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Replaced starter car is trying to turn over but acts like dead battery battery is fully charged

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: Fully charged battery, starter just gives loud click. will run when not in car and hooked up to battery via jumper leads

check the starter solenoid

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

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Honest Dan
  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Ford Taurus won't start

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Posted on Jul 02, 2009

honeymokey
  • 3113 Answers

SOURCE: 97 Oldsmobile LSS Won't Start.

You need to replace the upper intake manifold. The coolant will get on top of the pistons and they will not fire. Take all of the plugs out and turn over to get the coolant out and put new ones back in after the new manifold is put on. You can break the starter housing if you don't get the coolant out. A common problem with this engine but the new manifold has been re-designed to last longer.

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

  • 113 Answers

SOURCE: replaced starter in 97 lumina no power

check your fudes under the hood and under drivers side dash

Posted on Sep 05, 2009

  • 74 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Pontiac Vibe with 110,000 miles. Over a three

When you say the battery has a full charge, what voltage are you reading? 13.2 volts for a 12 volt battery (2.2v per cell x 6 cells). The solenoid is the usual suspect. My dad had a truck that occasionally wouldn't start and he wacked the starter solenoid with a crescent wrench and then the engine would turn over fine. The facts are that the solenoid is nothing more than a moving contact big enough to carry all the juice the battery can dish out. Over time the contacting surfaces wear away. The worn away contact material doesn't escape the housing, so the solenoid housing fills with dust. Dust impedes the movement of the contact. Wack the solenoid with something like a hammer or wrench like my dad did. One thing though - be careful not to short out anything or hit hard enough to dent the housing. If the wack does the trick, then thank my dad...

Posted on Dec 13, 2009

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Sounds like a battery connection,try this ,turn the headlights on,have someone watch or whatever,try to start it,if the lights go out,it's a poor connection(probably at the battery) if they stay on,it's a starter issue.

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I turn the key to on, then try to crank it over but everything dies not ever a click i have power to the alternator, starter, fully charged battery checked all fuses????? im lost


That sound like a bad connection from the battery. Could be at the battery or the other end of the cables. Possibly an inline fuse on the ignition wire to the starter blown but you wouldn't lose everything you would just lose the ability for the starter to turn over. Also possible you have a battery reading fully charged but with a dead cell. Have you tried getting a reading from it while someone cranks it for you? Or even turning the lights on. If they go out instead on dim the battery has a dead cell.

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My 2003 KiA sedona,acts like the battary wants to die and then suddenly it starts, has been doing this for 3 days.


1st: Battery needs to be checked (no weak or dead cells) then fully charged.
2nd: If battery is good and fully charged, the problem could be excessive amp draw from the starter, a starter draw test would determine if the starter is drawing too much battery power.

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Truck just makes a clicking sound when turning the key. battery is fully charged


ACTUALLY I HAVE A 2004 FORD EXPEDITION WITH THE SAME PROBLEM AND ITS YOUR STARTER GO OUT AND HIT IT WITH A HAMMER A COUPLE TIMES IT WILL START THEN DRIVE IT TO THE SHOP CAUSE IT NEED TO BE REPLACED THERE IS A DEAD SPOT IN THE STARTER

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make sure that your battery is fully charge if it is. you have a starter problem and that should take care of you problem. let me know if i helped you. thank you.

Aug 11, 2009 | 1994 Oldsmobile 88

1 Answer

Unable to crank after sitting


Interesting problem. There are a number of things that can contribute to these symptoms: Battery not holding charge, charging system not working, bad/corroded battery and/or starter cable connections, and of course something draining the battery when the ignition is off.

Before doing these tests, make sure the battery is fully charged by disconnecting it from the car and charging it 24 hours with an external battery charger.

Is the charging system (alternator) working? Accords have an idiot light, not an ammeter/voltmeter, so it could be your car isn’t charging and the indicator light is burned out. Connect a voltmeter to a fully charged battery and observe the voltage (should be about 13.8 volts). Now start the car and observe the voltage again, should be higher than before (around 15 volts). If the voltage doesn’t increase at least slightly either the alternator belt is loose and slipping or the alternator is bad.

Are the battery terminals tight/clean? Any corrosion on the terminals or wires? How about the end that connects to the starter? How about the ground wire to chassis? Any corrosion could produce an intermittent connection problem that acts like a dead battery.

The battery may be new…but is it good? Charge it, connect it and confirm the car starts. Then DISCONNECT the battery, let sit 24 hours, re-connect and try to start. If the battery now acts dead maybe it is bad. Exchange under warranty.

And last, something is discharging the battery. First question, do you have any non-Honda add-ons like an aftermarket audio system with a power amp? Audio power amps have a direct wire to the battery for greater power, if the amp isn’t turning off then you’ll have a drain. Try disconnecting such equipment and see if your problem goes away. If that’s not it connect an ammeter in series with the battery with the ignition OFF and start pulling fuses one by one until you find what’s causing the drain.

Hope this helps!

Jan 27, 2009 | 1988 Honda Accord 4 Door

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