps and there was not much space under it. Also the brake line did not conveniently burst when I had an almost empty tank to handle but the other way around...

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

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Replace fuel inj 2009 lincoln ls 3.9 eng


Check this procedure about V8 3.9L Fuel Injectors - Removal & Installation
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, please familiarize yourself with safety procedures.
  2. Relieve fuel system pressure.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Negative battery cable Engine appearance covers Fuel lines Fuel pressure regulator Fuel cross over elbow Fuel injector connectors Fuel injector clamping plates Fuel injectors
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    Fuel injectors. Use new O-ring seals. Fuel injector clamping plates Fuel injector connectors Fuel cross over elbow Fuel pressure regulator Fuel lines Engine appearance covers Negative battery cable
  2. Start the engine and check for leaks.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, please familiarize yourself with safety procedures.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    CAUTION The engine appearance cover is equipped with a noise suppressor. If the noise suppressor becomes separated from the engine appearance cover it must be positioned on the intake manifold prior to installing the engine appearance cover.
  3. Remove the engine appearance cover and the noise suppressor, if detached.
  4. Remove the air cleaner outlet pipe.
  5. Release the fuel system pressure.
  6. Remove the four engine appearance cover mounting bracket nuts and the brackets.
  7. Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor electrical connector from the sensor.
  8. Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor vacuum connector from the sensor.
  9. Disconnect the eight fuel injector electrical connectors from the injectors.
  10. Disconnect the fuel temperature sensor electrical connector from the sensor.
  11. Disconnect the fuel supply tube retaining clip from the fuel injection supply manifold.
  12. Disconnect the fuel supply tube spring lock coupling.
  13. Remove the four bolts and the fuel injection supply manifold and fuel injectors as an assembly.
  14. Remove the fuel injectors from the fuel injection supply manifold.
    CAUTION Use O-ring seals that are made of special fuel-resistant material. Use of ordinary O-ring seals can cause the fuel system to leak. Do not reuse the O-ring seals.
  15. Remove and discard the 16 O-ring seals from the fuel injectors.

    zjlimited_467.jpg

    Fig. Exploded view of the fuel injector mounting-3.9L engine shown

To install:
  1. Lubricate the new fuel injector O-ring seals with clean engine oil before installing.
    CAUTION Use O-ring seals that are made of special fuel-resistant material. Use of ordinary O-rings can cause the fuel system to leak. Do not reuse the O-ring seals.
  2. Install sixteen new O-ring seals onto the fuel injectors. Lubricate the O-ring seals with clean engine oil prior to installation.
  3. Install the fuel injectors and clips onto the fuel rail.
  4. Install the fuel rail and injectors as an assembly. Tighten the fuel rail bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  5. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal.

Keep us updated.

Jan 14, 2011 | 2002 Lincoln LS

2 Answers

How to change an exhaust manifold leak 7.5L


Right-Hand
Removal
  1. Remove spark plug heat shield (12A406).
  1. Remove distributor to spark plug wires (12286) using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
    1. Disconnect muffler inlet pipe.
    1. If equipped with secondary air injection, disconnect the secondary air injection check valve tube (9B480).
    1. Remove attaching bolts and right exhaust manifold (9430).
    1. Inspect joint faces for signs fo exhaust leaks, cracks or any defect that would make exhaust manifold unfit for use







Left-Hand Removal






1. Remove oil level indicator tube (6754).
  1. Remove spark plug heat shield.
  1. Remove distributor to spark plug wires using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
  1. Disconnect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube (9D477). If equipped with air injection, disconnect the secondary air injection check valve tube.
  1. Disconnect muffler inlet pipe.
  1. Remove attaching bolts and exhaust manifold (9431).
  1. Inspect joint faces for signs of exhaust leaks, cracks or any defect that would make the exhaust manifold unfit for use.
Installation
  1. Clean mating surfaces of right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold and cylinder head (6049). Clean mounting flange of right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold and inlet pipe(s). Clean mounting surface for air injection tube or right exhaust manifold. Apply light film of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B to right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold.
  1. Position right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold on cylinder head. Install attaching bolts and washers, starting at fourth bolt hole from front of each right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold. Tighten bolts to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft), working from center right to both ends.
    1. Position inlet pipes to right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold. Install attaching nuts and tighten to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft).
    1. Position the secondary air injection check valve tube and the secondary air injection tube gasket (9C435) at rear of right-hand exhaust manifold. Install attaching bolts and tighten to 19-25 Nm (14-18 lb-ft).
    1. Attach the secondary air injection manifold tube (9B449) to left-hand exhaust manifold fitting (located under EGR tube). Tighten nut to 30-40 Nm (22-30 lb-ft).
    1. Attach the secondary air injection check valve tube to rear of right-hand cylinder head. Tighten bolts to 75-85 Nm (56-62 lb-ft).
      1. Connect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube to left exhaust manifold, if removed. Tighten nut to 53-72 Nm (39-53 lb-ft).
      1. Install spark plug heat shield and distributor to spark plug wires.
      1. Install oil level indicator tube to left exhaust manifold, if removed. Tighten nut to 13-24 Nm (10-18 lb-ft).
      2. Start engine (6007) and check for exhaust leaks.







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Hope this helps you...WF †

Mar 10, 2010 | 1996 Ford F250 Crew Cab

1 Answer

Remove and install diesel fuel injector


First, keep everything as clean as possible. Contamination below 30 microns, which cannot be seen by humans, can destory a diesel fuel injection system. Clean everything off anything having to do with connections on the fuel system and cover any connections left open.

Begin by removing the intake manifold. This will remove the clips holding the injection lines passing underneath and around the intake runners. After removing the manifold, cover the openings in the cylinder head (I use wadded-up paper towels).

Next, remove the clips at the brackets on the injection lines closer to the injectors.

Loosen all of the injection connections at the injectors. Do not remove the lines.

You can remove the water crossover tube if it is in your way, but drain about a 1/2 gallon of coolant before your remove the crossover.

Remove the oil fill tube from the timing cover. Turn the engine clockwise, using a 15/16" socket and ratchet (or breaker bar) on the center bolt of the crankshaft. As you turn the engine over, a bolt will show up at the opening where the oil fill tube was removed. Remover the bolt and keep turning the engine over until you have removed all three bolts. Do NOT use the starter to turn the engine over and, after removing the third bolt, do NOT turn the crankshaft any more.

On top of the timing cover, behind the rounded top, is the place where the injection pump is bolted to the cover from the back side. Clean the top of the timing cover where it meets the injection pump and look for a thin line scribed into the cover and one on the injection pump. Note the position of the two lines (they are usually aligned) for reassembly.

Remove the throttle cable assembly from the injection pump. Remove all the wires from the pump and note which connection the big pink wire goes to. The other wires will be green. Remove the return hose at the top of the injection pump.

There are three nuts holding the injection pump to the timing cover and you will need a 15mm socket and/or wrench to remove them. When you do, the injection pump and injection lines can be removed as a unit. Note the position of the driveshaft of the injection pump to set the new one the same way. If you are not going to put things back together right away, cut up a plastic garbage bag and make covers for the injectors. Secure the covers with rubber bands or nylon cable ties to keep dirt out of the injectors.

Carefully transfer the injection lines to the new pump. It is possible to cross them up so pay close attention while moving the lines. Transfer the fuel inlet pipe to the new pump and whatever device is mounted on the passenger side of the old injection pump to the new pump.

Get a new injection pump to timing cover gasket and install it over the timing cover studs. Install the new injection pump after setting the driveshaft to match the holes in the gear inside the timing cover. The pump can only be installed one way since it is indexed to the gear. Reinstall the nuts on the studs and set the timing marks to the same position they were when you removed the old injection pump (the lines on top of the timing cover and the flange of the injection pump). Tighten the mounting nuts. Make sure that all the injection lines line up at their injectors, but do not tighten the connections at the injectors yet.

Put the first bolt back into the gear through the oil fill tube hole. Hand tighten it and then turn the crankshaft clockwise as before to install the remaining two bolts. Then, tighten all the bolts securely and resinstall the oil fill tube. Reinstall the throttle connections on the injection pump.

Install a new piece of 1/4" fuel line from the fuel filter to the injection pump (the old one is usuall brittle since it never gets changed). Remove the covers over the opening in the cylinders heads and reinstall the intake manifold using new gaskets.

Reinstall all the injection line clips that were removed and the coolant crossover tube (if you removed it and don't forget to add coolant to the radiator). Reconnect all the wiring on the injection pump, except for the big pink wire. Install a piece of clear tubing on the top of the injection pump and connect it to the return tee in front of it (where you removed the rubber hose from the old injection pump).

Now comes the fun part: Disconnect the glow plug relay connector (two small wires in a connector) from the middle of the relay. The relay is usually on the driver's fender and close to the battery.

Crank the engine, in short bursts, until you see fuel in the clear tubing on top of the injection pump. When you do, reconnect the big pink wire on the injection pump. Continue to crank the engine in short bursts (allowing the starter to rest between cranking cycles) until you see fuel dripping out of the injection lines at the injectors. When you do, tighten the connections where fuel is dripping. When all lines have been tightened, reconnect the glow plug relay connector. Remove the clear tubing on top of the injection pump and reinstall the fuel line that was removed from that location.

Then, try starting the engine normally. If it will not start, try some WD-40 down the intake. You can use ether, but you MUST disable the glow plugs be removing the connector at the relay.

The engine may run rough or stall at first but it should smooth out after all the remaining air comes out of the system.

Torque values are as follows:

Intake manifold: 25-37 ft-lbs
Gear bolts: 13-20 ft-lbs
Injection pump mounting nuts: 25-37 ft-lbs
Injection lines: 15-24 ft-lbs ("wrench tight" is fine)
Injection pump fuel inlet fitting: 15-20 ft-lbs

Feb 17, 2010 | 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cab

1 Answer

I cant find the air intake temperature sensor


on some cars this sensor is located on the air box where your air filter is or on the tube that goes from your air box to the engine

Jun 12, 2009 | 1990 Mazda 626

2 Answers

2002 Mazda Protege acceleration problem


I had the same problem and found that the air admission tube was badly cracked.

Since this let air enter the engine downstream of the mass airflow sensor it is not measured so the engine ECU don't send the proper amount of fuel to provide the right air/fuel mixture. At higher RPM, the vacuum in the tube is enough to close the crack and hide the problem.

I temporarly repaired it with duct tape until I get the part.

Stephane

4cc37fa.jpg

Feb 25, 2009 | 1995 Mazda Protege

1 Answer

1993 ford escort wagon,no electric to injectors


The fuel delivery system uses an electric fuel pump to provide high-pressure fuel to the fuel injectors. The fuel pump is located at the rear of the vehicle, mounted in the fuel tank. It can be accessed by removing the rear seat.

The fuel tubes leading from the fuel tank to the engine are under pressure during vehicle operation. When the engine is turned OFF, the fuel in the fuel tubes remains pressurized for long periods of time to provide quick start-ups. Fuel not used by the fuel injectors during operation is routed back to the fuel tank through the fuel return tube.

The fuel handling components are protected by three fuel filters. A replaceable in-line fuel filter is located inside the engine compartment between the fuel tank and fuel injection supply manifold. A serviceable filter screen is located inside the fuel tank at the fuel pump inlet. A non-serviceable filter screen is incorporated into each fuel injector.


I can get you trouble shooting tips if you want them.
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Nov 18, 2008 | 1993 Ford Escort 4 Door

1 Answer

'87 Iroc fuel port injection. Car won't start. Can't hear fuel pump running when ignition is turned on. Starter turns but engine will not start. Where is fuel pump located on gas tank?


The pump is in the tank. Empty the tank, disconnect the filler and vent tubes, and remove the straps that hold it under the car. Take the strap bolts off the rear end and the front should just slide out. Have a jack ready to help lower and roll out of the way.

Aug 06, 2008 | Chevrolet Camaro Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Need to know factory wiring colors to hook up aftermarket stereo


1990 Mazda 626 Car Stereo Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Red
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Blue/White
Car Radio Ground Wire: N/A
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 4′
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Dash
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/White
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Red
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Yellow
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2′
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Side Shelves
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Red
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Green
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/White
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Green

Aug 03, 2008 | 1990 Mazda 626

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