Hi End float tolerance refers to the allowable movement of the rear wheel, when jacked up, in and out ie. when the wheel is pushed towards the axle and pulled away from the axle, the movement on my XJ is about 2mm is this within the manufacturers specification. many thanks
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How did you come to the conclusion that rear axle is seized .
The reason I ask is axles don't seize .Bearings can but not in rear ends the tolerance isn't tight enough .Gears can brake 1 tooth can snap and lodge in the pinion or ring gear that could lock it up .
You didn't supply a lot of information in your question but this must be a rear wheel drive vehicle .And your not talking engine so I assuming that it runs.You also didn't mention the transmission auto or standard witch could bring clutch issues into play for a standard .
The best thing you can do at this point is jack the rear end up put it on stands remove the drive shaft and see what turns if the wheels spin freely its not the rear end its clutch or transmission if not then its the rear end witch you would be better off replacing as a unit .
Arn't vehicles fun
May be fan belt, check tension by looking 2 c if arrows r within tolerance on the belt tensioner. If arrows r beyond tolerance, replacement is necessary. Or u could push up&dwn on both front fenders (one at a time) 2 hear 4 ur noises. Good luck.
Most likely your differential ring gear carrier bearings are worn and the alignment of the pinion gear to the ring gear is out of tolerance. If your truck is full time 4x4 from the factory there is also a good chance that the rear differential housing is also worn where one of the carrier bearings (left side most likely) is mounted. This is a fairly difficult repair to do at home due to the close tolerances that need to be measured to make sure the two gears mesh properly. If the differential housing is damaged then the entire rear axle should be replaced.
There has been a movement of the ABS detector on 1 of the wheels, allowing the AIR gap between the Detector, and the Exciter ring to vary. Or the supply cable to the detector, may have been Chafed, or has a Bad connection to the Harness coupling. 1. Check the condition of the Detector wiring, and around the securing clips. 2. Check the Wheel Bearing end float [ movement when levering the wheel in and out, in the North and South positions] If this is correct, then go to 3. 3. Remove each front and rear wheel in turn, and check and clean the Exciter Ring, and Detector probe in the Spindle mount, and the Gap between the Ring and Detector. Some Models of Vehicle have a preset fixed gap. others are adjustable. On the adjustable, a good rule of thumb, is to be just to be able to see Daylight between the two.
Could be a couple of things. Without knowing the mileage or the model of rear axle of the beast in question, I can only offer suggestions...
The differential on the rear axle may be on its way out, i.e. the ring and pinion gears are out of tolerance. They usually whine just before the mustard comes off the hotdog. A mechanic can check the backlash for you.
You could have a bearing going bad. This is somewhat easier to diagnose in your driveway by jacking the rear of the truck up until the rear tire just leaves the ground, and then picking up on the wheel by hand. In other words, try to shake it a bit. If there's any 'play', you probably have a bearing on it way out. Do this for BOTH sides.
My last suggestion would be to check the U-joints (universal) in your driveshaft. Crawl underneath and try to twist the driveshaft, push on it, pull on it, shake the heck out of it. If you have a U-joing going bad you will notice some obviously abnormal movement, and probably hear a clinking or clunking sound.
That is normal ... the ends of the axles contact a center pin that keeps them in place. If you were to remove the pin you would be able to push the axles in and remove the clips that keep them from sliding out.
Sounds like a hub bearing. Jack up the front end and place a hand at the top and bottom of each front tire. Try to make the top or bottom of the wheel move inward and outward. This shouldn't move very much at all. The tolerance is measured in .000 of an inch. So if there is any significant movement, the hub bearing has failed. Another good part to check are your ball joints. If the hub isn't your problem, drop me a line and I'll tell you the procedure for checking the ball joints.
Had something like this with my much loved 6 cylinder Camry. Turned out to be a wheel bearing. You can check by raising the rear wheel off the ground with the jack and if you can move the wheel in and out, you need a wheel bearing. And it is a safety issue - when bad enough the wheel can come off the car, definitely a life changing experience. Check both rear wheels, just take a few minutes of your time. Don't believe the Elantra or any other front wheel drive car has a differential, those are used in rear wheel drive vehicles.
OK in my world, I call that endplay. Your axle is not pressed into the bearing. It actually can slide in and out a bit. The axle is retained by a "c" clip inside the differential. Yes they do allow endplay to prevent the clip from wearing out. Yours is normal.