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Need to know how to take the 3point lift cylinder apart for rebuilding

On the 3 point hitch there are 2 external cylinders how do you get the rod out of the barrel?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

warlock61
  • 659 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 Ford F350 5spd. distributor cap wiring diagram/layout!!!

1) #1-4 pass side front to rear #5-8 drivers side front to rear
2) 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
3)#1 is usually marked on cap wires go ccw
4) TDC #1 cyl you must remove the shorting plug before timing
it is located by the dist plug or the ignition module small gray plug

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

StormStrikes
  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: TORQUE SETTINGS ISUZU RODEO FOUR CYLINDER

I dont know the specific answer for your question, but I own a 1995 Rodeo and there is an online community you could probably check out that Im sure would have the answer for you.

Check out www.planetisuzoo.com, sign up and post your question there. There are several knowledgeable people there and some good information as well.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

mrgreenz
  • 962 Answers

SOURCE: fitting new ignition barrel series 3 1996 316i

It is a very small hole in the switch cylinder. About the size of a paperclip or maybe a bit thicker. It is to reset the ignition. If that does not work. you may have to replace the switch. try using aa paperclip or someting to push into the hole. Being vcareful not to force it too much. So it won't break inside.

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

michigan man
  • 3533 Answers

SOURCE: The liftgate will not stay open. There is fluid showing below the support cylinder on the drivers side. I believe the cylinders are shot and need instructions on replacing ford freestyle lift gate sup

for the most part there are small clips top and bottom of the cylinders use a small screw driver and pry the clips out and remove be sure to put a broom handle under the hatch or have someone to hold it up why you are replaceing them so the lift gate does not fall on you.

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: engine misfire #2 cylinder need to know running order

cyl 2 would be the second one fromt the front on the right. all locations are perceived from sitting in drivers seat.

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

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1 Answer

Is it normal to hear a squeak from the number 4 cylinder rod bearing as I manually rotate engine crank? I have the front end and oil pan off.


make sure that the squeak is not from dry rings in the bore
put oil down the cylinder and rotate the crank
if it goes it could be just dry and need no further checks but if it is in a bearing then it is serious and needs replacing
turning a crank should produce a dry scraping noise as the pistons move up and down the bores but certainly not other noise

Nov 10, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

NEED DIAGRAM FOR LOCATIONS OF CRANKSHAFT PULLY,OIL SLINGER AND SPRING.FOR 1983 MAZDA 2.2L DIESEL


Here is the procedure:-


  1. Remove setscrew from side of cylinder block.


  2. Remove oil pipe attaching bolts.


  3. Remove oil pump and strainer.
TIMING GEAR COVER



  1. Remove timing gear cover to case attaching bolts.


  2. Remove timing gear cover and gasket.

CAMSHAFT, CRANKSHAFT, IDLER & INJECTION PUMP GEARS



  1. Remove oil slinger and washers from crankshaft snout.
Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove crankshaft timing gear, Fig. 3.


  1. Position a clean rag between camshaft and idler gears, then remove cam gear lock bolt and washers.


  2. Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove cam gear from camshaft, Fig. 3.


  3. Remove idler gear to spindle retaining nuts and washers, then remove idler gear and spindle assemblies.


  4. Remove injection pump drive gear.


  5. Remove timing gear case to cylinder block attaching bolts, then the timing case.



CAMSHAFT




  1. Remove tappets from cylinder block.


  2. Remove camshaft thrust plate to cylinder block retaining bolts and washers, then pull camshaft from block.



PISTON & CONNECTING ROD




  1. Remove connecting rod bearing cap retaining nuts and bolts, then separate bearing cap from connecting rod.


  2. Using the wooden handle end of a hammer, push the piston and connecting rod assembly outward until piston rings clear cylinder bore. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly through top of cylinder block.


  3. To separate piston from connecting rod, remove piston pin retaining clips, then press pin from piston using a suitable driver.



CRANKSHAFT




  1. Remove rear oil seal cap retaining bolts, then the cap and seal.


  2. Remove main bearing cap to cylinder block retaining bolts, then the main bearing caps and thrust washers.


  3. Lift crankshaft from cylinder block.

Mar 26, 2015 | Mazda Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Engine rebuild


Bummer. Usually you need to drop the oil pan, pull the rod and piston out, replace the sleeve, and use a ring comprssor to get the piston back into the cylinder and then put it all back together EXACTLY how it came apart including position on the sleeves, rods and bearings. I have not done this on a VW but I do not see this being much different than any other car that I have worked on. No matter what it will be a huge pain in the ***.

Jun 06, 2013 | Volkswagen Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Jeep Grand Cherokee 1994


Is it the back hatch? Can you pull the rod on the broke side & pull handle at the same time?

May 19, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Valve settings


- Pull the hand brake and put transmission in neutral.
- Remove spark plug cords.
- Remove the spark plugs.
- Remove the Tappet cover
- Lift up the left front wheel.
Cylinder number 1 is toward the pulleys and belts side.
- Rotate the crankshaft anticlockwise with socket and extension rod and bring the valve tappets (intake and exhaust) No. 4 cylinder on dancing position.
NOTE: THERE ARE OTHER WAYS ALSO TO ADJUST THE FOUR VALVES AT A TIME. BUT AS DIY FOLLOW THE FOLLOWING METHOD TO AVOID ANY CONFUSION.
- Adjust the valve clearance of number 1 cylinder.
Valve clearance:
Intake 0.18 - 0.22 (cold) Exhaust 0.25 - 0.28 (cold)
- Rotate the crankshaft anticlockwise to bring the valves of cylinder 2 on dancing position and adjust the valves of No. 3 cylinder.
- Similarly rotate the crankshaft to bring the valves of No. 1 cylinder on dancing position and adjust the valves of No. 4.
- Rotate the crankshaft anticlockwise to bring the valves of cylinder No. 3 on dancing position and adjust the valve clearance of No. 2 cylinder.

May 04, 2013 | 1999 Honda Civic

3 Answers

1969 buick electra 430 engine do not no were #1 is on distributor cap and when piston is at TDC should it be pointed at #1 on the compression stroke.


STANDING IN FRONT OF CAR FACING ENGINE.NUMBER 1 FIRING POSITION ON DISRIBUTOR CAP WOULD BE AT 8 OCLOCK POSITION.THEN AFTER 1 ON DISTRIBUTOR CAP 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 THATS SPARK PLUG WIRES LOCATION ON DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND FIRING ORDER WHICH IS 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 CYLINDERS FACING YOU ON PASSENGER SIDE IS 2 4 6 8 AND CYLINDERS ON DRIVER SIDE FACING YOU 1 3 5 7 THE TIMING MARK ON CRANKSHAFT BALANCER TO TIMING COVER SCALE SHOULD BE ON ZERO.

May 17, 2011 | Buick Electra Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I need information on how to replace (or service) the door latch mechanism on my merc. I have realigned the door (and realigned the striker rod) and it will still not close. The latching system does not...


Removal
  1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).
  1. Remove front door trim panel (23942) and watershield from front door (20124).
  1. Mark the location of the bolt retaining front door glass run front retainer (21572). Remove the bolt.
  1. Check all rod connections against the appropriate illustration. Correct any disconnected or loose connections and check operation before replacing parts.
  1. Remove power door lock actuator (218A42).
  1. Disconnect the rods from the front door latch (21812). The front door latch remote control link (21940) and the latch-to-lock cylinder rod cannot be removed at this time because of the rod's end configuration. Remove wiring from clip on front door latch shield.
  1. Remove front door latch control cylinder rod (22134) from the door lock cylinder (21985).
  1. Remove front door latch remote control and link (21818).
  1. Remove the front door latch retaining screws. Disconnect the door open warning lamp switch (14018) if so equipped. Remove the front door latch from the front door.
  1. NOTE: Do not damage anti-theft shield.
    Remove anti-theft shield from the front door latch.
  1. Remove front door latch remote control link, front door latch control cylinder rods and door open warning lamp switches from front door latch where applicable.
Installation
  1. Follow removal procedure in reverse order.
  1. Tighten front door latch retaining screws 4-8 Nm (36-70 lb-in).


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Item Description 1 Front Door Latch Control Cylinder Rod 2 Front Door Latch Remote Control Link 3 Bushing 4 Door Latch Shield 5 Power Door Lock Actuator 6 Front Door Latch Control Cylinder Rod 7 Front Door Latch 8 Latch (1 Req'd) 9 Screws (2 Req'd)

Feb 13, 2011 | 1997 Mercury Cougar XR7

3 Answers

I have an 01 Chevy 3500 and have a lot of blowby. My mechanic says that I have 3 cylinders that are ready to misfire, and that i have oil rings that are bad. Could that be the reason for the excess blowby?


Yes! Bad (worn) oil rings will allow more oil than normal to enter the combustion chamber and fire along with the fuel mixture. This is called blow-by and will usually present itself visibly as smoke out the tail pipe.

At this point, a ring job (at the minimum) is probably needed. Excess cylinder wear could require a bore to the next standard bore size (Usually .010" Larger on the ID).

Sounds like your mechanic is pointing in the right direction!

Feb 01, 2011 | Chevrolet C3500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Slk 230


The hydraulic cylinder lines are designed to not be removable from the cylinder. There have been people who have done it, me, but it requires redesigning the attachment point. Not for the novice. If you are replacing the part, the new one comes with the lines attached. You must remove the plastic interior in the trunk and disconnect the lines at the pump. If you are only rebuilding the cylinder and reinstalling it, it can be done without removing the lines from the car. You will rebuild it sitting in the passenger seat. you will need the replacement O-rings sold on Ebay.

Bad news, if you are experiencing one cylinder leaking, it is very likely the other two that raise the top will begin leaking very soon. This is because all three cylinders use a rod seal made of the same material that degrades over time. The two remaining cylinders (of five) that raise the trunk almost never go bad because they were originally designed with the O-rings.

Costs:

-New cylinders run $300 to $400 apiece
-About $40 to $60 to have your cylinders rebuilt, apiece
-Around $10 to $20 to buy the O-rings on Ebay

Mark Andrews

Aug 13, 2008 | 2001 Mercedes-Benz SLK-Class

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