Question about Lincoln Cars & Trucks
Your electric cooling fan needs to work. It may have 2 speeds and both need to work.
Posted on Aug 13, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2000 Lincoln ls overheating
There is a hose on the side of the coolant resevoir that has a straight blade screwdriver fitting in it. Open the fitting and this will bleed the heads on the LS. Without opening this you will never get the air out of the head, trust me.
Posted on Nov 11, 2008
- If temp guage reads normal, the lack of heat may be due to the Heater Control Valve. Located in front of the radiator. Lower passenger side. A real bugger to replace.
- The plastic cap just over the thermostat is key in re-filling the anti freeze and bleeding air.
Posted on Dec 25, 2008
SOURCE: 2001 Lincoln LS running hot.
Change the thermostat. it is located at the end of the a radiator hose. The hose attaches to the thermostat housing outlet . The thermostat is under the housing. Also have it scanned for a trouble code . It could be the temperature control sensor.
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
Most likely what has happened is that when the thermostat went out the engine over heated and the seal of the valve gaskets to the plastic valve covers got warped and you ahve oil the has dumped into the coil pack area and it has caused 1 or more of the coil packs to go bad as solution #1 has explained. get the gaskets replaced, it sounds like your husband is handy. Its not a difficult procedure just a little time consuming. research the coil packs because at the dealership they are very expensive. People have had alot of good luck buying them on ebay.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
About the only thing left is the radiator. First, and cheapest, is have your radiator cap checked to ensure it is holding to the pressure spec for your car. It may just be cheaper to repalce the cap.
Check the radiator hoses for leaks or kinks.
The core may be plugged and in need of a flush...
Sometimes it's hard to tell if a radiator has enough flow. Here's a couple of quick tests. Although they're not as good as removing the radiator and flow checking it with a machine at the radiator shop, they can be done on the car and are fairly easy.
Feel the radiator fins as the engine warms up. As the thermostat opens, the entire radiator should start to get warm .WATCH OUT FOR THAT FAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If only part of the radiator gets warm, it may be clogged in the cold areas.
Remove the radiator cap with the engine cold. Squeeze the top radiator hose to get a "feel" of how it squeezes under zero pressure. When the thermostat opens and you can see the coolant circulate, replace the cap and IMMEDIATELY rev the engine up (3000 RPM or so) while squeezing the top radiator hose. The hose should remain fairly easy to squeeze. With a clogged radiator, you can actually feel the hose "stiffen up" and get hard to squeeze as the engine speed increases.
HOW TO FLUSH YOUR COOLING SYSTEM
The best flushes are two part: a strong acid and a neutralizer. The one part flushes aren't as strong. The strong flushes get rid of more scale and deposits, but you run the risk of 'eating through" the extremely thin and cheap radiators and heater cores they have today.
Prestone and others make a "backflush adapter" which fits in a heater hose and accepts a garden hose.
No matter how you do it, I'd replace both the top and bottom hoses, bypass and heater hoses, and possibly the thermostat.
When you remove the bottom hose almost all the coolant will drain out of the system. You really shouldn't just dump this coolant: be a little "green" and at least pour it down a drain so the wastewater treatment plant can deal with it before it gets in the groundwater!. The best is to go to your regular mechanic and let him put it in his coolant recycling tank. Mechanics are required by law to have one.
Fill the system with water. If you decide to use flush, add it at this time. Start the engine and let it warm up. It might be necessary to hold your hand over the radiator filler while squeezing the top hose: the thermostat will be closed and may keep the water from circulating. If no water touches the thermostat, it WILL NOT OPEN AND OVER HEAT YOUR VEHICLE!!! I always drill an 1/16 inch hole in the flange of a thermostat to keep it from "air locking" like that: the better thermostats already have a bypass hole for this purpose.
Once it is warm, follow the can directions regarding the flush, if you use it. If you aren't using flush, skip these next few steps.
If iut's a 2 part flush, remove the bottom hose or open the radiator drain **** if it has one. (the drain **** will usually be on the opposite side from the bottom hose inlet on the rad. After it drains, replace the bottom hose and refill the system as outlined above. After it has been refilled, remove the top hose. Get a piece of pipe that fits either over or inside the top hose: this will make this step a lot neater.
Put a hose in the radiator filler and turn it on. Run the engine. Fresh water is being added by you via the radiator, the water in the engine is being pumped out of the top hose. Run water through it until the water exiting the top hose runs clear.
Re-attach the top hose and add the neutralizer, if a 2 part flush. Drain and repeat both of the above steps to remove the neutralizer from the system. If a one part flush, as soon as the water runs clear you are ready for coolant. Drain the system as outlined above.
Reattach all hoses, put in the antifreeze first. Complete the fill with water.
Posted on Dec 12, 2009
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