Question about Honda Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 94 honda accord flash code =17
Code 17 Vehicle speed sensor
Usually associate with a bad or disconnected Speedometer cable. Rumors have it also associated to fuses on the Hazard lights/Turn signal.
Posted on Oct 04, 2008
Did u try turning the steering wheel slightly in either direction? The steering wheel can 'jam' causing the key to seem stuck in the ignition. Simply turning the steering wheel a bit relieves the pressure and the key will turn. Let me know if this works for u
Posted on Nov 29, 2008
SOURCE: 2004 Honda Accord Euro. Central
I am a mechanic and had the same problem with a 2005 Acord that I purchased couple of months ago. Contact through the trade provided little help. The problem arose during a week that we in Adelaide, South Australia had a record o 40+ degrees centigrade heat. I noticed the drop knob slightly moving when the immobiliser was activated, but the drivers door failed to lock. Key locking would lock all doors however.
The cost of a door actuator from a Honda dealer was $185.00 (Aus), about $250 (US). The spare parts guy told me they had them in stock and sold a number of them. As a result I decided to find out whether the actuator was in fact faulty. I susequently removed the door lock and actuator assembly from the door. (A fiddly type job). The actuator assembly is in a plastic sealed assembly. By using a lot of patience and a box cutter I was able to cut around the assembly and then carefully lever the plastic housing apart. This revealled the small electric motor (similar to a slot car motor) that drove a worm and wheel assembly and a system of cams that actuated the door lock system. I found on dismantling the electric motor that the armature was coated with grease from the wormwheel /cam assembly that is mounted above the motor when installed in the vehicle. I cleaned the armature and brushes using superfine wet and dry carborundum paper, undercut and cleaned out the two armature segments of all remaining grease with a solvent. The motor was then tested with 12 volts and found to be ok. I then reinstalled the motor and glued the housing back together. It now works fine. I believe the housing was either initially overfilled with lubricant or that the high ambient temperature caused the grease to melt and flow into the elecric motor contaminating the motor. (There is no seal between the gearbox and the electric motor). The job took a few hours from start to finish but I saved the cost of purchasing the part and didn't let it beat me.
Cheers and beers
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
I had the same problem on my '98 V70 - my rear liftgate would not open. The "rear lift door open light" was on. I guess it was some kind of electronic problem in the locking mechanism. But it could have been something else like the metal bar that extends from the outside handle down to the mechanism had slipped off (unusual design seems like it should be connected instead of just sitting on a plastic latch handle) or maybe it was bent because this car had been hit in the rear as I found out looking around in there. Anyway, I took off the interior panel and inside handle. There was a large torx bolt that had to be removed if I was going to replace the mechanism. I later found out that there were two more once I got the gate open. I took a photo of the way everything was connected so I would have a record just in case I needed it. I bought a new lock mechanism. There is a thin piece of plastic down near the bottom on the mechanism that somewhat blocks a screwdriver or other tool from reaching in and opening the door that way. So I had to start removing things. I disconnected the power first. I removed the two screws I could reach which let the part that was connected to the connector be removed out of the way. I removed the metal bars that went from the outside door handle and the lock down to the mechanism. I still couldn't reach where I needed to. So since I had the part I began to slowly break away pieces from the mechanism. They are plastic so they broke off without much trouble but it did take a little work. Finally I reached down to the thin plastic part I referred to earlier that covers the part that unlocks your liftgate and pulled it enough off of it to get access to the release. One last try with a screwdriver let me push the actual release and the door opened! There was much rejoicing. Then I removed the old and replaced with the new. Reconnected everything checked and rechecked. It's working so far. That's how I did it.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
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