My Icon 2 stroke line trimmer got tangled in tough grass the result was the motor ran but the head stopped spinning

If someone changed props this can cause this problem. You need to be careful that any adjustment is made for throttle rod and not for carbs if not an injected engine. You do not want to fool around with air mixture. Some throttle cables use threaded linkage and length of rod is adjustment for rpm. Others use a stop screw or hex head to move the throttle lever away from the housings.

try the manufacturer's website .

This is a 2 stroke engine - an outboard motor?

Two strokes are quite robust. The usual mistake people make with these engines (think of chainsaws, lawn mowers and hedge strimmers..) is to use car engine oil instead of the correct two stroke oil. Motor oil is completely incorrect and fouls the spark plug.

The other fault is to mix fuel and two stroke oil in the wrong ratio. Most chainsaws etc .. use a mix of 25:1 Too much oil causes oiling and misfiring of the plug. Too little oil causes excessive and fast wear.

Your engine starts up. That tends to suggest that everything is working ok up to a point.

However, look on the following link which deals with an overheating problem for that engine:

http://www.etecownersgroup.com/post/25hp-etec-problem-6107593

Any motor that runs and then develops sudden stopping symptoms gives me suspicions of fuel delivery problems.
I'm not familiar with your machine, but I would be looking at the fuel filter as probably plugged up.
Wild guess, but sometimes I luck out.
Cheerfuls.

turn motor to top dead centre TDC compression stroke & make shore disy rotor is pointing to no# 1

run away

the EGR valve on this vehicle is electronic and does not have a line or tube going to it. it is located in front of the intake. are you sure you didn't plug the pcv valve tube or some other tube? your knocking noise may be a loose lifter or rocker arm. may want to remove the valve covers and check the torque on the rocker arms.

Its very possible that one of the head gaskets are blown and leaking coolant into the Combustion chamber causing it to bend the rod or rods ! Also is there coolant in the oil ? One trick to manually find the area is to use a wood handle from a mop or broom and place on different point on the engine with your ear against the handle and note any sound differences ?

this is kinda tough
1.remove #1 spark plug. (thats the first pug on the passenger side) its hard to see if u have a smog pump.
2.make shure truck is n nuetral or park, place thumb over the hole where the spark plug goes in the cylender head, bump the startor untill the compressed air blows your thumb back
3. down on the crankshaft there are numbers ranging from 12 degrees btc, "0", and 12 degrees atc.(btc before top dead center, atc after top dead center)
4.clean the crank balancer and get a yellow marker or crayon so that u can see "0" mark. their are notches on the balancer but they are not for timing purposes.
5. after u have established that the air blown out of the spark plug hole is compression side hand turn the engine till the marker on the timing cover and the "0" on the crank lines up "0" on both.(if the timing cover doesnt have numers "0" is the deepest cut notch on the cover.) (to determine if u r infact on compresson stroke or exaust stroke, when the motor blows thumb off, hold thumb tight if no air comes out at thumb u r on exaust stroke u will not b ale to stop the air from coming out at thumb on compression stroke.
6.place dist. cap on dist. the capshould b marked #1 take a marker or paint pin to mark #1 on distributer housing. remove cap.
7.with the crank and timing cover marks at "0" drop the distributer in trying to clock the rotor so that when dist. falls all the way down u have enough room to twist the distributor to line up rotor w/#1 mrk on dist housing (u can bump the motor to get the oil pump shaft rod to align but i usually jab it 5 or 6 times up and down till it aligns and goes down all the way
8.so ur marks r at "0" your distributor is down rotor is pointing at the #1 mark u made on the housing, install the hold down clamp but leve it loose.
9.now there's this little thing called the "spout connector" its usually rite beside the distributer it looks kind like a fuse it is grey if u clean it up. remove the spout connector dont loos it.(some ford have the spout connector over on the drivers finder but most r rite by the distributor.
10. with the spout connector removed start engine if its in time it will start. get timing lite and twist the distributer till the timing is at 10degrees btc at idle w/timing lite.
tighten hold down clamp shutoff engine reinstall "spout connecter and ur good to go. (use caution around the fan and all moving parts while trying to do this this is a pretty advanced job but these instructions should fix u up) .(also the spout connecter when plugged in is wot allows the computer to adjust the timing)

if heads were warped, then yes coolant got into the cylinder/s . so there is your water poured into engine. a bent piston rod cannot be diagnosed, it must be seen. a would run slick 50 into this engine.