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My Icon 2 stroke line trimmer got tangled in tough grass the result was the motor ran but the head stopped spinning

I dismantled the head took the rod out which had not snapped and replaced it only to find that there was a clunking noise from the motor end. Looking up details on the net I would assume either the clutch or Spring require replacing.

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2003 Dodge Caravan Front end clunk.

Had similar problem with 2003 Dodge GC. Replaced the parts you mention + rack & pinion, then to fix the now noticable whining noise, replaced power steering pump and pulley. Fortunately was under an extended warrentee at 46k miles.

Posted on Jul 19, 2008

468 Chevelle
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SOURCE: How Do I Remove & Replace Worn Inner Tie Rod Ends

Cut band clamp. use tie wrap. Special tool to remove inner tie rod. Autozone or others have them to rent. Must align after replacement

Posted on Mar 27, 2009

  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: how difficult to replace inner tie rod end on 06 silverado 2wd?

Not that hard, just spray the tie rod sleeve with WD40 night before and let it soak in. Remove the collier pin and and nut and hammer the old inner tie rod end out of the Track rod with a 5 pound sledge hammer. Remove the inner tie rod end from the sleeve and don't forget to mark the distance so you can place the new tie rod end at the same length. Reinstall the inner tie rod end to the Track rod and tighten the nut and replace the collier pin with a new one. Grease the fitting and go for a test drive, if the truck does not wonder then your good to go with out a alignment. Good luck and hope this helps, Note, make sure you have to right inner tie rod ends. Each side has different thread rotations.

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Dodge Durango clunking noise in front end can

With the information given this is not a sure solution. Questions that need to be asked is when does this happen, turning at slow speedm high speed, when hitting a pot hole etc? Since you have replaced a lot of things already, assuming you have NEW good quality parts so you did not replace bad parts with new bad parts i would definitelu check the pitman arm. This runs from the stering gear to the tierod. It can give you some good clunks while steering, especially at low speed when there is a lot of resistance. Check it by having someone turning the steering wheel when watchin/feeling it.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

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SOURCE: 2003 GMC Yukon- Rear wiper stopped working.

I have a how to tip for exactly this same problem with 2005 Tahoe. Do a fixya search for FIX 2005 TAHOE REAR WIPER.

Posted on May 14, 2010

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If someone changed props this can cause this problem. You need to be careful that any adjustment is made for throttle rod and not for carbs if not an injected engine. You do not want to fool around with air mixture. Some throttle cables use threaded linkage and length of rod is adjustment for rpm. Others use a stop screw or hex head to move the throttle lever away from the housings.

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I have a 2013 evinrude etec 25 hp. It has only had less than 2 tanks of fuel ran through it. I took it out today and it would start but wouldn't stay running.

This is a 2 stroke engine - an outboard motor?

Two strokes are quite robust. The usual mistake people make with these engines (think of chainsaws, lawn mowers and hedge strimmers..) is to use car engine oil instead of the correct two stroke oil. Motor oil is completely incorrect and fouls the spark plug.

The other fault is to mix fuel and two stroke oil in the wrong ratio. Most chainsaws etc .. use a mix of 25:1 Too much oil causes oiling and misfiring of the plug. Too little oil causes excessive and fast wear.

Your engine starts up. That tends to suggest that everything is working ok up to a point.

However, look on the following link which deals with an overheating problem for that engine:

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Jet ski is "hard stopping"

Any motor that runs and then develops sudden stopping symptoms gives me suspicions of fuel delivery problems.
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Dec 24, 2013 | 1986 Ford F150 SuperCab

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Hello, my wife overheated my 04 Durango 4.7 to the max until it shut down on it's got a constant knocking sound but I can't tell what area of motor it's coming from.what could of broke.

Its very possible that one of the head gaskets are blown and leaking coolant into the Combustion chamber causing it to bend the rod or rods ! Also is there coolant in the oil ? One trick to manually find the area is to use a wood handle from a mop or broom and place on different point on the engine with your ear against the handle and note any sound differences ?

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1 Answer

We took it apart and replaced the timming chain and the distributor was taken out and engine was turned over by mistake. Now how do we get it back in time.

this is kinda tough
1.remove #1 spark plug. (thats the first pug on the passenger side) its hard to see if u have a smog pump.
2.make shure truck is n nuetral or park, place thumb over the hole where the spark plug goes in the cylender head, bump the startor untill the compressed air blows your thumb back
3. down on the crankshaft there are numbers ranging from 12 degrees btc, "0", and 12 degrees atc.(btc before top dead center, atc after top dead center)
4.clean the crank balancer and get a yellow marker or crayon so that u can see "0" mark. their are notches on the balancer but they are not for timing purposes.
5. after u have established that the air blown out of the spark plug hole is compression side hand turn the engine till the marker on the timing cover and the "0" on the crank lines up "0" on both.(if the timing cover doesnt have numers "0" is the deepest cut notch on the cover.) (to determine if u r infact on compresson stroke or exaust stroke, when the motor blows thumb off, hold thumb tight if no air comes out at thumb u r on exaust stroke u will not b ale to stop the air from coming out at thumb on compression stroke. dist. cap on dist. the capshould b marked #1 take a marker or paint pin to mark #1 on distributer housing. remove cap.
7.with the crank and timing cover marks at "0" drop the distributer in trying to clock the rotor so that when dist. falls all the way down u have enough room to twist the distributor to line up rotor w/#1 mrk on dist housing (u can bump the motor to get the oil pump shaft rod to align but i usually jab it 5 or 6 times up and down till it aligns and goes down all the way ur marks r at "0" your distributor is down rotor is pointing at the #1 mark u made on the housing, install the hold down clamp but leve it loose. there's this little thing called the "spout connector" its usually rite beside the distributer it looks kind like a fuse it is grey if u clean it up. remove the spout connector dont loos it.(some ford have the spout connector over on the drivers finder but most r rite by the distributor.
10. with the spout connector removed start engine if its in time it will start. get timing lite and twist the distributer till the timing is at 10degrees btc at idle w/timing lite.
tighten hold down clamp shutoff engine reinstall "spout connecter and ur good to go. (use caution around the fan and all moving parts while trying to do this this is a pretty advanced job but these instructions should fix u up) .(also the spout connecter when plugged in is wot allows the computer to adjust the timing)

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if heads were warped, then yes coolant got into the cylinder/s . so there is your water poured into engine. a bent piston rod cannot be diagnosed, it must be seen. a would run slick 50 into this engine.

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